Last night and this morning, Avery and I tossed around ideas of what to do for her final full day in Firenze.  We revisited the idea of taking a day trip to Venice, which I am really torn with, but decide to leave that and perhaps an over night there, for a future trip.

Avery says she would like to see Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, so an afternoon at the Uffizi it is.  I buy biglietti on line, scheduling our time for 2:30.  This allows for a leisurely morning and a good lunch before.

I decide Avery needs to have some pappa pomodoro before leaving Toscana, and since I had a wonderful bowl at I’Raddi…we return.

We arrive about 30 minutes before it opens…that time depends on whether you think they open by what the sign on the door says or by what we were told when we first tried to enter.  Avery and I wait around outside along with two laborers.  A great way to tell if a place is buono or not…do locals come and wait for it to open as well?  Once the time has passed for when they “said” they would open…I decide to walk in again.  I had been waiting, thinking they would come out and say, “OK…you can come in now”, but when I poke my head in and tentatively say, “tavalo per due?”  we get “Certo” in response and are the first to be seated.  We are taken to the same table I had last time.  By the time we ordered, the small trattoria was packed with workers and families, and a few well informed tourist.

Looking over the menu, this time I see melone e prosciutto but I do not see pappa pomodoro, so I ask.  “Si”  they have it today.  Avery and I have a hard time deciding so we order everything we want to try.

It was almost…just almost… a little embarrassing when piatto after piatto was placed on our tavolo.  Avery’s first choice was fiori fritti.  We wanted to compare these to the ones we prepared yesterday…research mind you.  I, of course, wanted melone e prosciutto (presented differently than my last visit), the pappa pomodoro was our reason for returning, so it was a must and then at the last minute, I saw coccoli, the fried dough I fell in love with in 2013, it was served with stracchino and prosciutto,  this rounded out our “lunch”.  No vino or a nap would be needed before the museo.

Several times during our lunch the electricity went off in the trattoria.

After a few “alloras” were heard, someone would walk out, flip a switch in another part of the building and we were up and running again.

Leaving I’Raddi,  we still had about an hour before our scheduled time at the Uffizi, so we roamed oltrarno picking up a few treats Avery wanted to bring back.  Next door to a wonderful little tea towel shop, I found an amazing pillow shop.  I fell in love instantly, just knowing they were the perfect souvenir.  In the window, one-of-a-kind pillows were shown with images of the duomo and the facade of Santo Spirito appliquéd on them.  Also featured were a Vespa and the Florentine Giglio, but the previously mentioned were my favorites.  I went in enamored, spoke with the artist, gushed over his work and left undecided.

Every single thing I purchase leads to concerns about zipping my suitcase…I also always consider the price.  Although I am happy to contribute to an artist’s life, I ultimately decided against the 75euro investment…maybe next time.

Andiamo all’Uffizi…

When we arrived at the Uffizi, the lines were of course LONG…I felt pretty confident we would be skipping most, due to a specific time on our bigliettos.  And yes, we did not have to wait in the line to purchase a ticket, but we still had to wait in one to enter.  I assume they turn you down if you wait in the line and get to the front before your time, but am not sure.

This is my forth visit to the Uffizi.  My first was with Mom and Jim, second on a tour with Florencetown, third solo and now fourth with Avery.  My kids have endured many a museo visit with me over their years.  I have learned it is best to have a fairly specific agenda, hit the highlights.  My reason for this is two-fold…number one are less likely to lose their attention (and get them to continue visiting museums) and number two, I think we retain more when we don’t try to see/experience everything.

So, our agenda is- Share with Avery a few of my Gothic, Early and High Renaissance favorites;  Simone Martini, Giotto, Botticelli (also Avery’s request) , Michelangelo and da Vinci.  Also see Rafael and Carravagio’s work.  Andiamo!

Below I focused on the angel on the left of Giotto’s late medieval/gothic painting  Ognissanti Madonna or Madonna Enthroned.  Painted in 1310, it is often celebrated as the first painting of the Renaissance (and Giotto, 1266-1337, as the first painter of the Renaissance) due to its newfound naturalism.

We study Giotto and look at this piece as we are introduced to the Renaissance in Art II. What a beautiful example of a limited color palette this is.

This panel, The Annunciation with Saint Margaret and Saint Ansanus was painted in 1333, by Simone Martini 1284-1344.  As I have mentioned, I love depictions of The Holy Spirit.

