Chiusi

I wanted to share more about the Tuscan town of Chiusi. If I had tired of shop after shop peddling their wares to tourist in Sorrento, Chiusi was the antidote. Chiusi is a Tuscan town whose origins date back to the first millennium before Christ. In the 6th century BC, Chiusi was one of the most important cities in the Etruscan federation.
After visiting the “now historic” post office, Milena dropped me off in the historic center of Chiusi (pronounced key-oo-si). It was kind of odd. I walked the street under threatening skies with no one around. Shops were closed, restaurants battened down, churches…open.

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20130702-222309.jpg Etruscan History Museum

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The views from the edge of the old center are picturesque.

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While I roamed, I notice that shops were slowly opening, restaurants were beginning to show life by putting out chairs and setting the tables along the street.
This town actually shuts down for their riposo. I looked at many a menu posted along the streets and had decided upon one. However, they were not to open for another hour. So I found a “bar” or street cafe to enjoy a local glass of red.

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Seated along with me where locals enjoying their evening gossip.

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Although Chiusi seems to be a traditional town, that doesn’t stop some of the locals from expressing themselves….

20130702-223208.jpg You go girl! By the way, this donna was in her 70’s!
As I walked back to my restaurant, I noticed 2 holes in the ground covered with thick glass.

20130702-223412.jpg Below were the remains of Roman mosaic floors…how cool is that!?

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And now for dinner. I had not eaten since….well, I had not eaten at all except for a KIND bar I had in reserve in my borsa. I was going to treat myself to a nice, authentic Tuscan meal. I asked the waiter/owner for his recommendations.

20130702-223710.jpg He had me at the water bottle!!! I loved the colors of the glass and label!

20130702-223826.jpg Then a glass of Tuscan red. Although I just got a glass…..he let me keep the cork!

20130702-223932.jpg THE best Panzanella I have ever had; cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, anchovies, capers, basil, lettuce, rustic bread and mozzarella. Talk about fabulous.

20130702-224147.jpg And just in case you thought salt and pepper meant salt and pepper….

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Then an oh so tender “steak” with pepper and poached onions.

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20130702-224327.jpg I only wish I had had room for dessert.

At that point I tried to walk back to the B&B but got a bit confused. I asked directions from an older local woman and she gave them to me with great enthusiasm….but alas, I had no clue as to what she was saying….the directions went on for a long time. I got, “non andare al lago”. So I repeated, “No lake.” But after that it was just fun to listen to. So I turned on my cellular roaming for a minute and called Milena. Pronto, she was there! So, so sweet and thoughtful. I actually forgot I was a customer. Milena made me feel like a visiting friend.

20130702-224753.jpg The girls, Gaia and Eliona were not as comfortable…unless I had my camera out!
This morning, Milena once again went out of her way to take me to the station.

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20130702-225147.jpg Milena at her desk.
Milena, like Franco in Anacapri, has many years experience working with a major hotel in Milan. It is evident that this experience gives them their eye for little details. She and her husband just recently ventured out to open L’albero di gameli. The beautiful building was built at the beginning of the ‘900. Recently it has been completely restored and renovated saving the classical Tuscan style. L’albero di gameli and Chiusi would be an oasis as a home-base while exploring the Tuscan and Umbrian regions.
Little details that Milena attends to; a fabulous bed (“little” you say?! Well, when the other 3 you have slept on feel much like the beds at Pompeii…I read where the beds were simply stone slabs set atop a disc to keep animals from climbing up) a nice one was obviously going above and beyond, a wonderful variety at breakfast, local shampoo and body wash and one of my favorite details, the scent that wafted through my room, not strong, not sweet, just wonderful!

With two young girls and a young business as well, Milena works very hard. When hearing about my adventure she said, “Like the Julia Roberts.” I thought “Eat, Think, Pray, Eat”….the sequel.

3 thoughts on “Chiusi

  1. And did you keep the beautiful water bottle?? I kept a juice bottle from when the girls and I were in Aix in Provence. When I go home tonight I am getting it out and putting a flower in it once again.
    You have inspired and brought back memories! thank you!

    • Unfortunately I do not have the luxury of keeping larger items. I did tear off the label though. I am planning a piece of art with all my ephemera!

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