Roaming Riomaggiore

Hotel Margherita is the largest hotel I have stayed in thus far.

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It is sleek and modern with 31 rooms. I actually feel as though I have “sold out”. I feel that my money is benefiting a company and not a family, as my other stays have. But as overall budget comes into play, their rate was considerably better than our old hotel right across the “street”.
Hotel Margherita offers a huge breakfast buffet in the mornings complete with local baked goods (so…I am benefiting Laura and her famiglia right?). The only drawback of the generous breakfast is the 6 in one “cafe” machine…kinda feel like I am at Jek’s.

20130704-101837.jpg My new “office”….here at Hotel Margherita, the wifi works indoors and out….wooohoooo!

20130704-101926.jpg Directly behind my office.

20130704-102033.jpg The street to the right of my office.

October of 2011, 2 of the 5 villages were devastated by a flood. Many, many business in Monterosso and virtually all in Vernazza were destroyed. After a busy, tiring summer tourist season, the locals had to survive, assess and rebuild. If you were not aware of this tragedy, you would not even notice. However, you would likely be annoyed at the construction going on around you during your holiday. Knowing helps us to appreciate and understand. Eduardo, who seems to be the hotel manager, stands out on the terrace frustrated with the Italian governments timing. He stands shaking his head wondering aloud (but under his breath) why this road rebuilding could not have waited until October. “It is July, ” he says “and this town relies on the tourist. But with the Italian government, if-a you-a complain….there can be more trouble. So…it eeesa best to just watch.” “Still-a…I do not-a understand-a. Eeeat-a is July!” I assure him, this kind of government timing is everywhere.

After breakfast, I decide to go on a hike to the neighboring town, Vernazza.

20130704-103221.jpg Since I have been here, this man has not left his perch.

20130704-103335.jpg The trailhead begins past the hotel nestled on the side of the mountain.

20130704-103458.jpg Renting one of these…floating fun…looks like a fab idea. Blaine and Dalton can peddle, while Avery and I slide and sun….somehow I think it would work a bit differently…

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20130704-103647.jpg But alas….this trail (and many others) are closed for maintenance. Supposedly this one will reopen Friday.

So I regroup as I walk.

20130704-103801.jpg This little restaurant, Il Casello, is a family favorite. I learned last night from a guy wearing a UT shirt that the owner of one of the restaurants up on this cliff, has a home in Austin. I figure I need to check it out. And yes indeed, Bacco does live in Austin in the winters. He has married an American and his children go to school there. They live in Steiner Ranch. He says the activities for the children are much better and very organized. He also mentions that the houses are much bigger, “If it rains for a few days, the kids-a can stay inside.” Things we do not think about. I tell him goodbye promising during my stay I will come to eat, a couple of times.
It was funny, as I was talking with him, an American man came up to pay. The bill was 20 something and he only had 100. Bacco did not have change so he asked the man if he could come back and pay later. Nice.

20130704-104218.jpg Dormant fishing nets.

20130704-104315.jpg No Bocce today? che succede?

chiesa di San Giovanni Battista

<img src=”https://girlinroam.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130704-145716.jpg” alt=”20130704-145716.jpg” class=”alignnone size-full chiesa di San Giovanni Battista

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20130704-150035.jpg I think this photograph of the statue of Saint Theresa would make a beautiful prayer card.

I decide to begin a longer hike up through the mountains. I have no intention of doing the full 4 hour hike, but I begin…but first a bit of nourishment. Anchovies or acciughe are a seafood staple around here. I give a stuffed one a try.

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20130704-150328.jpg Very good.
I see people walking around with little folded cones full of these fried…I will try that before I leave.
My walk begins going all the way up Via Roma, which is the street my hotel is on.
Although I cannot say I “enjoyed” the entirely uphill trek, I consider that it balances out some of my food intake.

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At the beginning of the trail, I noticed a few boxes of necessities. I wondered how that poor person will get their purchases up to their place. A few moments later, this guy comes down with his little, loud machine….that’s how…a tiny, little flatbed. People LIVE like this.

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As you can tell the day was a bit cloudy. It is funny how the locals apologize for it. I welcome the cool, damp air.
During my “hike” there is a woman about 40 yards ahead of me. Every once and a while, she stops, panting and resting as I am. I am sure my presence is pushing her on a bit…like I am, she is trying to save face. About an hour into the hike and nowhere near a point of leveling out…here she comes starting back down. “No more?” I ask. She says that her kids are at the beach but this seemed more enjoyable to her. “Nice views but it is a bit heavy, no?” She says she has a ferry to catch. I walk on another 20 minutes or so then think…maybe I should catch a ferry as well.
I go back to the room, shower, change and nap (my 2nd of the trip). I think since the coastal trail is to open on Friday, what have I got to prove?
After my nap, I decide I am ready for another train ride. The trains between the 5 towns run frequently and cost less than two euro.
Eduardo recommends a bar in Riomaggiore that has the best aperitivo in the 5 towns. He says it is on top of a “how you say-a….rock-a” and has an amazing view. Sounds good to me.
Riomaggiore it is!

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20130704-151654.jpg A mural at Riomaggiore station depicting life in the Cinque Terre.
Eduardo had told me the bar was to the right of the train station up some steps. Before I go there, I take a left into the historic city center.

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20130704-151950.jpg Instead of more pane, I choose a fritto di gamberi e calamari cone.

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20130704-152135.jpg The calamari was the best and obviously freshest I have ever had…I make “cone” the theme of my evening.

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20130704-152300.jpg This little eggplant guy cracks me up.
When I enter the stand to buy some cherries (in a cone), the owner says the eggplant “ees-a his-a friend-a”.

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20130704-152523.jpg Although Via dell’ Amore is closed, I walk to the gates.

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Via dell’ Amore was named after young lovers from different villages would meet here. The trail was created in the 1920’s after the 2nd train line came. Before that, villagers rarely married outside their own. The trail was established as a meeting point for boys and girls from the neighboring towns. A journalist coined the pathway’s now established name, Pathway of Love.
And while I visited….a young couple was having their wedding portraits done.

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20130704-153412.jpg These are my no doubt, much cheaper version!!
Finally I reach the bar Eduardo had suggested, Bar and Vini, a pie’ de Ma’. And what a wonderful recommendation it was!

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20130704-153732.jpg There it is out on the rock, as seen from the train station.
After my wine, I walk down to the marina.

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I return home to Monterosso for dessert and then it is off to bed.

