Hotel Margherita is the largest hotel I have stayed in thus far.

It is sleek and modern with 31 rooms. I actually feel as though I have “sold out”. I feel that my money is benefiting a company and not a family, as my other stays have. But as overall budget comes into play, their rate was considerably better than our old hotel right across the “street”.
Hotel Margherita offers a huge breakfast buffet in the mornings complete with local baked goods (so…I am benefiting Laura and her famiglia right?). The only drawback of the generous breakfast is the 6 in one “cafe” machine…kinda feel like I am at Jek’s.

My new “office”….here at Hotel Margherita, the wifi works indoors and out….wooohoooo!

Directly behind my office.

The street to the right of my office.

October of 2011, 2 of the 5 villages were devastated by a flood. Many, many business in Monterosso and virtually all in Vernazza were destroyed. After a busy, tiring summer tourist season, the locals had to survive, assess and rebuild. If you were not aware of this tragedy, you would not even notice. However, you would likely be annoyed at the construction going on around you during your holiday. Knowing helps us to appreciate and understand. Eduardo, who seems to be the hotel manager, stands out on the terrace frustrated with the Italian governments timing. He stands shaking his head wondering aloud (but under his breath) why this road rebuilding could not have waited until October. “It is July, ” he says “and this town relies on the tourist. But with the Italian government, if-a you-a complain….there can be more trouble. So…it eeesa best to just watch.” “Still-a…I do not-a understand-a. Eeeat-a is July!” I assure him, this kind of government timing is everywhere.

After breakfast, I decide to go on a hike to the neighboring town, Vernazza.

Since I have been here, this man has not left his perch.

The trailhead begins past the hotel nestled on the side of the mountain.

Renting one of these…floating fun…looks like a fab idea. Blaine and Dalton can peddle, while Avery and I slide and sun….somehow I think it would work a bit differently…

But alas….this trail (and many others) are closed for maintenance. Supposedly this one will reopen Friday.

So I regroup as I walk.

This little restaurant, Il Casello, is a family favorite. I learned last night from a guy wearing a UT shirt that the owner of one of the restaurants up on this cliff, has a home in Austin. I figure I need to check it out. And yes indeed, Bacco does live in Austin in the winters. He has married an American and his children go to school there. They live in Steiner Ranch. He says the activities for the children are much better and very organized. He also mentions that the houses are much bigger, “If it rains for a few days, the kids-a can stay inside.” Things we do not think about. I tell him goodbye promising during my stay I will come to eat, a couple of times.
It was funny, as I was talking with him, an American man came up to pay. The bill was 20 something and he only had 100. Bacco did not have change so he asked the man if he could come back and pay later. Nice.

Dormant fishing nets.

No Bocce today? che succede?

chiesa di San Giovanni Battista

<img src=”https://girlinroam.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/20130704-145716.jpg” alt=”20130704-145716.jpg” class=”alignnone size-full chiesa di San Giovanni Battista

I think this photograph of the statue of Saint Theresa would make a beautiful prayer card.

I decide to begin a longer hike up through the mountains. I have no intention of doing the full 4 hour hike, but I begin…but first a bit of nourishment. Anchovies or acciughe are a seafood staple around here. I give a stuffed one a try.

Very good.
I see people walking around with little folded cones full of these fried…I will try that before I leave.
My walk begins going all the way up Via Roma, which is the street my hotel is on.
Although I cannot say I “enjoyed” the entirely uphill trek, I consider that it balances out some of my food intake.

At the beginning of the trail, I noticed a few boxes of necessities. I wondered how that poor person will get their purchases up to their place. A few moments later, this guy comes down with his little, loud machine….that’s how…a tiny, little flatbed. People LIVE like this.

As you can tell the day was a bit cloudy. It is funny how the locals apologize for it. I welcome the cool, damp air.
During my “hike” there is a woman about 40 yards ahead of me. Every once and a while, she stops, panting and resting as I am. I am sure my presence is pushing her on a bit…like I am, she is trying to save face. About an hour into the hike and nowhere near a point of leveling out…here she comes starting back down. “No more?” I ask. She says that her kids are at the beach but this seemed more enjoyable to her. “Nice views but it is a bit heavy, no?” She says she has a ferry to catch. I walk on another 20 minutes or so then think…maybe I should catch a ferry as well.
I go back to the room, shower, change and nap (my 2nd of the trip). I think since the coastal trail is to open on Friday, what have I got to prove?
After my nap, I decide I am ready for another train ride. The trains between the 5 towns run frequently and cost less than two euro.
Eduardo recommends a bar in Riomaggiore that has the best aperitivo in the 5 towns. He says it is on top of a “how you say-a….rock-a” and has an amazing view. Sounds good to me.
Riomaggiore it is!

A mural at Riomaggiore station depicting life in the Cinque Terre.
Eduardo had told me the bar was to the right of the train station up some steps. Before I go there, I take a left into the historic city center.

Instead of more pane, I choose a fritto di gamberi e calamari cone.

The calamari was the best and obviously freshest I have ever had…I make “cone” the theme of my evening.

This little eggplant guy cracks me up.
When I enter the stand to buy some cherries (in a cone), the owner says the eggplant “ees-a his-a friend-a”.

Although Via dell’ Amore is closed, I walk to the gates.

