Venerdi a Firenze

A few days before leaving for Italy, I ran across a June Calendar of Events for Florence.  Included for June 12 was an Astromonia Event in the Duomo.  I contacted the given email address and quickly received a reply…in Italian…that when I translated said, “if this email was for the 12 of June, then he has a reservation”.  I thought that seemed clear enough.  So on my agenda today was to attend Astromonia Gnomom and meet later tonight with Angela, Elisa’s older sister.  Something in the morning, Something in the evening…a good day.imageAs I roam to the Duomo, I watch for a few minutes as a store window and entry way come to life transporting the customer Over the Rainbow.  On my studio602 instagram, I later capture the interactive window to the left.

On the printed response from the Duomo, there is a point of entry given.  However, my Friends of Firenze are not familiar with this entrance.  I see a line at the front and 2 lines to the side.  When I show the email to one of the guards, he points me, in italian, to what I think is the other entrance along the side.  There are about 50 people in this line so I figure it is my best bet.  I still have a little less than an hour before the “event” begins…whatever it is.

When I make it up to the 2nd guard, I show him the email and he “entra”, and points me to another guard in the middle of this massive Duomo.  I would like to stand and soak it all in for a moment, but fear I might lose my “escort”, so I continue to go from guard to guard until I, with about 30 others, are the nave off the left side of the main alter.  This area is closed to the visiting public.  I begin to take a seat in the front row, but am told by photographers, not to sit there…or at least I think that is what the words and hand motions meant.  I move to an end seat on the 3rd row.  Organize myself briefly, and then begin to take in where I am.imageI am now seated under the same dome I climbed to the top of 2 years ago.  If you see the dotted row of lights, it is a walkway on the interior before you begin the claustrophobic climb up to the opening at the center.  The magnificent Renaissance dome was designed by Filippo Bruelleschi.  The cathedral was begun in the 13th century with the dome added in the 15th.  I am in here….right now! imageThe biggest artwork within the cathedral are Giorgio Vasari’s                           ( commissioned by the Grand Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici)  frescoes of the Last Judgement (1572-1579).  They were designed by Vasari but painted by his student Frederico Zuccari.  Other themes taken from Dante’s Divine Comedy were added as well.  When looking up at these vibrant depictions, little doubt is left in one’s mind of the eternal outcome of actions and choices.

So I sit and wait.  The chairs fill up as well as the standing room behind them.  Dark figures of visitors circle above adding to the presence of the frescoes.  In the audience, there seem to be only Italians of all ages.  Grandparents have brought grandchildren, scholars have hushed conversations, press have their cameras poised and their notebooks ready…and then there is Paige.

So let us cut to the chase here.  This photo shows the spot where the sun is suppose to cross, on this day, as its beam enters the cupola-  aligning itself perfectly in the larger circle.  imageThere is an older gentleman that takes a seat in the center, checks the microphone by blowing into it, and then begins to enlighten me…us….ok, them.  I begin to tally the times he says “alora” which means, “ok, then, let’s see”.  I also tally molto “va bene” as he checks the understanding of the group before he moves on.imageSlide after slide is shown.  With them comes head nods and some chatter of awareness.  I can only understand “finestra” (window), “piccolo finestra” (small window) “giugno” (june)….you get the idea.

And then a collective gasp as he points to the beam of light that is now hitting the wall of the Duomo.  He continues to talk and show his slides, but people are now jockeying for photo positions.imageThe circle of light draws nearer and nearer to the moment we have all been waiting for.  I am starting to feel a little silly, but don’t want to exit and miss the big event or offend anyone.

As shown in my, oh so professional photo below, the light is about to enter the circle when….when….a cloud blocks the beam.  It was almost comical.  There was a collective slump as we waited.  When the cloud moved…you guessed  it, the light was on the opposite side of the circle.  I have to chuckle even as I am writing this.  At this point, individuals are starting to leave, but the Grand Astronomer continues.  I collect my things, duck and go.imageAfter this…excitement…Ho fame. So I begin my walk for something to eat.  As I enter the area of Santa Croce, I see preparations for the Calcio Storico (Historic Football) continue.  I would REALLY like to see this event.  They say it is barbaric.  Elisa told me although she has never attended, that the only rule is to win.  For several years it was forbidden because the injuries were many and great.  Supposedly many of the players come from prisons.  Sounds scary but fascinating as well.imageI ask about where I might get tickets for this event and am told the way to the “box-a office-a”.  So I head in the direction pointed out on my mappa.  When I arrive, I am told that Sunday’s final match is sold out but there are tickets for Saturday.  I leave empty handed as I already have plans with Constanza on Saturday.