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Ritorno a Monterosso

So since my travels have gone perfectly thus far, I though I would fill you in on a few things that made me nervous yesterday.
As I mentioned, yesterday was a travel day. The plan was to leave Chiusi around 10:00, train to Firenze, train to La Spezia, train to Monterosso. With all these connections, I wondered if all could go smoothly.

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The Chiusi stazione was definitely my kind of station; clean and free restrooms. The downside was there was not as much people watching, but that is an upside too…not as many people to watch out for.

Travel Tip #1- For train travel days, may I suggest a nice, lightweight travel pant. Mine, Isaac Mizrahi for Target, seersucker, circa 2002. And a nice, wrinkle-free button down shirt. ( Just make sure the shirt’s buttons button securely,,,as being strapped and crossed with luggage….things may shift in transit…Prego Chiusi! ) Nice enough enough to look sharp but not calling attention to yourself…unless of course your shirt unbuttons….

I boarded the train and got myself a seat that allowed the Ferrari to be parked right next to me.
We had been moving for about 15 minutes when I thought perhaps that was all too easy. Was I on the correct train? I asked a group of young students, english speaking, where they were headed. They named a place and I am sure the look on my face gave me away. One of the girls asked, “Where are you going?” I said Firenze. She said that yes this was indeed the correct train. Shweew! Two hours later and molto stops, I arrived in Firenze.

Back in 2007 (I believe) Avery, Dalton, my mom and I came to Europe. We did not stay in Firenze in the true sense of the word “stay”, but we did stay at the train station for quite some time waiting for our connection. We have some funny memories here. For what seemed like hours, we watched a very drunk (picture one of those plastic, segmented toys on a base connected by string. You push the bottom of the base, the string slacks and the person or animal slumps. You release…and it magically comes back to attention) homeless man and his pigeons. This amused, frightened and disgusted us for hours.
I had about an hour between trains, so I tried to look purposeful as I waited. Although the polizia were patrolling…

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I think it was more of an “interview” process. Here these….residents…prove their purpose by showing they had purchased a carton of juice from one of the kiosk. This seemed to work…

20130703-093937.jpg so they played on. This image brought to mind “The Old Guitarist” by Pablo Picasso.

At one point, I saw “officials” run off two girls, apparently for hassling travelers.

Travel Tip #2- Go to the restroom when you arrive at the station AND then again….no matter if you need to or not…as they post your train. This will, hopefully, prevent you from using the train’s facilities. Worth the 2 euros!

When they posted my train to La Spezia, I walked over to platform 3. There was a train, there was a “conductor” but there was also this guy standing around. When I would approach a car, he would approach, when I would move down, he would move down. When I would stand back, he would enter an empty car and watch through the window. So, I am thinking, “What the heck”. At one point he says, “Signora…La Spezia?” and waves his hand at the train like, “Yes, this is it, welcome.”
I continue to stand around. Finally, an American couple boards and I board along with them. I was sure they were wondering why of all the cars I chose theirs, so I explained. “Good instincts!” the woman said. Oh and when I did board, a woman magically appeared to “help” me with my luggage and then ask for money.

As the train moves along, often the rail attendant comes by to check your ticket. I have been using the same method with each leg of my journeys. I noticed the time before last, the attendant looked and looked at my printed pages, flipping, reading, mumbling… and then he returned it. The woman next to me just shrugged. This time, the attendant asked me which of his many languages did I speak….english (I feel ashamed), he tells me that next time I need to print off the ticket. Although he was very nice, this makes me nervous for my next leg.

Italy is famous for its lovers. Young lovers are everywhere. On benches, in Vespas, in parks, on fountains, on a train in the seat 2 feet across from you….seriously. How many places can I find to stare? At this point, I am thankful I do not understand the language! My theory is that the men live with their mammas so long, they can not bring their girlfriend home, so, the streets (or seats) will do.

Travel Tip #3- Choose a seat facing the direction you are traveling…if not the motion can cause issues. **Take this opportunity to leave the giovani amanti and relocate yourself facing forward.

Out the window, the hills, towns, trees blur by like something from a movie. Village after village is perched into the mountains of this beautiful region. I write down the names of our stops so I can research later. But one I am already familiar with…

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Pure, white marble from the quarries of Carrara is what Michelangelo used to carve his most famous sculptures. A visit to Carrara, a town in northwest Tuscany, allows travelers to see the marble quarries and see the type of tools Michelangelo used in order to transform pieces of rock into artistic treasures.
The American woman I had boarded with kept taking photo after photo. She thought it was snow. I told her about Michelangelo….more photos followed.
During this leg of the trip, more beggars. One would sit for awhile then move to the next group of people and simple whisper noises….Avery would have loved this!! It was definitely creepy.

Travel Tip # 4- Always have either earphones in (thanks Avery) or something to read in front of you. It can create a barrier if needed.

So we finally (2 hours) arrive at where my ticket says I get off. La Spezia but with another “M” name after it. I am the only one moving. The American couple says, “No this is not La Spezia Centrale.” But I say this is what my ticket says, so I de board. The station is closed, there is a man sweeping. I approach him showing him my ticket. He looks at it, regarding it as foreign, and tells me to re board the still sitting train. “But…” Ok , I figure the chances of making another connection here are much less than at a “Centrale”…so I hurriedly hop back on. (hop- read dragging my Ferrari against my already bruised thigh)
I stand in the area between cars knowing the next stop cannot be far. We reached La Spezia Centrale and yes, much more action here. I wait in “information” line, show the attendant my stapled copy of information, he barely looks at it and says something. “Scusi?” I reply. “Due” he snarls “Due”. OK, due at 17:00. I am still nervous. Is this the correct train? Will “the note from my mommy” work? Will I incur a fine (this stretch is notorious for issuing fines to silly travelers)? Do I have time to go buy another ticket…I could go on and on…
I start comparing notes with others standing around…we ALL have a story; this couple missed their train and will try to use their old ticket, this group has no clue, and so on. A nice couple from Australia says, “We’ll all get lost together.” In the meantime, I am scoping out La Spezia and thinking I do NOT want to spend the night here.
A crowd is gathering. The Australian once again declares, “What can happen in 16 minutes?” That is the time of the short ride to Monterosso. He says this as he gives me some sort of blessing or absolution with his ticket in hand. I’ll take whatever I can get…
A train arrives….we ALL board. “Every man for himself” someone adds. I again stay in the area between cars. The 4 steps with Ferrari are not worth it.
During this short ride, we are in tunnels most of the time. At one point we emerge for a fleeting moment and the blue, blue waters of Cinque Terre lift my spirits. I look to the Australian couple, this is their first visit here, and we all smile! With our goal in reach, I share with them some recommendations. This of course makes me miss my famiglia. We have beautiful memories here.