While looking at the depiction of the angel, I just shake my head at the beautifully rendered details. My eye flits around from the wings, to the blush of the face, to the raised letters exclaiming the news…the movement in the cape, the patterns throughout, the energy in the halo…

My heart warms to be with Avery as she stands admiring this piece, The Birth of Venus, 1486, Sandro Botticelli, 1445-1510.  I am reminded of a visit long ago to the Metropolitan Museum in New York.  Nonnie and I had taken Avery for her first visit when she was in kindergarten or first grade.  While at the museum, she stood transfixed in front of a painting Joan of Arc by Jules Bastien-Lepage.  The painting is huge, 100×110 inches.  Bastien-Lepage depicts Joan in her parents’ garden, gazing up at the angels appearing to her.  It is an exquisite painting and the expressiveness of the teenager is captivating. Avery gazed at it for minutes, the placement and size of the piece underscoring her smallness.  Finally, she turned her head over her shoulder and said to with resolution, “Let’s get it.”

Primavera, Botticelli, late 1470’s or early 1480’s.  It is often described as one of the most controversial and or written about paintings in the world as well as one of the most popular paintings in Western art.  Along with The Birth of Venus, Botticelli depiction of subjects from classical mythology on a very large scale was virtually unprecedented in Western art since classical antiquity.  And….we haven’t discussed the Medici family in a while…so let me add it is said both were commissioned by a member of the family.

Adoration of the Magi, 1475, dates from 1475 or 1476, early in Botticelli’s career.  In the scene, numerous Medici are present: Cosimo, kneeling by the Virgin, his sons Piero, kneeling in the center with the red cape and Giovanni as the third Magus.  Cosimo’s grandsons Giuliano and Lorenzo also make an appearance.  The three Medici depicted as the Magi were dead at the time and Lorenzo the Magnificent was the power player.  In much I have read, Botticelli, like many other major artists of the day, were daily fixtures at Palazzo Medici, some even taking up residence.  The man gazing at us, far right, yellow cape…Sandro B. himself.

Who needs a pick me up?  We do!

We decide to splurge with a sit-down snack on the terrazzo of the museo.  Spritz for me, jolt of caffeine for A, acqua e dolce for both.

Spritz with a view…

Back in the museu, we make our other stops.  I continued to share a bit of my love of Art History with mi figlia…I was getting a lot of “uh-huhs” so I kept it to a minimum.

Although showing her the da Vinci’s always in residence was a must of our/my list, both of us getting to see this recently restored piece was a special treat.

The Adoration of the Magi is an early painting, 1481, by Leonardo da Vinci, 1452-1519.  Leonardo received the commission by Augustinian monks of San Donato a Scopeto in Florence, but as was his way, he left the painting unfinished when he departed for Milan the following year.

Admiring this piece, 97″x 96″, gives unique insight to the master’s process.

Exciting the Uffizi, you pass through bookstore after bookstore.  It is very hard to not buy, buy, buy…but instead, I take a quick photo of a book I need to add to my Amazon Wish List..Palle! Palle! Palle!!!!

Yesterday or maybe the day before, we saw a new restaurant we wanted to try.  It is over in the Santa Croceish area so we head that way for our aperitivo.

This is a type place I am hesitant to try.  I feel like I am being disloyal to the True Firenze…whatever that means…I usually prefer quaint and authentic to new and slick, but as with ditta Artigianale, I was thrilled with that find, so we decide perche no to Foody Farm.

We love the decor of the interior.  I took the photo of the light fixture just for you Carolyn…Avery and I thought you would like it.

Avery chooses a Rosè for us and we continue on this non-traditional path choosing steak tartare and pulled chicken tacos to munch on.

Roaming our way back towards the Arno, we pass this sign and Avery says, “Go Goats”.  We keep walking a few more steps, then I return to take a photo of it.  Avery said, “I wondered how many steps you’d take before you went back.”  Oh I am SO predictable…For those unaware, our school district’s mascot is a goat…as well as a bit of a family joke…

As the sun sets, we are in no hurry and have zero agenda.

A bit later, we find ourselves on our street, but not ready to turn in for the night.  We stop at a trattoria I had eyed for days.  Each time I would approach, I’d tell myself, “If the outside table is empty…I’m sitting down.”  This evening, it was empty.

We order due bicchieri di vino bianco and just enjoy.

I cross the via to take a shot of our spot and as I am taking the photo, the waiter rushes out and jumps in the shot with Avery.  

Shortly after their “moment”…he reappears with an offering.

Ahhh… the benefits of traveling with the Young & Lovely!

For nights now, I have woken up smiling knowing that Avery was soon to arrive. This was a big decision for her use work days and expense to join me for a bit. 

Avery, Dalton, Nonnie and myself came to France and Italy in Summer 2008. They enjoyed the experience very much but didn’t have the strong desire to study abroad during college or return with friends. I think Dalton is more my out of the country traveler, but golf kept him busy during the first half + of his college years. 

Her flight did not arrive until 2:00ish so I went to mass before her arrival. 

I tidy up the appartamento making sure to share 1/2 the space (and half the A/C), then go out to the stoop and wait in anticipation. 

When she arrives, she is “thrilled” I am there to document.

