I sit on my terrace, a shawl helping me with the cool breeze. I have decided not to walk to the town this evening. I am tired but also want to soak in my view and the quiet (birds chirping, racing, beeping vespa’s in the distance) of Il Giardino dell Arte.
On my first night in Roma, I had dinner and was seated next to two older women from Australia. I might have mentioned this, I do not remember. We talked briefly, both saying they usually travel alone but this trip was together. They asked where else I would visit and when I mentioned Capri, they grimaced. They underscored this later by saying it was the end of their holiday and of all their stops, Capri was the worst, Rome their best. Their thoughts were that Capri was too crowded and not a very personal experience. I thought, “Oh great.”
But my experience here has been just the opposite. Yes, Capri proper is tight and crowded with tourist (“a market” says Franco), but it is still a thrill to walk through and see. The escape up to Anacapri is what many do not experience. Although there are absolutely beautiful hotels in Capri, hopping on the bus, getting off and having room to roam is special. Day after day and evening after evening passing the same children and locals heightens the experience for me.
Yesterday, I was hell-bent on finding the bakery where I had purchased the fried calzone. I had been looking for it ever since. This time, I was smart enough to take a photo of the bag to show people. I first gave it a hard try on my own. I would turn a corner, get hopeful and nope…not there. I even tried to make myself happy with a different treat, but somehow zucchini and tomatoes does not equate to prosciutto and formaggio! So I showed my photo. This way, that way…I still seemed to be crisscrossing. Finally I asked a little lady, she pointed the way. From a distance she called, “signora! signora!” and pointed for me to go left. A little later, our paths crossed again. She looked at me hopeful, I held up my prize in victory. She laughed and smiled.
I doubt that happens in Capri.
This morning my intention was to just hang out here; enjoy breakfast, write you, read, etc.
By the way, a tip for enjoying every last drop of your morning espresso, put your vanilla yogurt in the “empty” cup.
After I had done just that, I read a bit more about Capri and can you believe there is a spot I have not walked to (many in fact!). Off to Il Faraglioni. Andiamo!
I hopped a bus to Capri, walked through the city center, window shopped along their “Rodeo Drive”,
Not familiar with this one, but could not resist. Could it be??? No, My Blaine would NEVER have a weenie dog as his logo.
At this point, I am planning ahead. Perhaps I will need a bite to eat along the way.
Can you see the blue and white umbrellas beyond? On the rocks are beautiful white mattresses covered with towels…and beautiful people.
OR, I can pay 20 euros and sit to my left, (or ask if I might look around first and snapped a couple of photos),
To look this bad, yet this good….
Back on a bus up to home.
The streets of Anacapri are much quieter. Daily I have passed by young children selling what looks to be their old toys…kinda like little garage sells. These are not street urchins, just local kids.
As I pass a group of boys today, one walks with me and says, “Please Signora” as he motions to his finery. “Please Signora, mangia gelato, Signora…mangia gelato” he says while holding his hands like a beggar. I laugh, say no and continue walking….but then I think, why not. So I dig in my borsa for coins that seem to have little purpose, walk back and tell him, “OK, but…” and I motion that he must pose for my photo. He grabs his friend and gives me his best (the one on the right). I give him the coins. They all get a big laugh out of this and I get shouts of “Grazie Signora! Grazie!” I hear them laughing all the way down the street….
More “Conversations with Franco” in the morning.