20130703-101645.jpg We have arrived!
But first….another tunnel…this one though, I am familiar with…I know what awaits me on the other side.

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20130703-101754.jpg Monterosso!
First to find the hotel. I walk from the station passing those that are unfamiliar with the layout. Since the 2011 flood, a few things have changed but I walk with confidence.

20130703-101949.jpg Past the hotel I stayed at during my first visit. This was with my mom and brother, Jim. I remember Jim and I enjoying the beach below looking up to the open window where our mom took her riposo. I remember ordering beers on the beach with my toes in the pebbly sand. I remember my first “rapido” panini from Il Castello.

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I see the hotel where mom and I stayed with the kids…and cannot believe it when I realize my new hotel is directly across the street. It looks familiar. I remember admiring it during that stay. So here I am. My home for the next 6 nights.

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20130703-102600.jpg I know a photo of the bathroom might seem…silly…but if you are ever making travel arrangements, it can help with the decision.
As Francesca checks me in, she continues to tell me all my perks that come with my booking. Free wifi, beach towel for days at the beach, wonderful breakfast each morning in the dining area or on the terrace…the people that are checking in after me pay extra for all this…not sure how I swung this, but…ok…

I quickly shower off the grime of the day and hit the streets looking for food (breakfast in Chiusi has long worn off) and memories. Of course, I find both.

20130703-103040.jpg It is funny how people can unknowingly become a part of your experience. How their words or actions can be copied by your family for years to come….”Do they have salads!!?? *&%$@@!!!” this was the spot. This memory is for no one to get or enjoy but Mom, Avery and Dalton…
And then I make the big decision to eat at our favorite restaurant on the first night…bold move.

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I am so disappointed when I read and remember that our favorite dish, gnocchi with gamberetti can only be ordered for 2…but as seems to be the rhythm of this adventure, things go my way. Yolanda says yes, it is possible for just one…for me. Little does she know that it is really to be enjoyed by 4, Mom, Avery, Dalton and myself.

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I remember we ate here twice during our stay. The first time Dalton ordered the spaghetti bolognese…his favorite. I believe we ordered the gnocchi gamberetti for three. When Dalton tasted ours. He loved it and ordered it the next visit. I watch as a mother tries to share a bite of hers to her young son (3 ish) He is reluctant at first,then finally tries it. I watch his eyes light up as he chews. After each following bite he licks his lips…another convert! Avery says if she were ordering her last meal…this would be it.

20130703-104004.jpg I enjoy the piccolo bottle of the areas wine just as mom and I had.
Although I am the 2nd to be seated that evening. When it is time for me to leave, the place is packed and people are waiting. I would love to order the risotto al mare another night, but alas, Yolanda says ” no, questo solo per due”….hhhmmmmm.
My pasta pooch says it is time for a walk.

20130703-104335.jpg I take this one for Blaine.

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20130703-104451.jpg The Nazi pillbox bunker that so intrigued Dalton. When he crossed over these steps to stand on top, the sea would crash over them. His timing, and courage had to be just right.

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20130703-104814.jpg The beach where Dalton played games with the rocks…and presented me with a perfectly shaped heart one I treasure to this day!
As the sunsets, I decide to follow the sound of the music. “Misty” on the violin is coming from the tunnel.

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Him, I tip. What a peaceful ending to a hectic day.
Buonanotte!

Chiusi

I wanted to share more about the Tuscan town of Chiusi. If I had tired of shop after shop peddling their wares to tourist in Sorrento, Chiusi was the antidote. Chiusi is a Tuscan town whose origins date back to the first millennium before Christ. In the 6th century BC, Chiusi was one of the most important cities in the Etruscan federation.
After visiting the “now historic” post office, Milena dropped me off in the historic center of Chiusi (pronounced key-oo-si). It was kind of odd. I walked the street under threatening skies with no one around. Shops were closed, restaurants battened down, churches…open.

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20130702-222309.jpg Etruscan History Museum

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The views from the edge of the old center are picturesque.

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While I roamed, I notice that shops were slowly opening, restaurants were beginning to show life by putting out chairs and setting the tables along the street.
This town actually shuts down for their riposo. I looked at many a menu posted along the streets and had decided upon one. However, they were not to open for another hour. So I found a “bar” or street cafe to enjoy a local glass of red.

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Seated along with me where locals enjoying their evening gossip.

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Although Chiusi seems to be a traditional town, that doesn’t stop some of the locals from expressing themselves….

20130702-223208.jpg You go girl! By the way, this donna was in her 70’s!
As I walked back to my restaurant, I noticed 2 holes in the ground covered with thick glass.

20130702-223412.jpg Below were the remains of Roman mosaic floors…how cool is that!?

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And now for dinner. I had not eaten since….well, I had not eaten at all except for a KIND bar I had in reserve in my borsa. I was going to treat myself to a nice, authentic Tuscan meal. I asked the waiter/owner for his recommendations.

20130702-223710.jpg He had me at the water bottle!!! I loved the colors of the glass and label!

20130702-223826.jpg Then a glass of Tuscan red. Although I just got a glass…..he let me keep the cork!

20130702-223932.jpg THE best Panzanella I have ever had; cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, anchovies, capers, basil, lettuce, rustic bread and mozzarella. Talk about fabulous.

20130702-224147.jpg And just in case you thought salt and pepper meant salt and pepper….

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Then an oh so tender “steak” with pepper and poached onions.

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20130702-224327.jpg I only wish I had had room for dessert.

At that point I tried to walk back to the B&B but got a bit confused. I asked directions from an older local woman and she gave them to me with great enthusiasm….but alas, I had no clue as to what she was saying….the directions went on for a long time. I got, “non andare al lago”. So I repeated, “No lake.” But after that it was just fun to listen to. So I turned on my cellular roaming for a minute and called Milena. Pronto, she was there! So, so sweet and thoughtful. I actually forgot I was a customer. Milena made me feel like a visiting friend.

20130702-224753.jpg The girls, Gaia and Eliona were not as comfortable…unless I had my camera out!
This morning, Milena once again went out of her way to take me to the station.

