Tag Archives: Negroni

Lunedi a Firenze

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Before Avery arrived, I asked her to be considering things she wanted to see and do while in Florence.  The fact that I can walk around aimlessly for days, does not mean others care to.  With only four full days in the city, there were decisions to be made.

Her list consisted of a cooking class, vespa tour, seeing a few specific works of art, wine tasting, a possible day trip to Venice and simply enjoying Firenze.  A cooking class and the Vespa tour topped the list.  The day trip to Venice fell to the bottom.  Before she arrived, I secured a cooking class through Curious Appetite.  Il Mercato Centrale did not have classes that fit our schedule and I felt we could do better than the one I took through FlorenceTown (although I enjoyed it very much).  I was looking for a similar experience to Cooking in Rome with Chef Andrea…a bit more intimate. Our class was scheduled for Tuesday and the Vespa tour for Thursday.  I was surprised when I went to the site for the Vespa tour that the tours fill up quickly, so I am glad we are on their books.

Today, Monday, we simply plan to roam.  The major museums are closed on Mondays, so seeing the David and Botticelli’s Birth of Venus will have to arm wrestle with a day trip to Venezia for Wednesday’s itinerary.

I let Avery sleep as late as she liked then we start our day at Ditta Artiginale and  a seasonal Shakerato.  Ice coffee on a Florentine level.

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We decide not to grab a bite to eat here as we intend to make our way over to Pugi, correcting yesterday’s disappointment.

After a jolt of caffeine, we are raring to go.

The street art scene has not changed much in the past two years.  Blub an Clet are ubiquitous, but I am disappointed not to see much new on the scene.  Then roaming the Santa Croce area I see this.IMG_0610IMG_0632

At first I think the MALE at the bottom translates to “bad”… this piece moves up to my favorite yet.  Love the color, movement, space and graceful use of line.

We pop in to a book store searching for more Great Gatsby.

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I find comfort and intrigue in the ordered chaos of many Italian book stores.  When we asked the owner for Great Gatsby, he walked right to a shelf and started handing Avery book after book saying, “Fitzgerald, Fitzgerald, Fitzgerald…”

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And then finally, a hard back copy of Il Grande Gatsby.  I think this is such a cool thing to collect.  A friend of ours also just added to the collection, giving Avery a copy from the high school library…where it all began.

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Time for a bite to eat and this time, Pugi is aperto!

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I know I’ve probably already given this advice during this trip as well as previous ones, but if you are in Firenze…a stop in Pugi (the original across from Saint Mark’s) is a must. Danita named it one of the best bites of the trip and now Avery is a major fan as well.IMG_0604

For less than 3 euro, you can enjoy as much or as little of any topped flatbread style pizza you would like.  Our go-to’s?  pomodori, cipolla, salsiccia and peperoni.  This time Avery also tried a zucchine topping.  The girl loves her zucchine!

We stopped into Zara, although July is not the best time for a visit.  July is the month of Saldi in Italy and during a major sale, it is like Zara removes all the good stuff and brings in everything that hasn’t sold in the last 10 years or so….although I did snag my “molto elegante, molto chic” pantaloni last week.

I think roaming the streets of Firenze late, late in the night and early, early in the morning would be an adventure.  As much walking around as I have done, I have yet to see any street artist (besides the chalk artists) in the act.  I would love to see the process and speed at which they work.

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Later, Avery gives her overall trip an 8.5 out of 10 rating.  The heat of July is the culprit for losing an entire point.  No matter what the temperature reads, the fact that you are surrounded by radiating concrete, adds to it.

To combat the heat in Firenze, you have due choices…gelato or cocktail…

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You know I have been a major fan of Eduardo’s by the Duomo.  Elisa first brought me to it in 2015, and I had never been disappointed.  But after talking to several Foodies in Firenze, the two Gelaterias that come up are Il Procopio and Perque No!  Only the best of the best for my figlia.  We find Il Procopio in the Santa Croce area and Avery chooses Limone e Basil…refreshing, tart and light.  We decide trying to recreate this for guest would certainly wow!  Avery wants to take it a bit further by making a prosecco float with it.  That’s my girl!