I uscita the box-a office-a and take a moment to look at a mappa to see where I am.  I notice a couple of blocks away is the Museo di Casa Buonarroti.  I figure it would be rude to be this close and not pay my respects.  So I begin to navigate.  When I am hungry, my skills are not as sharp and I track back and forth the same 2-3 blocks determined to find it.  Finally, a beacon.imageYes, this next photo is an “illegal” one, can you tell.  I would say you could skip this point of interest on your next visit to Firenze.  I have shared with you the highlight here…imageAs I uscita the museo, I see a Clet I have not seen before.  How appropriate near Michelangelo’s casa.imageAfter the museo, I decide to head to the train station to purchase my ticket to Pontassieve tomorrow.  The station is bustling.  I wait in a short line to use the automated trenitalia machine. imagePunch the correct buttons, put in my 3.4 euro and receive my ticket.imageI’m pretty proud.imageOn my way back to the appartamento, it begins to rain again.  Those spots on Lady with an Ermine are raindrops.  Moments later, she will be no more.imageI cleaning up a bit and I begin my walk to Stazione Leopolde.  This is to be my meeting point with Angela.  I walk along the Arno in the opposite directions of Piazzale Michelangelo for about 1 mile.  At one point, a Vespa zooms by and I laugh seeing what looks to be da Vinci riding with his beard and hair flowing in the wind.

It is fun to discover different areas of a town.  Ones that the typical tourist does not experience.  When I arrive at the old, abandon stazione, I use my italian phone to text Angela.  At that moment, a car pulls over and a girl with short, full hair checks her phone…it must be Angela reading my text.  And it is.  Ciao Angela!  I am so appreciate of her willingness to take me to visit her friends.

I hop in the car of yet another stranger I have never met and am whisked to the country side.  We are headed to the agriturismo of Angela’s friend Massimo located outside Malmantile.imageimagewe find Massimo and his friend (another) Elisa preparing the grill when we arrive. Massimo works for a bank in Florence and Elisa is an interpreter.  They are both very kind and welcoming.  Massimo is warm and humorous sharing his approval (or disapproval in the case of Pisa) on my future agenda.  Massimo speaks very good english but laughs and says he fears he sounds like a “Native-a American-a” in the american movies, speaking in present tense when something is is needed.imageAfter a short while, 2 other guests arrive,  Lorenzo and Francesca.  Lorenzo is a vet originally from Siena and Francesca is in the fashion industry.  This excites me and I question her a bit about it.  She is a seamstress and works for many houses; Dolce & Gabbana, Vivienne Westwood, etc.  She tells me that this next week is Fashion Week in Florence and that she is very busy.  I show her some photos of my students during a Design Challenge I gave them.  They had to create a garment to wear to their 8th grade dance using only newspapers, tape, scissors and an old art book.  She looked through the photos and said, “Yes…that is me.”  She also got a kick out of the short video I had of them “walking the runway”.  Seeing a couple of the student designs and executions, she said, “Ah…Brava!”.  High praise indeed!

Angela met Massimo and Lorenzo while taking a sommelier class together.  Wine was, as I guess always is, a topic of conversation.

imageMassimo’s toast, “To Florence and Texaaass”.  Cin Cin!

Our wonderful meal al fresco consisted of Affettati, Pasta con Pomodori, and Bistecca alla Fiorentina.

