Sunday, in most places, is a day to relax, a day to be with family. Here in Sorrento, that is no different.
I woke slowly this morning knowing the only item on my agenda was to eat, lunch or dinner, at Trattoria da Emilia. Waking at B&B Belvedere is much like waking in a home. You hear clanking of dishes, conversations (albeit in a number of languages), the smell of coffee. I lay there just enjoying listening to others begin their day. When I do emerge from Room 4, I am greeted in the kitchen by Ian and Mary; a couple from Australia that I met on the roof last night. They are about my parent’s ageish and very friendly. I was also finally introduced to Alfonso, the proprietor of this B&B. Alfonso is personable and very loud. Or maybe it is just my name that booms in an unfamiliar way off the italian tongue. PAJJJ. Anyway, Alfonso asked me if everything about the B&B and Sorrento itself was to my liking. I shared with him a few of my escapades and also mentioned Pizzeria da Franco. “Oh…thees-a eees-a our number one!” I tell him it is my number one too! For a leisurely Sunday, Alfonso suggested to both Ian and Mary and myself, that we visit Peter’s Beach…”Theesa-ees-a my beach.” he declares.
After a quick cappuccino from the kitchen…

I’m off.

Peter’s beach is reached by taking a lift from the terrace you saw me standing by yesterday. Although I arrived early, the area was already buzzing with both tourist and locals.
This time, I bite the bullet and pay 17 euro for a chair on the furthest pier and an umbrella. Walking and window shopping again today does not interest me, so this is a nice way to relax somewhere besides my room or the roof.

I love these little cabanas where you can change. There are rows and rows of similar ones locals rent. They use them to store their beach necessities during the summer months.

My view looking up at the terrace.

Vesuvio in the distance.

Thank goodness the young local’s hangout is separated by a cove of water. There are constant shouts of “oooohhhhh! aaaaahhhhhh!” as they try to impress by diving from the pier.

Fredda di cocco fresco an unexpected treat.

I enjoy several hours on the pier; people watching and reading my book. I am reading “The Night Circus” by Erin Morgenstern. Although unrelated to travel at this point, there was a passage that I felt applied to me and this adventure-

“It was something to be explored. He investigated it the best he could although he was woefully unprepared. He did not know what tents to choose out of the dozens of options, each with tantalizing signs hinting the contents. And every turn he took through the twisting striped pathways led to more tents, more signs, more mysteries.”

As I left the spiaggia, it was overflowing with sun and fun seekers.

My little spot was totally worth the 17 eruo!

Now time for lunch!

Finally, Emilia’s.

Gnocchi di Mamma

Although lower key in the fishing village, locals are still out enjoying a family day.

I was trying to be sneaky taking this sun god’s photo. He’s obviously out…all out….a lot!

There are carts and carts overflowing with fishing nets.

Lest you forget.

After lunch, I walked and walked. Soccer seemed to be the focus of many. Italy vs Uruguay was written outside many bars.
After my walk, I took the time to gather my thoughts and paperwork for tomorrow’s departure.

In the evening I walked Piazza Tasso one last time and ended up at Pizzeria da Franco (go figure). I ordered a small pizza to go. One last evening on the rooftop. The murmur of the piazza crowd was punctuated by shouts and car horns presumably when Italy scored a goal.

After reading a bit in my Rick Steve’s Guide, I was ready to take a look around.
I thought it would be best if I first prepared myself for tomorrow. The plan is to catch the early (early!) bus to Amalfi. So finding the station is a must.

Ok. Found the station. Also picked up the times for my train on Sunday morning. In Roma and Capri I had 5 days to sort things out. In Sorrento, my time is already seeming short…

I went ahead and bought a 24 hour bus ticket for tomorrow.

Bus Stop…check.

