La Scogliera, The Cliffs

1:30 in the morning, knock at the door.  I barely stir.  I know Danita has been in and out or the room communicating with the luggage handler.  By the tone of her voice, the suitcase has finally arrived…and with a “RUSH” tag no less.  image

Last night, we scheduled our breakfast to be delivered at 9:00…and right on time, we are served on the terrazzo.

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“I  wish someone would  cut fruit up like this for me every day of my life.” Danita Jarreau

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There really are no words that can add to the photos.  Breakfast was quite an experience!

Nothing today can top this right?…

Luckily with the arrival of the suitcase, Danita will not be wearing sequins and bangles to the beach.  We grab our sunscreen, kindles and hats and head out.

Right when we step out to the via, we hear some musica…

In case you didn’t like that song or you just want to hear a bit more…follow me.  SInce we are both going down, we meet ancora.

As you can tell by the video, we did a quick scoot to get in front of the band.  Although they were stopping for a break, you never know when they could get the urge again and we’ve got a beach with our names on it.

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Danita recently planted a Bougainvillea at home, she wonders if it could ever look like this.

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When we arrive yesterday, this lovely, vine topped path was wall to wall people.

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We stroll down, down, down.  We’ve got our bearings now.  When we first arrived I thought I would never know where I had been or be able to figure out how to get back to the room…I have a totally different take on Positano now.  As I have always advised,one day at a spot is never enough to judge it accurately…I say three is the minimum.

Normally I would have been a bit nervous (Danita points out that I am “nervous” a lot…I need of think of a better word; anxious, expectant, apprehensive…I’ll work on that… oath the word and the emotion) regarding whether we would be in time to get a great spot at la spiaggia…but since we reserved our spots yesterday, all is good.

Benvenuto a la Scogliera…Antonio will show us to our spot.

Non male huh!?  Again, the little reserved sign with “Page” on it…too heavy for the suitcase.

When Antonio started pouring the water, hand behind the back and all…it cracked me up.   But, when at la Scogliera, we decide to enjoy all they have to offer.

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Danita was very excited about her first dip in the Mediterranean.


We both found handfuls of beautifully hued Sea Glass.


Later in the day, the cocktails did not disappoint.


The snack Antonio brought for aperitivo was the best “Beach Bite” I’ve ever had.


I got a Spritz Shot that rivals all others.


The sound of the sea rolling and crashing,  the vistas…

“Best day ever,” -Danita Jarreau

If you have plans to visit Positano, Insuggest starting a la Scogliera fund now. It is worth the extra euro, at least for one day. Just make it a day where you have nothing else planned.

As most good things, all too soon, it was time to go. We had our spot until the evening, but as Danita’s plans have changed, she needed to get back to Villa Yiara to pack. Her car was to pick her up at 19:00 to whisk her to Roma, catching an early morning flight tomorrow.

One last dinner together. Another great rec of Imara’s. 

Like these due bicchiere di vino, Danita and I have different qualities and notes to us, but are perfect table companions.

Our last meal in Italia introduced us to two new specialties.

The zuppa, pasta e fagioli con guanciale will fatto nelle nostre case.

As we said our Arrivederci, and Danita drove away, Il mio cuore era triste, but the memories we will share per sempre.

Arrivano Positano

Today we head further south to Positano, a highlight of the Amalfi Coast.  We are to board our ferry at 10:30, so getting packed and ready is not a rush.  We even return to Puro enjoying a fabulous croissant and cappuccino.

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Arriving at the port, we are ushered up to a little cafe and told to wait until our boat is called.  When we approached our table, I commented on the cute, little Peroni napkin holder.  Without skipping a beat, the waiter said, “I make-a you-a good price-a.”

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Each time he passed, he would tell me how easily I could slip it into my suitcase and take it home.  So tempting if the darn thing didn’t weigh so much.

While we sat…or let me say Danita sat and I kinda hovered, both wondered if we were indeed going to get called for our ferry.  One large group had already gotten up and left for their ferry, but our waiter said again as he passed, “Not-a you-a”.  Hhhhmmmm…I’m not so sure about-a that-a.  “Il conto per favore”.  WOW-a!  3euro bottle of water.  This was our first time we felt scammed.  We head down to the docks.  As we leave the cafe, we are told we are to meet our ferry at gate 3.  1/2 way down the docks, we are told to meet our ferry at gate 6.  A bit further down…gate 2.  At this point, we just follow the crowd waiting to get on the only boat…not really a ferry.

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We are about 6 or so people from boarding and the line stops moving.  A long phone conversation is had between a crew member and whoever is on the other end of the line.  It is obvious our boat is exceeding capacity…but hey, trains, buses, why not boats.   We are finally invited on board, squeezing past all the people who got up from the cafe before us.