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20130702-225147.jpg Milena at her desk.
Milena, like Franco in Anacapri, has many years experience working with a major hotel in Milan. It is evident that this experience gives them their eye for little details. She and her husband just recently ventured out to open L’albero di gameli. The beautiful building was built at the beginning of the ‘900. Recently it has been completely restored and renovated saving the classical Tuscan style. L’albero di gameli and Chiusi would be an oasis as a home-base while exploring the Tuscan and Umbrian regions.
Little details that Milena attends to; a fabulous bed (“little” you say?! Well, when the other 3 you have slept on feel much like the beds at Pompeii…I read where the beds were simply stone slabs set atop a disc to keep animals from climbing up) a nice one was obviously going above and beyond, a wonderful variety at breakfast, local shampoo and body wash and one of my favorite details, the scent that wafted through my room, not strong, not sweet, just wonderful!

With two young girls and a young business as well, Milena works very hard. When hearing about my adventure she said, “Like the Julia Roberts.” I thought “Eat, Think, Pray, Eat”….the sequel.

Direzione Nord

20130702-073654.jpg Easy come, Easy go
Paola bid me a silent wave as I left the B&B before most were awake.
Today was mostly a travel day. The first bit of travel was to lug my belongings the 15 minute walk to the Sorrento stazione.
As I had been planning this adventure for awhile, I was bound and determined to travel as light as possible. I did not excel in that department. First of all I have a borsa AND a carry-on size bag. I wish the purse would have been sufficient. But when you start adding your last minute items like chargers, a small blanket, medicines and toiletries incase your luggage were to get lost, ipad, a couple of kind bars, water….your borsa runneth over. I probably could have fit everything in the little carry-on (kinda the size of a gym bag….only snazzier!) but then I have to lug it around all day every day. Anyway, to do it all over again (hopefully someday), I might have a different approach.
All this to say it was a bit of a challenge to get the Ferrari’s (my red suitcase) hood closed.
But I made it to the station, no problems.
My plan was to take the 9:07 to Napoli….have I already gone over all this? If so, sorry. I thought I would be more comfortable waiting in the Sorrento station instead of the notorious Napoli one. Since I arrived 45 minutes or so before my chosen train, a couple more loaded and departed. Finally the little lady cleaning (thankfully) the glass around the station tried to encourage me to get on board….at 9:07, I did.
Now this is the commuter train that runs several times an hour between Sorrento and Napoli. Graffiti rules here. Little did I know there were 30+ stops between my two cities. Good times.

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I did tip these guys. I know I probably should not have. Most savvy travelers just kept their heads down, but I give them credit. Sure “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” was barely discernible, but I am on holiday and it adds to the mood. When they passed my car and were entering the next, their serenade slid off in an unrehearsed stop….I am assuming they were to told to stop by an “official”. So later when the young, young boy entered with his accordion, dripping with things to pull at the heart; holy cards, crosses, a picture of his mamma, I put nothing in the attached Pringles can. Anyway, all he was doing was opening and closing it. He would need to use the money for lessons and I doubt that is where it would be going.
With each stop, the train fills to the brim. A moment or two before my designated exit, an older man gives me a nod, as if to say, “Hey lady tourist…this is the one you will want.” Luckily, I had read ahead in my Rick Steves’ and he alerts you to the fact that you actually want to get off one stop ahead of the last one; Garibaldi. The central station is just up the escalator.
In Naples, I have just 20 or so minutes before my train to Rome departs. I look on the board and cannot find my departure time. I ask an “official” , he pulls me aside, makes a call on his walkie talkie and tell me “diciassette” and then REAL slowly “O N E….S E V E N”. Thank you kind sir.
I board the train (the fast, really nice one…quite a contrast with the last) even though it says it is going to Milano. I ask a couple if it indeed stops first at Roma and they tell me yes. Perfetto.
The people on this train are not the same ones on my commuter. Gucci, Chanel, Hermes, Louis Vuitton luggage everywhere….the sound of my peasant plastic bag disrupts the mood as I dig for a biscotti.
I arrive in Rome and I feel like a pro.

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From there I make my next connection. This time on a older, slower train. Oddly enough, still headed for Milano. I make my way past the worn seats making the mistake of looking at the head rests. Although they have the kind of paper covers that are to be changed each excursion…to ensure sanitation, these are gray and ragged. I take seat number 87 and lean forward the entire journey.

20130702-090228.jpg I have arrived.
Each time I change locations, I contact the B&B I am staying in as to avoid any issues. In Chiusi I have booked Albero di Gameli. Milena, the owner, has told me via email that she can pick me up at the station. Walking through the small station, a beautiful, young woman approaches me smiling. “Paj?” she says. In tow she has two precious, dark haired girls, both in pink from head to toe.
Milena drives to the B&B as she shares points of interest along the way.

20130702-090747.jpg Albero di Gameli
The B&B is lovely and the scenery, although different from my recent costal vistas, breathtaking.

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20130702-091333.jpg The day jumped between cloudy and hazy so the pictures are not fabulous. But look at the hills in the far distance. They give the illusion you are looking at a painting when you are indeed standing right there! Perfect for a study of Atmospheric Perspective next year…
Milena shows me to my room.

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I have never been a lavender girl but I have appreciated the calming, welcoming effect it has. My last room in Sorrento was lavender and that oh so cool indoor/outdoor restaurant used lavender in its color scheme.
My first order of business in Chiusi is to figure out a way to lighten my load. I discuss this with Milena. She makes a few calls, Fedex and the like. Then she decides to take me to the post office. It is excursions like these that make a trip I tell ya! It is also people like Milena and Franco. I did not have “family” in Italy and now I feel like I do. They are wonderful.

20130702-092106.jpg Without Milena’s help, I could have never communicated all of this.

20130702-092147.jpg Putting together our grande scatola gialla.

20130702-092247.jpg Done.

20130702-092307.jpg I think even the postmaster lady got a kick out of all this. When we left and I was thanking all, she gave me her best “Bye-Bye” with a huge smile.
I feel lighter all ready!!