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We enjoyed due Chianti.  One, Il vino di mio padre (Lorenzo’s only english of the night was when he translated Massimo’s introduction of the wine, “The Wine of my father”, which was met with “Bravo” from all) and one from Lorenzo’s collection.  I asked Lorenzo and Francesca about La Volpe e l’uva and they knew it well.  Even being familiar with the wine and many people in the photos I showed from last night.imageimageThe comfortable evening ended with a wonderful torta brought by Angela.  I had due pieces not getting enough of the sweet of the cream and the crunch of the meringue.  Molto buono!  Brava Angela!!image

After a lively discussion and production of the many ways to make cafe in ones Moka, Angela and I hopped in her car and made our way back to Firenze.  As we are driving, I am recounting the concern I shared with Elisa of having to walk too far late at night like this (almost 1 am).  Angela assured me she could get me close.  Although cars are restricted to enter the city center during the day, it should (should…did I understand “should”) be open at this hour.  Well, our first point of entry was not.  At our 2nd and 3rd attempt, we were once again met with a red light.  If Angela were to pass, a fine would follow.  At this point, I will be honest, I am nervous.  She is doing her best, no doubt, but I am still nervous.  In the end, she lets me off at the Biblioteca Nazionale where I met Elisa earlier in the week.  Angela says it is a Friday night and should (again this word “should”) be very safe.  It is located right at the Arno and figure I can make the mile quickly to my appartamento.  I pass strollers and lovers, students still out for the night, glance down alleys to find people still chatting the night away and safely make it back to my “home”.

 

Arte, Cibo e Vino

My plan for today was to not have much of a plan.  I knew I needed/wanted to get caught up with writing you.  That and the Uffizi were at the top of my short list…Oh and yes, I was to meet Costanza, one of Elisa’s friends today at 5:30.  So as you can see, even when I have  nothing to do…there is ALWAYS something to do in Firenze.

Today, number one on the plan, writing you, was like every other day trying to write you…non cosi buono.  I tried writing in my appartamento, couldn’t get much to “stick”.  Although I do have wifi, I think it is solo un po.  For example I can write using the application “what’s ap”, but I cannot get email or for that matter, send email.   So I decided instead of throwing the ipad out the finestra, I would put it in my backpack, head to the Uffizi, then after that go to lunch at Mercato Centrale where they have wifi.

I made my moka (that is what the little “machines” are called that each appartamento and home has several sizes of) drank the entire amount and hit the streets.imageI am still loving Blub and on the look out for him everywhere.  Most works I recognize the art or artist.  Some…not so much.  For example, I have no idea who the hooded couple is, and I think that is Rock Hudson on the left.  But of course on the right is a Magritte mash up.

I have a few notes of places to eat that are a “must”.  I have gathered this short list from other blogs, the food channel and friends.  This morning I am on the look out for “Cucciolo”.  At this pasticceria you are suppose to find the best bomboloni around.  I think I should give it a try but feel sure it cannot surpass one I stumbled upon on my last visit.  And as I approach, I smile.  This is the exact place I stumbled upon.  I remember coming in need of a place to sit, cool off and have a snack  and being so taken by my sweet, crunchy find.imageI find this a testament to a serendipitous adventure…  You end up where you are supposed to end up.imageI think after I successfully (cross your fingers…I am once again losing photos AND the keyboard/ipad relationship is choosing to give me double letters when I type) post this latest entry, I will head back over.

On a caffeine and sugar high, I head to the Uffizi.  I find one door with a line and one door without a line….I do not have a ticket yet, so I decide to try the one without the line..  To my surprise I go right in, buy my ticket, think they are going to direct me to the line, ma no…in I go.imageI like going to museums alone.  I find it very difficult to adapt to someone else’s rhythm or expect them to adapt to mine.  I purchase the audio guide  and begin my walk.  This is my third visit to the Uffizi, but each time  (as with any museum) I walk into a gallery or room and my breath catches with the realization that I am standing in front of such work.  This is NOT a slide I am showing during a Monday Art History lesson, this IS THE Birth of Venus.  This IS THE Doni Tondo.  I know the Uffizi receives millions of visitors each year, but it still feels special to be in such company.image

As I look closely at Parmigianino’s  Madonna with the Long Neck (1534), I see the small man to her left.  Students often point this out and want to discuss. This time, I notice something more.  Number one, the transparency of the man-  how you can see the background through him, but also the lone foot next to him.  Observing a painting is unfinished lends an added mystery to it.imageNear several works of art, I notice these smaller, dimensional white pieces.  These are to allow the vision impaired to experience the masterpiece as well….very cool..imageOne of the last galleries I enter contains the work of Raphael Sanzio (1483-1520).  As I am admiring, I am also getting a bit tired and a bit hungry.  I take a step back and lean, ever so lightly, on a small metal bar.  With my peripheral vision, I notice part of a frame.   I think, “Yipes Paige…Don’t knock over a sign or something.”   When I turn to look, Raphael is giving me this look.  imageNope, not a Uffizi sign directing us to the uscita/exit….Raphael himself. Scusami Raphael!