Her flight went well except for the fact that a girl behind her was throwing up the entire trip. She thought about moving seats but as she had an empty seat beside her, she decided this could be the lesser of two evils. 

I showed her around our appartamento for the next four nights, then. Edited she could get too comfortable, I told her it would be best for us to walk and see a bit before resting. 

Andiamo!

Avery has never been to Firenze so we did the big loop, Santo Spirito to Saint Mark’s weaving in and out as we walked. 

There are certain places I want her to see and experience. I feel a bit like a broken record because it was basically the same agenda for Danita. 

As we approach Pugi, I think and say, ” it could quite possibly closed today since it is Sunday. Sure enough, it was. I share a bit of history of Saint Mark’s and then we roam to Le Menagere for her first Spritz. 

The heat is something you just do not get used to, at least being from the USA, enjoying the respite of hopping from true A/C to true A/C. Here even places that “have” A/C….well, you know. 

We sit enjoying our refreshing Spritz as we sweat out as much liquid as we take in. To keep our energy up, Avery orders a piece of torta di carote…good call. 

The traveler she is, she pushes through the jet lag, conserving energy where she can. 

We wind our way back across the Arno taking in the Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio as we go. I don’t push these sights too much because when I look through someone else’s occhi, I get the same sensation as my very first “drop in” visit with Mom and Jim…and my memories were not good ones. It is crowded, hot and feels very much like an amusement park. 

When we cross the fiume, we returned to the appartamento for a little rest. Tonight, we are meeting the Girls from Georgia for aun bicchiere di vino a little Santino. 

I cannot believe I did not document our evening with our nuova amica. I think it was all going so well and conversation so natural, I completely forgot.  

After sharing bella bottiglia di vino rosso toscano, kiss, kiss and part ways. There is certainly something to be said of Southerners and their hospitality. 

Avery and I stroll around the corner to Piazza Santo Spirito for dinner. In 2015 I had a gnocchi at Osteria Santo Spirito and wished for my kids. I am happy to share this with Avery on her prima notte a Firenze. 

Gnocchi con quattro formaggi e olio di tartufo e Risotti con zucchine. 

Buona notte. 

I make countless loops around the historic  center of Firenze each day. Often I leave the apartment on a specific errand and find myself totally off track due to an interesting turn I’ve taken. 

For example…you gotta follow a guy with a cloud of white balloons!

This bella città has so much more to offer than what hits the average tourist’s occhio. Let me share some of the lesser known treasures. 

Sant’ Ambrogio Market

Located off Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti you’ll find a smaller, less hectic and possibly a bit more authentic market than San Lorenzo. 

Very few tourist roam through the stalls. Locals are engaged in debates. Produce is colorful and healthy. The variety, broad. 

Indoors. You’ll find your pane e carne. 

I chose some “figlio” sized sciacciatta. When I pointed to the small rounds asking if it were also sciacciatta, the baker said “Si…theeesa eeesa the Momma (holding up the larger, more familiar looking pane) and-a theeesssaa (holding up the smaller in question) eeesssaa the figlio…the son-a.”  I said I would take tre, due sale e una pomodori.  1.5€! I noticed when he was bagging it, he glanced down into the bag and shrugged his shoulders. As I walked off, opening the bag, I noticed there were cinque figli. 

Outside you can find pretty much any thing you might need; fruit, cooked maiale, shirts, pants, plants, fiori, artisan watermelons and toilet paper. 

Not much English heard here. Infatti, I had a completely Italian conversation with a woman about my nuovi pantaloni I was wearing. She walked up to me intent on something. I told her, “Mi dispiace, non parlo molto bene italiano.”  This did not discourage her, so….I did my best. I walked away tickled. Not only did this older Italian donna find my pantaloni “molto elegante, molto chic”…but I was able to communicate where I got them, when I bought them and how little I paid for them. Brava on all counts!

Across the via I spot another market. This one looks like it is either being set up or taken down, but I venture over. 

What fun it is rummaging around through others’ cast offs. Someday I’ll have to return with an empty case filling it to the brim with pre-owned treasures. 

A bookstore…of sorts. 

I ask a man outside if it is his shop. He answers in a yes…kinda sorta way, damn the family business way. I ask him if he has a copy of The Great Gatsby. At first he says no but them walks in and begins restacking a stack, saying “I seem-a to remember”. 

Vittoria!!! Avery collects copies of this classic and I am thrilled when I get to add to the collection. This one even has a different cover. I’m so happy, saying “yay!” several times. The reluctant owner continues to look at me in a nonplus way. I push, asking if he might have a business card I can attach to the inside. Again, “No…”, then starts digging. The excavation is successful, but he says, “Eeetttaaa eesssa only written by-a hand-a”. 

“Yay!”…anche meglio. 