Place to grab a bite to take on the bus…check. Notice the name! Ciao Mamma!
Now with tomorrow’s morning lined up and ready…I am starving. The yogurt and espresso at 9:00 am has long worn off. Rick Steve’s suggests a few places but I like the sound of the most “homey” place down by the Marina Grande…of course it is the furtherest. Andiamo!
Sights of Sorrento streets-

Yes, I am aware that these are all food. I said I was hungry. However, I could not pass this place up. It was so crisp and chic.

I know you cannot see in very well, but the walls are a lavender with the robin’s egg window. This is the little room where they make the coffees. Can’t you see opening a place like this in that house on the corner of Austin and ….whatever that street is that goes to HEB by Market Platz. The entire time I was there, I was imagining that. Anyone in?

Although I was hungry…I am thirsty too.
I walk on….

Oh no, a tunnel. I am NOT a big fan of tunnels. I have scary dreams about them. I start in and then decide it is long and I do not know where I am going, so I turn around. Then I see a young boy and his father starting in and I think…ok….I’ll just walk fast. So I did. And on the other side…

The local spiaggia and a fishing village.

Now to find Trattoria de Emilia.

Found it!

I know it is a cruddy photo, but that HAS to be Emilia in the booth!! But guess what…chiuso….until 7:00….my long face does me no good here. I do however find another route back….and…

more tunnels, but shorter.
On my way to my 2nd choice, Inn Bufalito. But first….the spiaggia!

And finally…

In the trattoria I see this photo…man can I relate! I love the fact that she still cares though…the title was “Broken Beauty”.

An espresso and time to roam a bit more.

Look who’s here, “The Loren”…

The inside of this church was the softest pink and white, like the icing of a beautiful cake. The crucifix and stations were created with inlaid wood. This type of woodwork is a specialty of Sorrento.

At Saint Francisco’s I walk by in time to see the bride exit and the couple’s first kiss.

I think this is a hotel…magical.
Now back to the pastry shop for a bit of dessert and find a spot to watch the sun set.

A Dali exhibit is in town.

As I walk back to the hotel, I am going against crowds of beautifully dressed people. Their perfumes and colognes fill the air. This is the time of day that I miss my family. I return to my hotel, go to my rooftop and secure a ledge for one. A beautiful, sweet ending to a day in Sorrento.

First, let me apologize for any mistakes in my first entry this morning. I usually try to read over and make a few corrections before publishing, but I was in a bit of a rush. My plan was to catch the hydrofoil to Sorrento around 10:00.
I first settled my bill with Franco…375,00 euro for 5 nights! That converts to $489.00. $97.80 per night. That includes, waters, wine, limoncello, breakfast, laundry, shuttle/accompaniment, all the ciliegie and cetriolo (cherries and cucumbers) one could want, not to mention Franco and his famiglia!! “My GAAWWWDDD, can you imagine?” to put in Franco’s words.
I secured this reservation through Franco back in November 2012. He told me I was the first reservation of 2013 and that he would give me the 2012 rate and the very best room. I never knew until this morning what that rate would be.
Franco asked that I write a nice little recommendation on “The Trip Advisor”. “Can you imagine, Paj how nice-a your writing will be since you-a are-a a teacher!” I look forward to doing just that, but in the meantime, if you are in Capri….you know where to stay, Il Giardino dell Arte….and ask for Franco! Be sure to tell him Paj sent you.

Pietro loading my bags.

Franco accompanied Melinda (a young Swede) and me to the boat….all the way to the boat.

The boat from Sorrento arrives…

The boat to Sorrento departs.

One last look way up at Tiberio’s Villa. See the tiny, skinny statue sticking up on the edge?….yes I walked there! Molto pedi..

Melinda and…some Italian boat guy…he was working her very hard…you can tell she is trying not to laugh. She took a photo of him earlier, he asked to look at it. She told me (she speaks Swedish, Italian, German, French and English!!) he said he looked like a model in it and could she send it to him…he wrote down his email for her!

Arriving in Sorrento.