Before I make a headline, I uscita the Uffizi and head to Mercato Centrale. Of  course I did not want to just take their wifi for free…that would be rude…so I ordered Burrata Bruschetta and un bicchiere di vino bianco…just to be polite.image

Another long, blogging issue short (because I know any complaints I have will be met with molto poco di pieta) working at the Mercato did not go as planned either. So, I decided to head back to my appartamento, ditch  technology, switch to a smaller borsa and head out to meet Costanza.

A little background first.  You now know Elisa and how I stumbled upon her.   We emailed back and forth and skyped once. We had plans for the two of us to meet several times during the first part of my stay and simply walk the streets of Firenze, she educating me on the city and the language.  Well, before my arrival, Elisa found out she needed to take an exam during my stay  and to do well on that exam, would need extra time to study  (Elisa is studying to be an Accountant).  Because Elisa is so very kind and organized, she did not cancel our plans, instead she contacted her friends to see if anyone would be interested in stepping in and spending some time with me.  Before I left Texas, Elisa had emailed me a “proposal or program”.  I was to look over the options and choose the ones I would like to participate in.  She in turn would have those friends contact me.  You have already met Paola.  She and I are to spend some time later in the week.  Costanza is another friend of Elisa’s.  She has proposed that I take the train to Pontassieve on Saturday to spend the day cooking at her country home with her, her mother and her aunt.  We thought it would be best to meet face to face first.  We are to meet in front of the duomo and then walk to a spot she likes to grab a cafe and chat.

It is pouring rain as I walk from my appartamento to the duomo.  The foreign vendors flood the streets with ponchos and umbrellas.  A few meters from a vendor, you find a piece of an umbrella handle…a discarded, upturned purchase. Aahhh street quality!

Luckily I have my italian phone and can touch base with Costanza to make sure the meeting is still on.  She apologizes for the weather (which is fun to me) and says yes, she will be arriving wearing a black dress and carrying a gray umbrella.

We meet, kiss/kiss and talk as we walk through the rain that is now slacking. We go to a cafe located in a building housing a library and a student center.  There are many young people studying, drinking cafe and socializing in the halls and corridors.imageHere we talk briefly, introducing ourselves and defining our plan for Saturday.  Costanza is 26 and completing her masters in Hydro Engineering. Her parents are both Architects so she feels we will have a common area of interest although their english is limited.  I find myself leaning in trying to capture all I can from her while she sits back obviously comfortable in her element.  She orders an espresso and talks of her love and perhaps addiction to italian coffee.  She has traveled Europe and has found no equal.  I drink a bottle of water.  I am learning how late I can enjoy an espresso without staying awake all night… I am past that time now.  I get her to write the name of the station/village I will be meeting her on Saturday and we say ciao until then.

I linger a bit at the building we are in and then begin to wind my way to Trattoria Katti.  This was a favorite spot of mine located on the street where my room was 2 years ago.  I have plans to attend a “Vertical Wine Tasting” at 9:30 but am not sure if any food will be offered.  As it is only about 6:30, I enjoy a bicchiere di vino rosso, order a bowl of pappa al pomodoro and watch the people go by.imageBefore I ordered the zuppa, I asked the waitress if this is under the same ownership as it was 2 years ago.  She said yes they have had this trattoria for 4 years now.  I wondered because 2 years ago, each time I ate here or passed by, Katti, the beautiful, young italian who owned the restaurant was working or her mother would be out serving or cleaning and would always say “Ciao Signora” to me.  This was the first, and best place I had pappa al pomodoro and I did not want to be disappointed.  I was not!  Hot and rich.  Salty and Oily.  Molto Buono!image

Before I left, Katti did ride up on her bicicletta, looking more glamorous than ever and her mother emerged from their apartment next door.  All is right in Firenze!