Gelato…check…

Next stop…Aperitivo…

Enjoying the Aperitivo Crawl with Curious Appetite gave me insight to places I had not been before.  Now, I get to share that “research” with others.  And the most impressive Aperitivo to date? The Fusion Negroni at Fusion Bar, Vicolo dell’Oro, 3, Firenze.

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I will admit, the presentation of this classic Florentine cocktail is a big part of the fun, but the libation itself is worthy of all praise…Well, confession…this is the only Negroni I have ever had…so I really can’t compare to others…but now, others WILL be compared to it.

I want Avery’s first Negroni experience to be as memorable as mine and if that means I must endure another…I’m just that kind of a mom.

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Salute to Firenze, to Count Camillo Negroni, to ice spheres, to Mother/Daughter adventures, to Italy, to Aperitivo, and to all that is good and special in our world.

Cin!Cin!

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Fortified by rest, munchies and gin we begin our walk to Piazzale Michelangelo to catch the setting sun.  Once we are Oltrarno, I just start heading left and up, “knowing” this will get us to our desired destination.

A bit in to the trek, I think, “gee…this is a bit steeper than I remember…oh well, no matter, we’re headed in the rightish directions.”

A little bit further, a girl who had been walking ahead of us stops, turns and asks, “Is this the way to the fountain at Santo Spirito?”  uuuhhhmmm….no…not at all.  I give her rough directions and she retraces her steep climb.

IMG_1407A bit later, I see a sign for Forte di Belvedere.  I “know” Fort Belvedere and Piazzale Michelangelo are both high and to the left…so again, I think we’re good.  Avery questions me a bit, I answer leaning into the slope but not slowing my pace.  I tell her (now that I am starting to wonder) that no matter what, we’ll figure it out.  Luckily there was still much light in the sky, because if it had been dusk, I too would have been a bit worried.  There were very few people about.  The two separate people we did see were crashed among the olive trees along the medieval walls of the Fort.

What goes up…must go down.  Turns out Forte di Belvedere is quite a bit higher than Piazzale Michelangelo, so we get a bit more of exercise in for the day.

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We end up being spit out at the arch in the wall along the passage I “usually” take to our destination.  So, a bit more of a hike…up the long stairway…and we arrive…easy as that…

The crowd is huge, everyone vying for a spot along the wall to get a couple of hundred shots.  Each time I visit, I am thankful Mike and Joann told me about this place…another MUST on any visit to Firenze.

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Avery and I, like everyone else, took many shots of the setting sun with its rays dancing through the clouds.  Each moment brought another ooohhh or aaahhh.  To be honest, I don’t know if these are our best shots, I’m just choosing a couple to share.  I know I will never get a better one than the one from 2013.

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On our way down, we decide we’d like a nice, light dinner and a nice, bicchiere di vino freddo.  We stop in the San Niccolo area and enjoy just that.

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We are seated next to a young guy and girl who exert so much energy being negative.  I can’t decide if they are American toying with English accents or actually English.  Either way they are a reminder of one of my favorite aspects of traveling in Italy…Ignorance is Bliss…what I can’t understand, doesn’t bug me…what I can….does.

 

Aperitivo Tour? Si Grazie!

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You know I do my share of roaming and research, but after several days of going solo, I was up for some guidance and expertise. 

Previously when I checked with Coral Sisk of Curious Appetite about booking her Aperitivo Tour, she said this week was the only week it was not offered. She prefaced this sad news with “Super Bummer”.  Then, outta the blue she contacted me and said it had opened up and was I still interested?  Si Grazie!!

We were to meet 18:30 in front of Procacci on via Tornabuoni. Several mornings I have woken up saying, “Today, I visit Procacci”, but I’ve yet to. So, this is perfetto. 

Shortly after I arrive (yes, just a tad early), three girls about Avery’s age walk up verifying with their phone map that they have arrived at the correct spot.  I walk over, introduce myself telling them I am sure we are in for a treat. This will be my 3rd (a 4th scheduled for when Avery arrives) event with Curious Appeite and I have had great experiences. 

Within moments Coral arrives,  Let the tour begin. 

Procacci is our first stop. 