Via dell’ Amore was named after young lovers from different villages would meet here. The trail was created in the 1920’s after the 2nd train line came. Before that, villagers rarely married outside their own. The trail was established as a meeting point for boys and girls from the neighboring towns. A journalist coined the pathway’s now established name, Pathway of Love.
And while I visited….a young couple was having their wedding portraits done.

These are my no doubt, much cheaper version!!
Finally I reach the bar Eduardo had suggested, Bar and Vini, a pie’ de Ma’. And what a wonderful recommendation it was!

There it is out on the rock, as seen from the train station.
After my wine, I walk down to the marina.

I return home to Monterosso for dessert and then it is off to bed.

Easy come, Easy go
Paola bid me a silent wave as I left the B&B before most were awake.
Today was mostly a travel day. The first bit of travel was to lug my belongings the 15 minute walk to the Sorrento stazione.
As I had been planning this adventure for awhile, I was bound and determined to travel as light as possible. I did not excel in that department. First of all I have a borsa AND a carry-on size bag. I wish the purse would have been sufficient. But when you start adding your last minute items like chargers, a small blanket, medicines and toiletries incase your luggage were to get lost, ipad, a couple of kind bars, water….your borsa runneth over. I probably could have fit everything in the little carry-on (kinda the size of a gym bag….only snazzier!) but then I have to lug it around all day every day. Anyway, to do it all over again (hopefully someday), I might have a different approach.
All this to say it was a bit of a challenge to get the Ferrari’s (my red suitcase) hood closed.
But I made it to the station, no problems.
My plan was to take the 9:07 to Napoli….have I already gone over all this? If so, sorry. I thought I would be more comfortable waiting in the Sorrento station instead of the notorious Napoli one. Since I arrived 45 minutes or so before my chosen train, a couple more loaded and departed. Finally the little lady cleaning (thankfully) the glass around the station tried to encourage me to get on board….at 9:07, I did.
Now this is the commuter train that runs several times an hour between Sorrento and Napoli. Graffiti rules here. Little did I know there were 30+ stops between my two cities. Good times.

I did tip these guys. I know I probably should not have. Most savvy travelers just kept their heads down, but I give them credit. Sure “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” was barely discernible, but I am on holiday and it adds to the mood. When they passed my car and were entering the next, their serenade slid off in an unrehearsed stop….I am assuming they were to told to stop by an “official”. So later when the young, young boy entered with his accordion, dripping with things to pull at the heart; holy cards, crosses, a picture of his mamma, I put nothing in the attached Pringles can. Anyway, all he was doing was opening and closing it. He would need to use the money for lessons and I doubt that is where it would be going.
With each stop, the train fills to the brim. A moment or two before my designated exit, an older man gives me a nod, as if to say, “Hey lady tourist…this is the one you will want.” Luckily, I had read ahead in my Rick Steves’ and he alerts you to the fact that you actually want to get off one stop ahead of the last one; Garibaldi. The central station is just up the escalator.
In Naples, I have just 20 or so minutes before my train to Rome departs. I look on the board and cannot find my departure time. I ask an “official” , he pulls me aside, makes a call on his walkie talkie and tell me “diciassette” and then REAL slowly “O N E….S E V E N”. Thank you kind sir.
I board the train (the fast, really nice one…quite a contrast with the last) even though it says it is going to Milano. I ask a couple if it indeed stops first at Roma and they tell me yes. Perfetto.
The people on this train are not the same ones on my commuter. Gucci, Chanel, Hermes, Louis Vuitton luggage everywhere….the sound of my peasant plastic bag disrupts the mood as I dig for a biscotti.
I arrive in Rome and I feel like a pro.

From there I make my next connection. This time on a older, slower train. Oddly enough, still headed for Milano. I make my way past the worn seats making the mistake of looking at the head rests. Although they have the kind of paper covers that are to be changed each excursion…to ensure sanitation, these are gray and ragged. I take seat number 87 and lean forward the entire journey.

I have arrived.
Each time I change locations, I contact the B&B I am staying in as to avoid any issues. In Chiusi I have booked Albero di Gameli. Milena, the owner, has told me via email that she can pick me up at the station. Walking through the small station, a beautiful, young woman approaches me smiling. “Paj?” she says. In tow she has two precious, dark haired girls, both in pink from head to toe.
Milena drives to the B&B as she shares points of interest along the way.

Albero di Gameli
The B&B is lovely and the scenery, although different from my recent costal vistas, breathtaking.

The day jumped between cloudy and hazy so the pictures are not fabulous. But look at the hills in the far distance. They give the illusion you are looking at a painting when you are indeed standing right there! Perfect for a study of Atmospheric Perspective next year…
Milena shows me to my room.

I have never been a lavender girl but I have appreciated the calming, welcoming effect it has. My last room in Sorrento was lavender and that oh so cool indoor/outdoor restaurant used lavender in its color scheme.
My first order of business in Chiusi is to figure out a way to lighten my load. I discuss this with Milena. She makes a few calls, Fedex and the like. Then she decides to take me to the post office. It is excursions like these that make a trip I tell ya! It is also people like Milena and Franco. I did not have “family” in Italy and now I feel like I do. They are wonderful.

Without Milena’s help, I could have never communicated all of this.

Putting together our grande scatola gialla.

Done.

I think even the postmaster lady got a kick out of all this. When we left and I was thanking all, she gave me her best “Bye-Bye” with a huge smile.
I feel lighter all ready!!