Today we head further south to Positano, a highlight of the Amalfi Coast. We are to board our ferry at 10:30, so getting packed and ready is not a rush. We even return to Puro enjoying a fabulous croissant and cappuccino.
Arriving at the port, we are ushered up to a little cafe and told to wait until our boat is called. When we approached our table, I commented on the cute, little Peroni napkin holder. Without skipping a beat, the waiter said, “I make-a you-a good price-a.”
Each time he passed, he would tell me how easily I could slip it into my suitcase and take it home. So tempting if the darn thing didn’t weigh so much.
While we sat…or let me say Danita sat and I kinda hovered, both wondered if we were indeed going to get called for our ferry. One large group had already gotten up and left for their ferry, but our waiter said again as he passed, “Not-a you-a”. Hhhhmmmm…I’m not so sure about-a that-a. “Il conto per favore”. WOW-a! 3euro bottle of water. This was our first time we felt scammed. We head down to the docks. As we leave the cafe, we are told we are to meet our ferry at gate 3. 1/2 way down the docks, we are told to meet our ferry at gate 6. A bit further down…gate 2. At this point, we just follow the crowd waiting to get on the only boat…not really a ferry.
We are about 6 or so people from boarding and the line stops moving. A long phone conversation is had between a crew member and whoever is on the other end of the line. It is obvious our boat is exceeding capacity…but hey, trains, buses, why not boats. We are finally invited on board, squeezing past all the people who got up from the cafe before us.
With no other choice, I reluctantly leave my suitcase by the entrance of the boat and squeeze my way up top. There is no way I can endure this ride crushed in the small, enclosed cabin area below. I’m going to need some fresh air.
Up top, the early birds are sprawled out and comfortable. I get it…they were here first, but slowly a few people start moving their legs off the ends of their lounge chairs allowing others to perch. I decide to stay standing allowing a better vantage point for photos. But after 30 minutes or so, I ask the 4 people on a 5-6 person cushioned bench, if they could possibly just allow me to sit on the very edge of their bench. They simply stare. A lady across says, “She’s small…she won’t take up much room.” And the two closest to me scoot…just a tad. The other two…do not budge…not an inch. The two who are taking up the most room on the whole boat, refuse to give an inch.
Grumpy there was slathered in sunscreen, so I practiced this phrase.
Danita wanted to translate, “Your face is going to freeze like that”, but she figured that bit of wisdom would have come too late.
The entire ride people around us were complaining the boat is over crowded and this isn’t even the correct ferry. According to our tickets, we were to be on a bigger, faster ferry. Again…a delayed arrival in Positano. Buonvenuto Italai!
Once I got my perch, I was not concerned. I just sat back (kinda) and took in the view.
I have been to Positano once, that is if you count a couple of hours during a bus excursion down the Amalfi Coast. I was clueless how we were to negotiate this vertical city…with luggage.
If you ever come to Positano, please learn from our experience. When the Porters come by on their tiny “trucks” and ask if you want your luggage brought to your hotel, the correct answer is “Si. Grazie Mille.” If I knew now what I didn’t know then, I wouldn’t have lugged my suitcase up, up, up the first 70 or so stairs to the Chiesa. Although Danita did not have her suitcase, she did have several overstuffed bags traveling like, in her words, “a little lady in Mexico”.
By the time we made it to the level at the Chiesa, we were hot, confused and speaking for myself…a little disheartened. I thought perhaps I had made a mistake in adding Positano to the itinerary, Giada gushes aside.
We each have a brief phone conversation with our hotel, which was useless. While Danita stands with our bags, I do a quick info gathering trek…I came back with no answers, but I show her a picture of a shirt I saw.
Her response? “You went shopping without me?!”
With no cars/taxis in sight…we continue to head up, up, up, dragging my suitcase through the throngs of tourist in these narrow, narrow passageways.
I am just about to give up, when we spot a taxi…Danita approaches the driver and she tells us she’s reserved but another will be here in 2 minutes. Sure enough, minutes later, we are winding our way through Positano.
Months ago as we planned this trip, Danita took over securing our accommodations in Sorrento, Positano and Roma. So she gets ALL the credit for Villa Yiara.
Not only is Villa Yiara lovely, but Imara, the owner, is such a wonderful hostess. She assisted us with numerous issues and gave perfect restaurant recommendations every time. The Positano experience would not have been the same without her. Listening to her secure car transfers for us was like having our own Italian assistant while in Positano. Grazie Mille Imara!
Now for some cibo and a little exploration.
These are the FIRST set of steps (67 of them…I counted) we must go down each time we explore down from our room. And of course, what goes down…must come up. Throughout our stay, we wonder how older people or those not in shape can visit Positano.
Imara’s first recommendation of Caffe Positano is a perfect one. We have not eaten since our croissant and I vowed to go hearty. Risotto con gameretti, pomodori e limon is my choice. Danita chooses Fiori di Zucca Ripieni and a insalata
And like buoni amici, we share.
The view breathtaking, the food wonderful and nourishing…we are revived.
Luggage Update- Still not here…word is…it’s gone to Capri…most likely…
Our plan for Danita’s last day tomorrow is to spend it at la spiaggia. But without a suit, Danita shops for one…and I am ever so helpful.
“Are you opposed to purple sequins?”…
“What about beads and sparkles?”…
The hunt continues.
Down near la spiaggia, I see this little girl dragging her bucket benind her…who needs a puppy when you’ve got a bucket…so cute.
At la spiaggia, we scope out where we would like to spend our day tomorrow.
Originally we would have probably spent at least two days at the beach, but since our plans have changed a bit…we decide to splurge on just the one. Big reveal tomorrow.
On our way back up to Villa Yiarra, we stop choosing a bottiglie regionali di vino and plan to enjoy our terrazzo for the evening.
But as la Luna rose, we toyed with the idea of going out to get a bite to eat.
“Do you want to go eat?”
“No, let’s just stay in.”
OK…let’s go eat…
Ci vediamo domani!