From the port, I grabbed the bus as my hotel had suggested. Asked if it were going to Piazza Tasso, Si. Hopped off at Piazzo Tasso. Asked a shop owner, “Scusi Signor. Quale strada Via Maio”? I followed the hand signals there…look for number 14 and Ecco!

oooo, I get to get buzzed in…

When I buzzed in Antonito asked, “You-a have-a big-a luggage?” One I replied.
Slap, slap, slap the flip-flops hurried down the stairs. Antonito arrives. He takes my luggage and says it will be brought up because the B&B is on the 6th floor (Just like in Roma, but no elevator). Then, Antonito tells me to follow him to the courtyard. He introduces me to his Mamma pointing up…”Ciao Paj! Buongiorno!!” Mamma is yelling down from the terrace above.
Then I see a rope with a hook and another rope with a small bucket. I follow the ropes and they lead to Mamma.

Antonito finds nothing strange about this….except my laughter….

I am to meet my luggage and Mamma on the 6th floor.

When I arrive, Paola, aka Mamma, greets me at the door. She shows me my room and then around the B&B.

My room.

My entertainment center?

musica e film….

The shared kitchen. “Everything-a is free-a. Wine, snacks, a lemon…”

View from the terrace off the kitchen.

And then Paola encourages me to go to the rooftop, “Look, go, prego!” she says pointing to her eyes. My 360 view.

I know nothing of Sorrento, so it is time to read a bit, look at a map and then Andiamo!!
ci vediamo tra un po ‘

This is the last morning I will enjoy my breakfast on this side of the Bay of Napoli.

Pietro is confused by my request of only fruit, yogurt and espresso. “Basta?” he questions.
Franco will be accompanying me to the port in about 45 minutes, so I will try to make this quick. Just a couple of notes before I leave Capri.

As I would walk to and from town each day, there was always a scattering of workers “working” on some aspect of the “road”. Imagine my surprise, and his utter confusion at my surprise, when a worker I had seen every day (very solemn guy) turned and I was greeted with…

He kept motioning me to get out of the way because there was another “truck” trying to get through. No way I was not going to get a picture of him….so Roll Tide from Capri. Oh they are going to miss me here…
Back to the guesthouse….
When I arrived yesterday, Franco was just finishing some work in his garden. “My Gawwwdd Paj! You see me like this….You don’t mind!?” He had on jeans and a white undershirt.
I asked him if I could get a photo with him this evening. “I go change imejiately Paj. Francesca will take our photograph!” Francesca rolls her eyes (often).
Franco reappears.

Then the conversations begin. Again, I cannot begin to share everything with you…during his speeches, I would tell myself to remember what he said, how he said it…I even took some quick notes afterwards, but I am “enough silly” and I cannot remember it all. Here is just a sampling-
I asked Franco what all he grows in his garden, “Come! I will show you.” While showing me, there is a story for everything. How “The Great Grandfather” told him to put the oils on the figs so they will ripen 15 days early. “Fifteen days Paj…can you imagine!?” I asked him if he does that every year, “I will tell-a you-a the truth Paj…..no.” Fair enough.

When I see the grapes, I ask if they make wine. “Yes, but I will tell you the truth Paj. Here in Capri, we make our wine, and we drink-a our wine….but I will tell you, here in Capri…we are ashamed of our wine…we are ashamed to offer to others.”
As we pass apricots, “Here…Paj….I pick-a this one for you….wait….no…this one is better….ok…both”

At this point I notice Franco has a little Kirk Douglas going on no?
Then the conversation turns to golf-a….sore subject….”I tell you Paj, these people of Capri are enough silly….we are enough silly I tell you. ” He goes on to share the “Revolution” of some wanting a golf-a course-a….a gentleman’s sport-a and then some silly, stupids do not.
I tell him maybe he should run for Mayor……”Oh my GAWWWD no Paj, I tell you….I cannot go to the square for five minutes….I do not have stupido written here.” Pointing to his forehead…
And my personal favorite…the conversation regarding his battle with Anacapri and better lighting for the road to the guesthouse. First he is told he can put in a private line….he tells the man that is crazy. Then the man suggests that “Since Franco…you only-a have five-a rooms-a,…why do you not buy five torches and give them to your guests?” To this Franco replies, “Well….I tell him, if theesa were Africa…yes that would be a fine solution….but we-a are-a not-a in Africa!”
I laughed and laughed.
It is now time for me to pack up and be accompanied…..I have LOVED Capri and I will return!