Domenica a Sorrento

Sunday, in most places, is a day to relax, a day to be with family. Here in Sorrento, that is no different.
I woke slowly this morning knowing the only item on my agenda was to eat, lunch or dinner, at Trattoria da Emilia. Waking at B&B Belvedere is much like waking in a home. You hear clanking of dishes, conversations (albeit in a number of languages), the smell of coffee. I lay there just enjoying listening to others begin their day. When I do emerge from Room 4, I am greeted in the kitchen by Ian and Mary; a couple from Australia that I met on the roof last night. They are about my parent’s ageish and very friendly. I was also finally introduced to Alfonso, the proprietor of this B&B. Alfonso is personable and very loud. Or maybe it is just my name that booms in an unfamiliar way off the italian tongue. PAJJJ. Anyway, Alfonso asked me if everything about the B&B and Sorrento itself was to my liking. I shared with him a few of my escapades and also mentioned Pizzeria da Franco. “Oh…thees-a eees-a our number one!” I tell him it is my number one too! For a leisurely Sunday, Alfonso suggested to both Ian and Mary and myself, that we visit Peter’s Beach…”Theesa-ees-a my beach.” he declares.
After a quick cappuccino from the kitchen…

20130630-221958.jpg I’m off.

Peter’s beach is reached by taking a lift from the terrace you saw me standing by yesterday. Although I arrived early, the area was already buzzing with both tourist and locals.
This time, I bite the bullet and pay 17 euro for a chair on the furthest pier and an umbrella. Walking and window shopping again today does not interest me, so this is a nice way to relax somewhere besides my room or the roof.

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I love these little cabanas where you can change. There are rows and rows of similar ones locals rent. They use them to store their beach necessities during the summer months.

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20130630-222619.jpg My view looking up at the terrace.

20130630-222653.jpg Vesuvio in the distance.

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Thank goodness the young local’s hangout is separated by a cove of water. There are constant shouts of “oooohhhhh! aaaaahhhhhh!” as they try to impress by diving from the pier.

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Fredda di cocco fresco an unexpected treat.

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I enjoy several hours on the pier; people watching and reading my book. I am reading “The Night Circus” by Erin Morgenstern. Although unrelated to travel at this point, there was a passage that I felt applied to me and this adventure-

“It was something to be explored. He investigated it the best he could although he was woefully unprepared. He did not know what tents to choose out of the dozens of options, each with tantalizing signs hinting the contents. And every turn he took through the twisting striped pathways led to more tents, more signs, more mysteries.”

As I left the spiaggia, it was overflowing with sun and fun seekers.

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20130630-224530.jpg My little spot was totally worth the 17 eruo!

Now time for lunch!

20130630-224659.jpg Finally, Emilia’s.

20130630-224721.jpg Gnocchi di Mamma

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Although lower key in the fishing village, locals are still out enjoying a family day.

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20130630-225008.jpg I was trying to be sneaky taking this sun god’s photo. He’s obviously out…all out….a lot!

20130630-225122.jpg There are carts and carts overflowing with fishing nets.

20130630-225215.jpg Lest you forget.

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After lunch, I walked and walked. Soccer seemed to be the focus of many. Italy vs Uruguay was written outside many bars.
After my walk, I took the time to gather my thoughts and paperwork for tomorrow’s departure.

In the evening I walked Piazza Tasso one last time and ended up at Pizzeria da Franco (go figure). I ordered a small pizza to go. One last evening on the rooftop. The murmur of the piazza crowd was punctuated by shouts and car horns presumably when Italy scored a goal.

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Questo e Quello

First, a correction. I had mentioned yesterday that I would be leaving Sorrento on Sunday…I know my mom has read that and said, “Oh no, there is a problem. I thought Paige spent 3 nights in Sorrento.” So, rest easy…yes I do.
My late afternoon espresso kicked in about the time I laid my head down to go to sleep…that wasn’t happening, but that is when it hit me, I do not leave Sunday, I leave Monday….that gives me another day to enjoy the Amalfi Coast.
As I said, I did not sleep well. Mostly because I was struggling with having to get up and be out the door (down the 85 steps) and to the station by 6:00. On one hand, I wanted to see Amalfi and Positano. Securing a seat on the bus would be most certain at 6:30. On the other hand….I did not want to get up. So when I woke at 5:30 to the sound of thunder, I hopped on the bed and took a look out my skylight.

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20130629-220633.jpg Problem solved! I left the window open until the pitter patter of rain began to fall. Loving the sound of the (Italian) thunder and allowing myself another hour of rest.

20130629-220840.jpg When I started to see blue behind the clouds, I knew it was time to go.

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Bottle of water, crema pastry from Rita’s and a window seat. Andiamo!
The early morning light mixed with the cloud cover and the grimy bus windows did not allow for the best of photos, but suffice it to say, anything you have read or seen about the Amalfi Coast is that and then some.
Driving out of town, you notice garden after garden. Some are haphazard, recognizable only to the planter (much like Franco’s). Some are beautifully organized and tended. Perfectly spaced out, straw or nets galore.

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I know this photo is not quality, but the wooden poles created levels or stories in the trees. Each would have nets that could be unrolled. I am assuming this made harvesting/gathering easier. At one point there was a fig tree, a lemon tree, an orange tree and olive trees, and that was in a small plot in the middle of the road. These farmers know how to utilize their space. Like Sandy said regarding Antonito’s pulley system, necessity is the Mamma of invenzione.

20130629-221852.jpg Meet my seat mate. When she sat down she said, “Sit by you?” Sure….just don’t sit ON me. On turns she would be in my lap!

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I feel like visiting these beautiful towns in a day is disrespectful. Much like those who say they have been to Capri, if only to hop in hop out. However, a major purpose of this trip was for me to discover places that I would want to return to. A place or two that I would want to spend more than a few weeks. Although the Amalfi Coast is stunning, I feel like movement around this area is difficult.
There are some amazing spots though. Check out the Il San Pietro Hotel in Positano (on google). Romantic or what!! Just be sure your guy likes to lay around, walk a bit (up hill) eat, lay around and eat some more.
Here are some sights of Amalfi.

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The Cathedral of Amalfi
Amalfi was one of the four powerful Maritime Republics in the Middle Ages (839-1135 AD). This monumental complex is a testimony to Amalfi’s glorious past. It includes;

20130629-223130.jpg The “Cloister of Paradise”.
This is the ancient cemetery for the noblemen of Amalfi, built between 1266 and 1268.

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20130629-223413.jpg The bell tower (1180-1276) is decorated in the Moorish style with polychrome majolica tiles.
There are also several frescos in small chapels off the Cloister.

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Then you enter The Basilica of the Crucifix.

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The starkness of this space, the shadow cast by the wooden, suspended crucifix, creates a power focus in this diffused light.