With no other choice, I reluctantly leave my suitcase by the entrance of the boat and squeeze my way up top.  There is no way I can endure this ride crushed in the small, enclosed cabin area below.  I’m going to need some fresh air.

Up top, the early birds are sprawled out and comfortable.  I get it…they were here first, but slowly a few people start moving their legs off the ends of their lounge chairs allowing others to perch.  I decide to stay standing allowing a better vantage point for photos.  But after 30 minutes or so, I ask the 4 people on a 5-6 person cushioned bench, if they could possibly just allow me to sit on the very edge of their bench.  They simply stare.  A lady across says, “She’s small…she won’t take up much room.” And the two closest to me scoot…just a tad.  The other two…do not budge…not an inch.  The two who are taking up the most room on the whole boat, refuse to give an inch.

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Grumpy there was slathered in sunscreen, so I practiced this phrase.

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Danita wanted to translate, “Your face is going to freeze like that”, but she figured that bit of wisdom would have come too late.

The entire ride people around us were complaining the boat is over crowded and this isn’t even the correct ferry.  According to our tickets, we were to be on a bigger, faster ferry.  Again…a delayed arrival in Positano.  Buonvenuto Italai!

Once I got my perch, I was not concerned.  I just sat back (kinda) and took in the view.

 

I have been to Positano once, that is if you count a couple of hours during a bus excursion down the Amalfi Coast.  I was clueless how we were to negotiate this vertical city…with luggage.

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If you ever come to Positano, please learn from our experience.  When the Porters come by on their tiny “trucks” and ask if you want your luggage brought to your hotel, the correct answer is “Si.  Grazie Mille.”  If I knew now what I didn’t know then, I wouldn’t have lugged my suitcase up, up, up the first 70 or so stairs to the Chiesa.  Although Danita did not have her suitcase, she did have several overstuffed bags traveling like, in her words, “a little lady in Mexico”.

By the time we made it to the level at the Chiesa, we were hot, confused and speaking for myself…a little disheartened.  I thought perhaps I had made a mistake in adding Positano to the itinerary, Giada gushes aside.

We each have a brief phone conversation with our hotel, which was useless.  While Danita stands with our bags, I do a quick info gathering trek…I came back with no answers, but I show her a picture of a shirt I saw.

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Her response?  “You went shopping without me?!”

With no cars/taxis in sight…we continue to head up, up, up, dragging my suitcase through the throngs of tourist in these narrow, narrow passageways.

I am just about to give up, when we spot a taxi…Danita approaches the driver and she tells us she’s reserved but another will be here in 2 minutes.  Sure enough, minutes later, we are winding our way through Positano.

Months ago as we planned this trip, Danita took over securing our accommodations in Sorrento, Positano and Roma.  So she gets ALL the credit for Villa Yiara.

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Not only is Villa Yiara lovely, but Imara, the owner, is such a wonderful hostess.  She assisted us with numerous issues and gave perfect restaurant recommendations every time.  The Positano experience would not have been the same without her. Listening to her secure car transfers for us was like having our own Italian assistant while in Positano. Grazie Mille Imara!

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Now for some cibo and a little exploration.

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These are the FIRST set of steps (67 of them…I counted) we must go down each time we explore down from our room.  And of course, what goes down…must come up. Throughout our stay, we wonder how older people or those not in shape can visit Positano.

Imara’s first recommendation of Caffe Positano is a perfect one.  We have not eaten since our croissant and I vowed to go hearty.  Risotto con gameretti, pomodori e limon is my choice.  Danita chooses Fiori di Zucca Ripieni and a insalata

And like buoni amici, we share.

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The view breathtaking, the food wonderful and nourishing…we are revived.

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Luggage Update- Still not here…word is…it’s gone to Capri…most likely…

Our plan for Danita’s last day tomorrow is to spend it at la spiaggia.  But without a suit, Danita shops for one…and I am ever so helpful.

“Are you opposed to purple sequins?”…

“Yes.”

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“What about beads and sparkles?”…

“Not really…”

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The hunt continues.

Down near la spiaggia, I see this little girl dragging her bucket benind her…who needs a puppy when you’ve got a bucket…so cute.

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At la spiaggia, we scope out where we would like to spend our day tomorrow.

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Originally we would have probably spent at least two days at the beach, but since our plans have changed a bit…we decide to splurge on just the one.   Big reveal tomorrow.

On our way back up to Villa Yiarra, we stop choosing a bottiglie regionali di vino and plan to enjoy our terrazzo for the evening.

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But as la Luna rose, we toyed with the idea of going out to get a bite to eat.

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“Do you want to go eat?”

“No, let’s just stay in.”

Seconds pass…

OK…let’s go eat…

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Ci vediamo domani!