I sit on my terrace, a shawl helping me with the cool breeze. I have decided not to walk to the town this evening. I am tired but also want to soak in my view and the quiet (birds chirping, racing, beeping vespa’s in the distance) of Il Giardino dell Arte.
On my first night in Roma, I had dinner and was seated next to two older women from Australia. I might have mentioned this, I do not remember. We talked briefly, both saying they usually travel alone but this trip was together. They asked where else I would visit and when I mentioned Capri, they grimaced. They underscored this later by saying it was the end of their holiday and of all their stops, Capri was the worst, Rome their best. Their thoughts were that Capri was too crowded and not a very personal experience. I thought, “Oh great.”
But my experience here has been just the opposite. Yes, Capri proper is tight and crowded with tourist (“a market” says Franco), but it is still a thrill to walk through and see. The escape up to Anacapri is what many do not experience. Although there are absolutely beautiful hotels in Capri, hopping on the bus, getting off and having room to roam is special. Day after day and evening after evening passing the same children and locals heightens the experience for me.

Yesterday, I was hell-bent on finding the bakery where I had purchased the fried calzone. I had been looking for it ever since. This time, I was smart enough to take a photo of the bag to show people. I first gave it a hard try on my own. I would turn a corner, get hopeful and nope…not there. I even tried to make myself happy with a different treat, but somehow zucchini and tomatoes does not equate to prosciutto and formaggio! So I showed my photo. This way, that way…I still seemed to be crisscrossing. Finally I asked a little lady, she pointed the way. From a distance she called, “signora! signora!” and pointed for me to go left. A little later, our paths crossed again. She looked at me hopeful, I held up my prize in victory. She laughed and smiled.
I doubt that happens in Capri.

This morning my intention was to just hang out here; enjoy breakfast, write you, read, etc.
By the way, a tip for enjoying every last drop of your morning espresso, put your vanilla yogurt in the “empty” cup.

After I had done just that, I read a bit more about Capri and can you believe there is a spot I have not walked to (many in fact!). Off to Il Faraglioni. Andiamo!
I hopped a bus to Capri, walked through the city center, window shopped along their “Rodeo Drive”,

Not familiar with this one, but could not resist. Could it be??? No, My Blaine would NEVER have a weenie dog as his logo.
At this point, I am planning ahead. Perhaps I will need a bite to eat along the way.

It is important to taste the local treats! I put them in my borsa and continue on.

OK, on the right track.

“Movers…moving everything from bottled water to mattresses! Think about it, it has to be done.

Another beautiful walkway.

Swanky!

I have arrived.
I can either pay 20 euros and sit to my right,

Can you see the blue and white umbrellas beyond? On the rocks are beautiful white mattresses covered with towels…and beautiful people.
OR, I can pay 20 euros and sit to my left, (or ask if I might look around first and snapped a couple of photos),

OR…I can sit on the walkway in between the two, same view and enjoy the lunch I brought instead of buying theirs… I choose “C”.

I think this boat has it’s own beach on the back…wonder who is in town?

And of course I will need extra energy for the hike back up the mountain.

Lemon Squares, lower your heads in shame!! Meet

Now, back up way beyond that reddish house…

Il Faraglioni leaves us with one last thought…You will miss us….so true!

With the money I “saved” by squatting, I bought the perfume I have been wanting. Many in Italy, men and women, smell of this earthy scent. Mi piace moltissimo!

And the walk continues.