20130629-224334.jpg Images of The Holy Spirit are very moving to me.

20130629-224443.jpg Other pieces in this space (which dates back to 596 AD) include this exquisite fresco,

20130629-224542.jpg Relief of Madonna and Child

20130629-224702.jpg This Mitre created in 1297 for Ludovico, son of King Charles II and Bishop of Toulouse. It has a background of over 20,000 pearls!

20130629-224951.jpg 13th Century Chalice

20130629-225033.jpg And these small reliquaries. If you look closely, you see areas in the center that hold physical remains of these holy people.

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The Crypt is the heart of Amalfi because here are preserved “the head and the other bones” of Saint Andrew, Jesus’ first disciple. The bones reached Amalfi on the 8th of May, 1208.
The large bronze statue is by Florentie artist Michelangelo Naccherino (1604). Naccherino was a student of Michelangelo.
In the Cathedral…

20130629-230049.jpg You guessed it, there was a wedding going on. Do you think I am going to hear an organ playing “Here Comes the Bride” and NOT check it out?

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Everywhere you look there are beautiful dedications to Saint Andrew.

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20130629-230319.jpg The Get-Away Car

20130629-230401.jpg Not exactly sure what this is, but I thought if I do not take a photo of it, I’ll see it somewhere down the line and wish I had. I am sure it has been there for years!

20130629-230520.jpg Time for a pick me up…it is still early enough.

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20130629-230625.jpg And of course, the spiaggias!

20130629-230713.jpg ELVIS is in Italy!!

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Time to board a bus again and start back.

20130629-230831.jpg At one stop, a warm welcome!

20130629-230949.jpg I wonder if the band knows?

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When we get back to Sorrento, I am starving. I know Emilia’s will be closing shortly so I must look for a pizzeria Rick Steve’s suggests.
I ask a shopkeeper, “Corso Italia e qui?” Si he tells me, I am on the correct street. I am looking for 265. I tell myself I will go a block or two more. And then I see it.

20130629-231528.jpg Looks like a happening place. Rick says it is a favorite of locals. I have not really had a pizza yet. I have had a couple of street slices but that’s all. Inside it is quite crowded…Rick Steve’s has quite the following.
I look at the menu and decide on the

20130629-231832.jpg Sausage for Dalton and Peppers for Avery.
The pizza arrives

20130629-231951.jpg I take my first bite.

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I cannot tell you how happy I was at that moment. It was amazing!! With every bite I am so excited. I am determined to eat the entire thing…should I inhale, should I take small bites? What method will maximize my intake capacity?
I noticed in the kitchen, there was a tile painted with a saint on it. I ask the wild eyed cook, “che è il santo in cucina?” He is hard to understand but I am pretty sure he tells me Santo Antonio. I wonder if he is the saint of fire? I later learn he is the patron saint of Sorrento. Well, kudos to Santo Antonio and his cooks in la cucina.
I notice a family of four is just receiving their pizzas. I watch them expecting to see the ecstasy after their first bites…but no, they don’t even discuss it. They just sit and simply…eat. If my family were here, we would be going on and on….what is wrong with these people. Talk about undeserving.

20130629-232954.jpg One piece left…

20130629-233218.jpg Perhaps if I put more pepper flakes on it…I hear that burns calories….

20130629-233304.jpg Finito!

20130629-233354.jpg Tavolo cinque, I will remember you fondly!
Before you judge me too harshly, at least I did not order AND eat

20130629-233522.jpg The giant Nutella pizza being made as I left…but I still have one more day!

20130629-233609.jpg Poor photo quality, but I had to give it up for Santo Antonio!

20130629-233646.jpg Perfetto!
Now to walk it off a bit. By the way, I do have 85 steps each time I come to my room…that’s got to help a little don’t ya think?

20130629-235224.jpg That’s my place at the top!
Although I won’t be eating this evening, I think the lighting at Marina Grande should be nice, so I head that way.

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20130629-235356.jpg This seemed to be some sort of test. The wads and wads of fishing net, the young ones with their needles, attempting to mend and the elders just seated and laughing.

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20130629-235510.jpg These two were enjoying their evening chat. One from a Vespa, the other from the window.

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20130629-235624.jpg I decide a limoncello and a few minutes people watching in Piazza Tasso can’t hurt. I made some notes on “Holiday Wardrobes” . We’ll cover that on a “slow news day”.
Later I went up to the rooftop, Piazza Tasso below now.

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And when it got nice and dark, one more surprise to this day,

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Again, this photo does not do the experience justice, but those little lights are the red “Wish Lanterns” being set off from the park where I stood earlier. It was beautiful. I attached my wishes to theirs and watched them vanish into the night sky.
Buonanotte.

Sorrento

After reading a bit in my Rick Steve’s Guide, I was ready to take a look around.
I thought it would be best if I first prepared myself for tomorrow. The plan is to catch the early (early!) bus to Amalfi. So finding the station is a must.

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Ok. Found the station. Also picked up the times for my train on Sunday morning. In Roma and Capri I had 5 days to sort things out. In Sorrento, my time is already seeming short…

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I went ahead and bought a 24 hour bus ticket for tomorrow.

20130628-220847.jpg Bus Stop…check.

20130628-220921.jpg Place to grab a bite to take on the bus…check. Notice the name! Ciao Mamma!
Now with tomorrow’s morning lined up and ready…I am starving. The yogurt and espresso at 9:00 am has long worn off. Rick Steve’s suggests a few places but I like the sound of the most “homey” place down by the Marina Grande…of course it is the furtherest. Andiamo!
Sights of Sorrento streets-

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Yes, I am aware that these are all food. I said I was hungry. However, I could not pass this place up. It was so crisp and chic.

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20130628-221646.jpg I know you cannot see in very well, but the walls are a lavender with the robin’s egg window. This is the little room where they make the coffees. Can’t you see opening a place like this in that house on the corner of Austin and ….whatever that street is that goes to HEB by Market Platz. The entire time I was there, I was imagining that. Anyone in?

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20130628-221905.jpg Although I was hungry…I am thirsty too.
I walk on….

20130628-222054.jpg Oh no, a tunnel. I am NOT a big fan of tunnels. I have scary dreams about them. I start in and then decide it is long and I do not know where I am going, so I turn around. Then I see a young boy and his father starting in and I think…ok….I’ll just walk fast. So I did. And on the other side…

20130628-222301.jpg The local spiaggia and a fishing village.