“This delicatessen was founded by Leopoldo Procacci in 1885 and, due to its historical, artistic and artisan heritage, it quickly gained an excellent reputation with the Florentine population for its gastronomic delicacies made with truffles (King Vittorio Emanuele II even made the shop an official supplier to the royal family, granting its founder, Leopoldo Procacci, the right to include the royal coat of arms on his signage). Savoring these specialties continues to be a popular ritual both with Florentines and visitors.”

We sample the Antinori family Prosecco,

paired perfectly with the dainty truffle sandwich they are know for.  

Coral educates us on the difference between champagne and prosecco. We learn prosecco is meant to be enjoyed young.  I look forward to finding (and pricing) this crisp, clean prosecco at home. 

Walking to our 2nd destination, Coral shares some history of Piazza Repubblica. 

The Column of Abundance is a 1956 replica.  The original was erected in 1431 at a crossing of the ancient Roman city. 

A little food, a little drink, a little art, a little history, a little more food and drink…my kind of tour. 

Next stop,

Osteria Nuvoli. As I prepare to take an exterior shot, one of the purveyors teases me saying I can take the photo, but because he is famous, I cannot sell it…deal. 

Coral is excited to bring us here. She said usually the groups are too large to visit this establishment. Curious Appetite caps their tours at 6 people, that should give you an idea how small this place is. 

Before heading down to the cellar, I notice these strips of paper blowing in the breeze. I ask, “Que significa?” The guy waiting on us proceeds to tell Coral that these are Treasure Hunts of sorts. He then goes outside and pulls one from its hiding spot and explains further. 

He says people hunt them, find them, then sign them. I say, “Like geocaching?” He lights up and says, “Si! Geocaching!” He then rolls the treasure back up and retucks it away. 

The girls and Coral can’t believe I’ve noticed something so seemingly insignificant. I tell them when you travel alone, you notice a lot…and you learn to ask questions. 

Now for the real treasure. 

In the cellar we are treated to an abundance of local carni e formaggi as well as both un vino bianco e rosso. All molto buono. 

With the wine, food and fun conversation, I think we could have stayed here all night but Coral tells us we have one more stop to make. 


We go from local rustic to local swank. This place and the cocktails prepared for us left me speechless. 

Before we begin, Coral gives us a couple of folklore tales about the Negroni. 

Here’s a bit of background from Food & Wine-

“1919, The Beginning: The story of the Negroni begins at the Caffè Casoni in Florence. There’s no documented historical account, but it is believed by cocktailians that Count Camillo Negroni invented the drink when he ordered an Americano made with gin in place of the usual soda water. It was a success and not long after, the Negroni family founded the Negroni distillery, which produced a ready-to-drink version of the cocktail that they called Antico Negroni 1919.

1947, Word Spreads: Orson Welles made one of the first documented remarks about the cocktail. He tried one while on location in Rome and commented to the Coshocton Tribune, “The bitters are excellent for your liver, the gin is bad for you. They balance each other.” ”

This was my first and I am sure it will never be topped. 

Our cocktails were brought to us in a clear box filled with smoke. When Roberto opened the box I wasn’t sure if I was at Mass or a cocktail bar. The scent that escaped was fuised with herbs and spices. 

For four Southern gals (the girls I’m with are from Georgia) this was a cocktail on a whole new level. 

The accompanying “snacks” dazzled as well. 

Coral advises us to drink up, as we’ve got one more Negroni to go. 

To my left appears Roberto again, this time with Negroni Chianti for all.  Lovely cut glass with hand chiseled ice cube and a spiced version of a classic Negroni. 

Oh and of course this cocktail came with its own sidekick. 

What an evening! Coral does an amazing tour and she is so generous with her time and talents. We definitely went over the 2.5 hours advertised. 

When it was time to say our goodbyes, Coral asked the girls what their plans were for the evening. They said they had none. So, you know me…I asked them if they had been Oltrarno.  No? Andiamo!

I took them on a quick spin to some of my favorite spots near my appartamento.  They commented that maybe being a tour guide is in my future…I said I had no desire to be part is someone’s hopes and dreams…too much pressure. 

Buona notte nuovi amici. Buona notte di Firenze. Buona notte luna.