I wonder if I could parlare my way on to this terrace this evening. Can you imagine!?!

Look Blaine, painting is necessary even in paradise!

To look this bad, yet this good….
Back on a bus up to home.
The streets of Anacapri are much quieter. Daily I have passed by young children selling what looks to be their old toys…kinda like little garage sells. These are not street urchins, just local kids.
As I pass a group of boys today, one walks with me and says, “Please Signora” as he motions to his finery. “Please Signora, mangia gelato, Signora…mangia gelato” he says while holding his hands like a beggar. I laugh, say no and continue walking….but then I think, why not. So I dig in my borsa for coins that seem to have little purpose, walk back and tell him, “OK, but…” and I motion that he must pose for my photo. He grabs his friend and gives me his best (the one on the right). I give him the coins. They all get a big laugh out of this and I get shouts of “Grazie Signora! Grazie!” I hear them laughing all the way down the street….

It’s a WIN/WIN!

More “Conversations with Franco” in the morning.
Ciao!

Naturally every day on a vacation cannot be the best. Eventually a day must be, well just another day, right? Well il mio amico, today IS NOT that day.

I awoke late (says Franco). Told Pietro only fruit and espresso this morning (I want un altro fried calzone).

Done.
Franco says he will escort me to the bus stop, so we hop in this jeep/van thingy and head to town. As we pass the bus stop, a bus is just leaving. Franco says, that is no problem, “You look-a molto elegante, you must arrive by car.” -deal

As you have not “met” Franco yet, I decided to sneak you a peek as he was driving down the mountain. I will take a proper portrait at some point.

We arrive in Capri and Franco gives me a few suggestions. “You must-a see Tiberius’ Villa Jovis. When you are there-a, you will feel as if-a you-a are live-a the Roman-a civilization-a.” He draws me a line on the map. I am surprised how long it is. He tells me that if I am not tired afterwards, I should, as he draws another line, walk down Via Mantermania to see the grotto. “A lovely, gorgeous, sight-a.”
Tired? Does this guy know I conquered Rome via molto pedi?
Today I decided to wear the tunic that my sweet, sweet friend Angel designed for me. I thought it seemed perfect for Capri. Here, there are many chic people.

I wish you could get the full effect of this older couple. His pants are harem pants. I’d love a peek inside their closets.

Then there are those that have sharp dressed people to carry their Prada bags for them. The women with the white purse is the owner…of the bags and probably the carrier.

Then there are those of us who are window shoppers. Capri has a style all its own…picture Jackie O and Princess Grace. Many shops have their photos hanging in the windows.
As I walked the alleyways of Capri, the breeze blowing, I found that I kept tugging on my tunic, afraid that the breeze was blowing my slits a bit much for comfort. WIth hands full of camera, borsa, map, sunglasses, glasses, I thought I could not fight this all day. I knew it would make me uncomfortable and impact my day. So, when in Capri….I bought white linen capri pants, easily slipped on under my tunic and ready to roam!

Aaah ecco…this issue should be waiting for me when I get home.

Is this the cutest cafe ever? So crisp and happy.

If I were to ever stay in Capri proper, I would check this place out.
Now to follow Via Tiberio. Quite the address! To bring reality back to you, all you need to do is go into a “grocery store”. Everyone knows each other and jokes. The place is small, cramped and multi leveled. I just popped in for a water and something salty.

Oh look. Here are mom and dad’s favorites!
When I left the grocery, there was an older woman sitting with her pull cart full of groceries. A young man walked by and offered to begin pulling her cart up the HILL. Although I could not understand their exchange, it was cute the way she continued to thank him as he vanished in the distance. Later up the HILL, he passed what seemed to be some friends and again their exchange was funny. They seemed to be laughing that he had gotten roped into this task again. I guess he just leaves them at her walkway, hoping the milk does not sour before she arrives.

I wonder if they are accepting applications?

The sunlight through these flowers was amazing. The colors “crazy me”.