I had signed up for the Vertical Wine Tasting with a girl who writes a blog called “The Curious Appetite”.  I received an email from her earlier saying the event was sure to be crowded and we might want to arrive an hour or so early in order to secure a tavolo.  Since I had nothing else to do, I went back to my appartamento, switched borsas (the bigger now), looked up the directions and headed across Ponte Vecchio.  The enoteca con degustazione is tucked away but very easy to find from my place.  Over the ponte, through a piccolo piazza, sinistra and then there you are.

Shortly after my arrival, Coral (the coordinator) arrived as well.  Coral is about 26 or so, from Seattle but has been living in Firenze for 3 years now.  She is of Italian heritage and speaks Italian (a study in college) very well.  She is personal friends with the owners of Le Volpi e l’Uva (The Fox and the Grapes) and it was her idea to invite expats and savvy tourist to an event usually enjoyed by locals.  Brava Coral!

imageIt was a good thing we snagged a table early because the place overflowed capacity early.  To accommodate more, they moved the 5 of us further in and added chairs in the street. Siamo stati fortunati in effetti!

Our tavolo was shared by a woman about my age, currently living in Alabama but here as a “resident artist” and teacher and a young couple living in Firenze for the past year.  Adrian is a statistician originally from France and his wife (i think) Emma, is from Dublin which is where they met. They have an internet company that can be run from anywhere and they said, “Perche non Firenze?”

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The owner (far right) greets us and gives a bit of background about the winemaker (far left).

imageBefore each vintage, the winemaker would tell us (Coral leaning over to translate a bit) the particulars about this year’s product along with his approach… clearly living and loving what he does.imageWith each glass, a new cheese or crostini would appear on our small table.  We would adjust everything else in order to accomodate!imageThis unique experience cost a mere 25 euro.  The food, the wine, the conversation, the night…priceless.imageimage

As a special treat, at the end, the winemaker surprised his guests with a taste of his “vera passione”…bubbly red.image

A toast to the wine and its maker! Salute!image

A toast to a wonderful evening meeting and eating.  Cin Cin!image

At 0:30 it was time to once again cross Ponte Vecchio, still crowded with lovers, musicians and friends and turn in for the night.

Buonanotte!image

Nella Cuci

As advised by Elisa, I woke early to find the sun already beaming down on the many beautiful fiori e piante in giardino.imageAnd on il cane di famiglia, Stella.image image The famiglia once again gathered in the garden to enjoy a typical italian breakfast.imageimageAfter breakfast and morning conversation, it was time to walk the short, short distance to the stores to gather the freshest ingredients for the day.image

Pane

Pane

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panna e cioccolato

image And into this small store carrying only a few items like fresh herbs, olive oil, canned vegetables (fatta in casa) and pinoli.image And then we made another trip back to get something else, that I do not remember.  Unlike having to make a return trip to HEB, these outings were a pleasure.  During each visit, the same signore was sitting   sentinel. image Back in the casa, Anna was preparing the vegetables for both the ragu and the crostini  toscani-  leeks, carrots and red onion.imageimage After each visit to Italy,  there are additions to my cucina that must be purchased.  A mezzaluna is on the list. Now to discuss the Crostini Toscani. We first had to cut the spleen  into small pieces…and then do the same to the chicken livers….both of these jobs became mine once they were demonstrated.image The meat was then was browned with the vegetables at this point, if you have fresh anchovies, add now…if not, Mara uses from a tube.  After all ingredients cook together, it is time to put through a food mill.  This process combines all to create a grayish brown paste to be put on crostini (The difference between crostini and bruschetta I also learned).  Crostini is smaller, toasted bread that can have a variety of toppings and bruschetta is larger toasted bread with olive oil and salt (you had me here) and usually pomodori and basilico.  I am personally a member of Team Bruschetta. image The ragu was made as I have learned before,, beginning with the vegetables,, adding the freshly ground beef from the butcher,, tomatoes  and Anna says, “Quando cominicia a cantare, vuole il vino..”  When it begins to sing, it wants the wine…Understood! Now it is time to prepare the pesto…because for lunch, un tipo di pasta non e sufficiente!image Mara steps right outside to gather the basilico fresco.  To this,  fresh parmigiano,  fresh aglio and pinoli from down the street are added.   Oh and let’s not forget the freshest and best of  olio d’oliva.image And for dolce, tiramisu, naturalmente.  But as Mara and Anna added, this was to be tiramisu leggero, tiramisu light…no uova.