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Now to find Trattoria de Emilia.

20130628-222502.jpg Found it!

20130628-222543.jpg I know it is a cruddy photo, but that HAS to be Emilia in the booth!! But guess what…chiuso….until 7:00….my long face does me no good here. I do however find another route back….and…

20130628-222725.jpg more tunnels, but shorter.
On my way to my 2nd choice, Inn Bufalito. But first….the spiaggia!

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And finally…

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In the trattoria I see this photo…man can I relate! I love the fact that she still cares though…the title was “Broken Beauty”.

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20130628-223216.jpg An espresso and time to roam a bit more.

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20130628-223325.jpg Look who’s here, “The Loren”…

20130628-223358.jpg The inside of this church was the softest pink and white, like the icing of a beautiful cake. The crucifix and stations were created with inlaid wood. This type of woodwork is a specialty of Sorrento.

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20130628-223558.jpg At Saint Francisco’s I walk by in time to see the bride exit and the couple’s first kiss.

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20130628-223824.jpg I think this is a hotel…magical.
Now back to the pastry shop for a bit of dessert and find a spot to watch the sun set.

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20130628-224010.jpg A Dali exhibit is in town.

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As I walk back to the hotel, I am going against crowds of beautifully dressed people. Their perfumes and colognes fill the air. This is the time of day that I miss my family. I return to my hotel, go to my rooftop and secure a ledge for one. A beautiful, sweet ending to a day in Sorrento.

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Arrivederci Capri! Ciao Sorrento

First, let me apologize for any mistakes in my first entry this morning. I usually try to read over and make a few corrections before publishing, but I was in a bit of a rush. My plan was to catch the hydrofoil to Sorrento around 10:00.
I first settled my bill with Franco…375,00 euro for 5 nights! That converts to $489.00. $97.80 per night. That includes, waters, wine, limoncello, breakfast, laundry, shuttle/accompaniment, all the ciliegie and cetriolo (cherries and cucumbers) one could want, not to mention Franco and his famiglia!! “My GAAWWWDDD, can you imagine?” to put in Franco’s words.
I secured this reservation through Franco back in November 2012. He told me I was the first reservation of 2013 and that he would give me the 2012 rate and the very best room. I never knew until this morning what that rate would be.
Franco asked that I write a nice little recommendation on “The Trip Advisor”. “Can you imagine, Paj how nice-a your writing will be since you-a are-a a teacher!” I look forward to doing just that, but in the meantime, if you are in Capri….you know where to stay, Il Giardino dell Arte….and ask for Franco! Be sure to tell him Paj sent you.

20130628-122935.jpg Pietro loading my bags.

Franco accompanied Melinda (a young Swede) and me to the boat….all the way to the boat.

20130628-123108.jpg The boat from Sorrento arrives…

20130628-123131.jpg The boat to Sorrento departs.

20130628-123221.jpg One last look way up at Tiberio’s Villa. See the tiny, skinny statue sticking up on the edge?….yes I walked there! Molto pedi..

20130628-123332.jpg Melinda and…some Italian boat guy…he was working her very hard…you can tell she is trying not to laugh. She took a photo of him earlier, he asked to look at it. She told me (she speaks Swedish, Italian, German, French and English!!) he said he looked like a model in it and could she send it to him…he wrote down his email for her!

20130628-123645.jpg Arriving in Sorrento.

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From the port, I grabbed the bus as my hotel had suggested. Asked if it were going to Piazza Tasso, Si. Hopped off at Piazzo Tasso. Asked a shop owner, “Scusi Signor. Quale strada Via Maio”? I followed the hand signals there…look for number 14 and Ecco!

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oooo, I get to get buzzed in…

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When I buzzed in Antonito asked, “You-a have-a big-a luggage?” One I replied.
Slap, slap, slap the flip-flops hurried down the stairs. Antonito arrives. He takes my luggage and says it will be brought up because the B&B is on the 6th floor (Just like in Roma, but no elevator). Then, Antonito tells me to follow him to the courtyard. He introduces me to his Mamma pointing up…”Ciao Paj! Buongiorno!!” Mamma is yelling down from the terrace above.
Then I see a rope with a hook and another rope with a small bucket. I follow the ropes and they lead to Mamma.

20130628-124445.jpg Antonito finds nothing strange about this….except my laughter….

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I am to meet my luggage and Mamma on the 6th floor.

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When I arrive, Paola, aka Mamma, greets me at the door. She shows me my room and then around the B&B.

20130628-124756.jpg My room.

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20130628-124827.jpg My entertainment center?

20130628-124855.jpg musica e film….

20130628-124947.jpg The shared kitchen. “Everything-a is free-a. Wine, snacks, a lemon…”

20130628-125033.jpg View from the terrace off the kitchen.

And then Paola encourages me to go to the rooftop, “Look, go, prego!” she says pointing to her eyes. My 360 view.

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I know nothing of Sorrento, so it is time to read a bit, look at a map and then Andiamo!!
ci vediamo tra un po ‘

Conversazioni con Franco

This is the last morning I will enjoy my breakfast on this side of the Bay of Napoli.

20130628-085147.jpg Pietro is confused by my request of only fruit, yogurt and espresso. “Basta?” he questions.
Franco will be accompanying me to the port in about 45 minutes, so I will try to make this quick. Just a couple of notes before I leave Capri.

As I would walk to and from town each day, there was always a scattering of workers “working” on some aspect of the “road”. Imagine my surprise, and his utter confusion at my surprise, when a worker I had seen every day (very solemn guy) turned and I was greeted with…

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He kept motioning me to get out of the way because there was another “truck” trying to get through. No way I was not going to get a picture of him….so Roll Tide from Capri. Oh they are going to miss me here…
Back to the guesthouse….
When I arrived yesterday, Franco was just finishing some work in his garden. “My Gawwwdd Paj! You see me like this….You don’t mind!?” He had on jeans and a white undershirt.
I asked him if I could get a photo with him this evening. “I go change imejiately Paj. Francesca will take our photograph!” Francesca rolls her eyes (often).
Franco reappears.

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Then the conversations begin. Again, I cannot begin to share everything with you…during his speeches, I would tell myself to remember what he said, how he said it…I even took some quick notes afterwards, but I am “enough silly” and I cannot remember it all. Here is just a sampling-
I asked Franco what all he grows in his garden, “Come! I will show you.” While showing me, there is a story for everything. How “The Great Grandfather” told him to put the oils on the figs so they will ripen 15 days early. “Fifteen days Paj…can you imagine!?” I asked him if he does that every year, “I will tell-a you-a the truth Paj…..no.” Fair enough.