I am on the right track.
I have not stepped inside a church today, but it does not seem necessary in these surroundings.

If you look closely to the top left, the building and statue indicate where I am headed. No wonder Franco’s line was so long. However, it did not indicate the elevation!
Along the road (again, no more than 4 feet wide) I saw a little man step out, straighten his name tag, I assumed in preparation for my arrival. When I reached him, he began in Italian an invitation of sorts to the park off the road. hhhmmmm, I wondered. He was telling me that it will close at 2:00 and that it had “grande panoramicas”. I told him thank you but I was heading up to Villa Jovis. He went on in Italian….I am pretty sure he was telling me nicely that I was stupid not to enter. The Villa Jovis closed at 4:00 and his park at 2:00 and it was FREE. So, I decided what the heck.
Am I so glad I took this kind man’s advice. Grande Panoramica indeed!

On my way out, I thanked him profusely, “Tuto era Bello! Grazie Mille Signor! Grazie Mille.” We continued our conversation a bit. I made sure to ask him the name of the park. And then I took his portrait.

On to Villa Jovis.

Villa Jovis, Villa of Jupiter, is a Roman palace built by Emperor Tiberius and completed in 27 AD. It is said that Tiberius bought the island of Capri from Napoli and made it his own. There are the remains of a lighthouse which would convey his orders to Rome while he enjoyed Capri….sounds familiar….

This photo is with my flash on. I will admit that when I realized I must walk alone (no one else was about) through this corridor, I was a bit spooked…very cool though!

Ti’s chosen location was not only beautiful, but easily protected.
Now, back down the trail…and as my amico had said,

The park was closed.
The walk down was of course much easier than up, so when I came to the fork in the road that Franco had suggested I take if I were not tired, I had revived. On to Grotta di Matermania. Andiamo!
My continued energy was rewarded- An oasis within an oasis.

Out of nowhere pops up Il Grottelle.

I think I will! Ravioli Caprese per favore.
At this point I am wondering, is it worth it to go on? Could it get any better than this? But I decide Andiamo!
And again, rewarded!

 I was stunned as I walked up on this. I looked around for someone to say, “Can you believe this!!?” to. But I had to wait for you! I realize I am probably sharing too many photographs of the same thing but…..this is just a sampling of what I took. My only regret is that I could not get far enough back to capture the top of the arch and then the sky. The seagulls were showing off and I tried to capture them as well.
I told them they had chosen their home well! With the cool breeze it was difficult to leave this site. Seeing the boats below, I vowed to return with my family and lounge aboard one of those for a day. La Dolce Vita!

Continuing to peek as I walk back down to Capri.

“The Loren. Donna Sophia.”

Ciao Capri! Back home to Anacapri.
As I walked back through town, Antonio called out, “Signora, you are looking lovely as ever.” About that time, his son walked out of the shop with mine and Avery’s sandals in hand. It was like magic….how did he know I was approaching? This place is swarmed constantly! “I had been thinking about you” he said….and I wonder why business is SO good!
Antonio tells me I am the first Americana with this design….sounds good though doesn’t it. Then he shouts to his son the size I had told him Dalton needed in the loafer. Again, how do they remember this stuff?! Antonio says, “We are still waiting on your husband’s size?” I tell him yes. I ask if I should pay for the 3 now? His son replies, “You are the boss-a.” I take mine with me, they hang onto the other two waiting for Blaine’s size and then they will ship…for free….and as a “very special gift”….an Antonio Viva t-shirt….silly but cute.

Antonio tells me to send him a photo and tell me about the sandals, like an adoption of sorts I guess.

Another proud customer!
A short walk through town at the strolling hour.

Let’s try this again. This time cafe and stracciatella! and this time, VICTORY!
I return to il gardino just in time for the sunset. I ask Franco if he has another cetriolo (cucumber). “Paige, I will pick you one imejiately!” and he rushes to the garden, returns, presents it to me and ecco! dinner.