We had set up the table to dine in the garden, but a threatening cloud with loud claps of thunder, changed our plans.  In our Italian and English we discussed the common sayings, “Better safe than sorry”  (in english) and “Better to fear than to be beat up”…or something like that (in Italian).  The latter had, had of course, a hand motion to accompany.image At  the last moment, Mara prepared what was to be il mio preferito, salvia fritta.imageimage

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Salvia Fritta…molto buono! And check out the size of that salvia!

With the table set for pranzo tradizionale toscana…we begin. imageimage Somehow, perhaps gluttony, I forgot to capture the Tiramisu Leggero…but not to worry, there was molto after that!  Biscotti di Prato with Vin Santo and finally espresso…certo.imageWords and photos cannot sufficiently describe this day.  Elisa’s family was so open to this new experience.  The language barrier actually added to the fun.  Anna, who speaks no English, warmed quickly and would look between Elisa and myself for translation.  Her eyes excited about what my reaction would be to her words.   At one point, Elisa was telling me something and Anna corrected her.  Elisa gave an exasperated  glance and I said, “Anna knows best.”  Elisa translated this, to which Anna replied with a strong, “Certo!” (sure!) I have a priceless video of Anna sharing her recipe for Tortelli Mugellani with me.  Anna seems shyish during the filming but afterwards asked to watch it again and again.  Each time she would throw her head back laughing and laughing.  I told her she was going to become famoso in America and could have her own cooking show.  We would title it, “Anna Knows Best”  with “Certo” coming across the screen many times through the episode.  I am currently arm wrestling with my phone and wordpress to attempt to upload the video to the blog.  So once you read this post and later see an update…don’t disregard.  That will hopefully mean Anna and I are the victors. Let me recap the lunch menu in Italian for you. Oggi (10.6) Pranzo: *Antipasto=sottoli, affettati, crostini toscani = (pane, pegatini di pollo, cipolla, milzadimanzo) *Pasta al Ragu- Ragu= carne di manzo, odori (sedano, carota, cipolla), passato di pomodoro, vino. *Pasta al Pesto *Tiramisu Leggero= pavesini, panna, cioccolato fondente, caffe *Bevande= Vino Rosso Chianti BUON APPETITO! And now, posso presentarvi, Anna of Anna Knows Best…Certo!

Con la Famiglia

Disclaimer!!!  What you are about to read has taken me days and days to update…it is driving me crazy.  The site seems glitchy putting photos where I do not intend them to be, the wifi is spotty and the worst is when my ipad just chooses to freeze up and I return to lost work.  Please bear with me. ________________________________________________________________ Tuesday morning I slept in a bit, resting up from my late night/early morning blogging (heading into another late one tonight!) but I began my morning in true Italian fashion.I am definitely going to buy one of these before I come home. After my jolt of caffeine, I ironed and packed an over night bag.  I am to meet Elisa in front of the biblioteca at 16:00.  I left the appartamento a couple hours early so I could take my time finding our rendezvous point.  When I stepped out my door, I decided to buy my first bag of cherries.image And then I am off. The biblioteca is located near Piazza di Santa Croce so decide with a bit of time to spare, I will revisit this beautiful chiesa.

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A statue of Dante Alighieri ( Italian poet, 1265-1321) looks down on you as you approach.

The Basilica di Santa Croce (Basilica of the Holy Cross) is the principal Franciscan church in Florence.  The building was begun on my birthday, May 12, 1294.  It is the burial place of some of the most illustrious Italian, such as Galileo, Machiavelli and my personal favorite, Michelangelo.image This beautiful tomb is a work of Vasari (1570).  The 3 scultptures in the foreground illustrate Sculpture, Painting and Artchitecture mourning the loss of this Reniassance Man. I understand Michelangelo was originally laid to rest in Roma but that his body was stolen away in the night to return to his beloved Firenze.  Each time I have stood in front of this, I simply cannot wrap my head around the significance of whose company I am in.  Seriously!…I am standing with Michelangelo Buonarroti! Other works that take my breath away, not only by their beauty but also by the realization of who the artist  is and his presence, are Giotto’s crucifix and his frescos of the life of Saint Francis.  Giotto’s emotion and expression revolutionized art exuding feelings and deminsionality.  These works were covered by others then rediscovered in 1853.  Can you imagine what is still yet to be rediscovered?!imageimage image

Lighting my first candle praying for Mom's recovery.