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When I see the grapes, I ask if they make wine. “Yes, but I will tell you the truth Paj. Here in Capri, we make our wine, and we drink-a our wine….but I will tell you, here in Capri…we are ashamed of our wine…we are ashamed to offer to others.”
As we pass apricots, “Here…Paj….I pick-a this one for you….wait….no…this one is better….ok…both”

20130628-090540.jpg At this point I notice Franco has a little Kirk Douglas going on no?
Then the conversation turns to golf-a….sore subject….”I tell you Paj, these people of Capri are enough silly….we are enough silly I tell you. ” He goes on to share the “Revolution” of some wanting a golf-a course-a….a gentleman’s sport-a and then some silly, stupids do not.
I tell him maybe he should run for Mayor……”Oh my GAWWWD no Paj, I tell you….I cannot go to the square for five minutes….I do not have stupido written here.” Pointing to his forehead…
And my personal favorite…the conversation regarding his battle with Anacapri and better lighting for the road to the guesthouse. First he is told he can put in a private line….he tells the man that is crazy. Then the man suggests that “Since Franco…you only-a have five-a rooms-a,…why do you not buy five torches and give them to your guests?” To this Franco replies, “Well….I tell him, if theesa were Africa…yes that would be a fine solution….but we-a are-a not-a in Africa!”
I laughed and laughed.
It is now time for me to pack up and be accompanied…..I have LOVED Capri and I will return!

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l’ultimo Giorno on the Isola of Capri

I sit on my terrace, a shawl helping me with the cool breeze. I have decided not to walk to the town this evening. I am tired but also want to soak in my view and the quiet (birds chirping, racing, beeping vespa’s in the distance) of Il Giardino dell Arte.
On my first night in Roma, I had dinner and was seated next to two older women from Australia. I might have mentioned this, I do not remember. We talked briefly, both saying they usually travel alone but this trip was together. They asked where else I would visit and when I mentioned Capri, they grimaced. They underscored this later by saying it was the end of their holiday and of all their stops, Capri was the worst, Rome their best. Their thoughts were that Capri was too crowded and not a very personal experience. I thought, “Oh great.”
But my experience here has been just the opposite. Yes, Capri proper is tight and crowded with tourist (“a market” says Franco), but it is still a thrill to walk through and see. The escape up to Anacapri is what many do not experience. Although there are absolutely beautiful hotels in Capri, hopping on the bus, getting off and having room to roam is special. Day after day and evening after evening passing the same children and locals heightens the experience for me.

Yesterday, I was hell-bent on finding the bakery where I had purchased the fried calzone. I had been looking for it ever since. This time, I was smart enough to take a photo of the bag to show people. I first gave it a hard try on my own. I would turn a corner, get hopeful and nope…not there. I even tried to make myself happy with a different treat, but somehow zucchini and tomatoes does not equate to prosciutto and formaggio! So I showed my photo. This way, that way…I still seemed to be crisscrossing. Finally I asked a little lady, she pointed the way. From a distance she called, “signora! signora!” and pointed for me to go left. A little later, our paths crossed again. She looked at me hopeful, I held up my prize in victory. She laughed and smiled.
I doubt that happens in Capri.

This morning my intention was to just hang out here; enjoy breakfast, write you, read, etc.
By the way, a tip for enjoying every last drop of your morning espresso, put your vanilla yogurt in the “empty” cup.

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After I had done just that, I read a bit more about Capri and can you believe there is a spot I have not walked to (many in fact!). Off to Il Faraglioni. Andiamo!
I hopped a bus to Capri, walked through the city center, window shopped along their “Rodeo Drive”,

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20130627-202249.jpg Not familiar with this one, but could not resist. Could it be??? No, My Blaine would NEVER have a weenie dog as his logo.
At this point, I am planning ahead. Perhaps I will need a bite to eat along the way.

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20130627-202726.jpg It is important to taste the local treats! I put them in my borsa and continue on.

20130627-204730.jpg OK, on the right track.

20130627-204757.jpg “Movers…moving everything from bottled water to mattresses! Think about it, it has to be done.

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Another beautiful walkway.

20130627-204920.jpg Swanky!

20130627-204943.jpg I have arrived.
I can either pay 20 euros and sit to my right,

20130627-205026.jpg Can you see the blue and white umbrellas beyond? On the rocks are beautiful white mattresses covered with towels…and beautiful people.
OR, I can pay 20 euros and sit to my left, (or ask if I might look around first and snapped a couple of photos),

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OR…I can sit on the walkway in between the two, same view and enjoy the lunch I brought instead of buying theirs… I choose “C”.

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20130627-205424.jpg I think this boat has it’s own beach on the back…wonder who is in town?

20130627-205517.jpg And of course I will need extra energy for the hike back up the mountain.

20130627-205555.jpg Lemon Squares, lower your heads in shame!! Meet

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Now, back up way beyond that reddish house…

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Il Faraglioni leaves us with one last thought…You will miss us….so true!

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With the money I “saved” by squatting, I bought the perfume I have been wanting. Many in Italy, men and women, smell of this earthy scent. Mi piace moltissimo!

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And the walk continues.

20130627-210223.jpg I wonder if I could parlare my way on to this terrace this evening. Can you imagine!?!

20130627-210351.jpg Look Blaine, painting is necessary even in paradise!

20130627-210448.jpg To look this bad, yet this good….
Back on a bus up to home.
The streets of Anacapri are much quieter. Daily I have passed by young children selling what looks to be their old toys…kinda like little garage sells. These are not street urchins, just local kids.
As I pass a group of boys today, one walks with me and says, “Please Signora” as he motions to his finery. “Please Signora, mangia gelato, Signora…mangia gelato” he says while holding his hands like a beggar. I laugh, say no and continue walking….but then I think, why not. So I dig in my borsa for coins that seem to have little purpose, walk back and tell him, “OK, but…” and I motion that he must pose for my photo. He grabs his friend and gives me his best (the one on the right). I give him the coins. They all get a big laugh out of this and I get shouts of “Grazie Signora! Grazie!” I hear them laughing all the way down the street….

20130627-211147.jpg It’s a WIN/WIN!

More “Conversations with Franco” in the morning.
Ciao!