I weave my way towards the Arno furthering my exploration. 

This work of art made me laugh…around here, you toss your vecchio mattress and someone will use it as a canvas. How cool this would be hanging somewhere (after fumigation of course), alas it will probably end up at the dump along with countless other works of art. 

In Firenze, art is everywhere. I encourage looking in unexpected places. 

I cross the Arno bridges away from the congestion of tourist. 

Oltrarno is a quarter of Firenze south of the Arno. To many Florentines, it is the best and most authentic area. I accidentally work myself up to Piazzale Michelangelo. In the heat of midday, there are much fewer tourist. No doubt sunset is special, but the view from here is a head shaker no matter the time of day. 

On the South side I revisit Clet Abraham’s studio purchasing a print I’ve admired as well as a couple of the spilled wine stickers. I’ve been here 4 times and have yet to be fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of the artist, but I love snooping around the studio.  The print I purchased is similar to what you see on the wall there…the duomo turning into a moka, then a Vespa. 

Clet’s is not the only studio I snoop in.  Oltarno you will find workshops and studios with the doors open, artisans at work, saying “prego,prego” as you peek in. 

This lighting shop was magical.

And these fiori!

I enjoyed a bicchiere di vino bianco at popular enoteca, before continuing my roam. 

Further south I find myself at Porta Romana. This is part of the ancient walls of Firenze dating back to the 14th century. 

And I had to touch it, certo!

Near the gates I see remnants of Roma…

Deep in a true neighborhood you see such sweet things,

Neighbors caring for neighbors…who are they making such effort to bring the flowers to?

In the back of this trattoria, the kitchen staff eats together before sharing their talents with others. 

And the true pride for their city…not to get tourist to buy in. 

Before going back to my room, I have a little pick me up…Tiramisu. This time it is actually mine. Although I do like this Italian dolce, it tends to be a bit rich for me…but I’m enjoying this for my Dad.  Ahhh, the things we do for love…

On my walk up to Piazzale Michelangelo, I picked up a flyer promoting a concert. I decide to purchase the cheapest ticket and attend this evening. 

I return to the room, clean up and rest a bit. Then I’m off to the concerto. 

My ticket was 25€. The next section up was 35€, and the front section 50€. Being early, I get the front row of the cheap seats. In front of me, only 7 rows, sit the big spenders. 

At first I was not sure about video etiquette so that’s why you see my dress, but later see it is ok.  None of the picture quality is good but I must try to transport you the way I was. ​

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​I was in constant awe that ten instruments played by mere mortals could produce such exquisite sounds. 

After the final “Brava!” was shouted, I returned to my via (the brown doors are mine) and ended my day in the perfetto Italian way…  

Con pasta!

My final day in Positano is solo. I have no plans I just decide to write and roam. 

I’ve had some great uffici, but this is my favorite yet. 

As Franco would say, the views here “crazy” me. 

Danita left a dress she bought here for me to enjoy, so after completing a post, I slip it on and slip out. 

No clue where I am headed, but I have not ventured up past last night’s restaurant. Andiamo!

Each twist and turn affords the most amazing views. In my head, all day, I kept saying, “I am crazied by this.”  I am not sure if it because I had no one to say it aloud to or being solo, you soak things in more. No matter the reason, Positano is simply breathtaking. 

I had noticed earlier there was a chiesa high up (see it with it’s duomo) we had not gotten to. Today’s the day. 

Oh gee look…altri passi…

Often in life, we are rewarded for our efforts.   You’ll see this piccolo piece of mosaic gracing mi casa walls soon. 

Well I reached the top and wouldn’t you know…chiuso. 

 Even if every chiesa and shop were closed today (as many are because it is Domenica and there is a festival tonight up the mountain), here, there is plenty to take in. 

And plenty of choices of places to roam. Having a car along the Amalfi would be quite an adventure!

Loved this shop…and the owner sleeping amidst the chaos. I just knew when I took the photo he would open un occhio…ma no. (I thought Tricia would especially like this one. I could hear her laugh as I snapped.)

This may be my fotographia preferita…Così italiano.

On the way down, I stop in to a spot Danita and I eyed yesterday.  From wares to decor to food, here, everything is done right. 

Still a bit bummed I didn’t drive a Fiat while here. Anyone interested in cooperative investment?

On my way back to the room, I grab dolce. Aren’t these so pretty!? And only 1€ each. A Positano deal for sure!

Inspired by the shop owner, I return to la terrazzo for a rest. 

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After a little writing and a little resting, I repack readying myself for tomorrow’s departure. 

I decide to return to where we had dinner last night to enjoy a Bicchiere di vino rosso e tramonto. 

Tonight I chat with a young couple from New York on their honeymoon. Today they rented a kayak and made their way around the coastline. On my list when I return. 

Buona Notte Positano!