Lighting my first candle praying for Mom’s recovery.

I sit in the basilica rest and reflect. Then I head to the Biblioteca Nazionale and wait.image Elisa arrives right on time (I used my telefono italiano to touch base) kiss,kiss…and we zoom up past Piazzale Michelangelo and beyond to her parents home.  There we are greeted by Luigi (it’s just fun to say isn’t it…Luigi), her father, Mara, her mother,  Anna, her 2nd cousin and Stella the cane di famiglia.  Elisa, knowing I am a insegnante di arte showed me her room she painted years ago while listening to her favorite band Coldplay.image I told her she would fit right in at studio602!  From the casa di famiglia, we switched cars, cramming the cinque of us + Stella into the , as Luigi announced, “Not an American car!”, and headed to the sea. A couple of days ago I questioned this adventure.  Would I jump into a car with a family I did not know at all and accompany them to their other home in an area I had no idea where it was in relation to …….anything?  I think not, BUT, once I sat with Elisa Monday night, my nerves quelled…it felt like it was suppose to- un’avventura.  We sped down the autostrada darting and weaving with, can you believe it, Luciano Pavarotti canto from the car’s speakers. As we drove, greetings were discussed, American and Italian.  Elisa asked what the formal and informal way of saying hello was in American.  I told her, How are you was formal, What’s up is very informal and the head nod with “sup” is VERY informal.  She laughed and practiced.  Elisa’s momma, Mara, added, “Aaaahhhhh, what’sa upa is like the app What’sa appa.”  Elisa and I were very impressed with Mara’s street smarts. The passing views varied from small cities to the beautiful, rolling, green and ochre hills Tuscany is famous far.  After about an hour and a half, Luigi asked if I would like to see the sea.  Si I replied.  This is one of the things I thought this trip was about.  We stopped in front of a fort constructed half way through the sixteenth century by Cosimo I de Medici (I doubt the Grand Duke himself was slinging mortar, but you know what I mean).  These military structures span the Tuscan coast  and formed an impressive military front to defend his cities from attacks.  image

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And this l miei amici, is the extent of my visit to the “sea” proper.

imageElisa says in late June, July and August, the beaches are packed with vacationing Tuscans. Next stop, the local Macerlleria (butcher shop).  image On Mara’s list was (in english) spleen, chicken liver, prosciutto and salame.  Since I had not eaten all day and it was now about 18:00…the samples of prosciutto and salame were my favorite parts…by far.  At one point Elisa laughed and translated that Anna commented I had better not eat any more or I wouldn’t have room for dinner…no worries Anna. During the next brief part of our drive, Elisa points out a tower on a hill.  She says this tower figures prominently in Dante’s Divine Comedy.  Something about a man being locked up with his family in this tower, they all die and the man is forced to eat his son…huh…I’ll have to look into that.image And we arrive to Castegneto Carducci, a small comune in the Province of Livorno located about 90 kilometers southwest of Florence. Giosue Carducci (1835-1907) was an Italian poet who grew up in the area.  Elisa’s family has two places here, both of which they rent out.  Elisa and I will be staying below and Luigi, Mara and Anna, above.  The rooms Elisa and I are in were a blacksmith shop in the 1800’s.  Luigi is a bit of a History Buff so there are implements and little descriptions of things all about.image Elisa and I go on a short walk about the village and when we return, it is time to eat. imageimage

The melone e prosciutto were amazing!!

The melone e prosciutto were amazing!!

So if the Dante/cannibalism story was not creepy enough, during our fabulous dinner, Luigi tells a more current gruesome story.  Apparently…this is what I gather through translation, hand motions and Anna’s disapproving glances…there was a killer in Florence that targeted young lovers, “only couples” Luigi adds several times, as if to comfort my solo self. Through the story and let me underscore, hand motions, I nod and nod and I am sure look concerned.  Mara tells Luigi he is scaring me and that I will not sleep well tonight.  I tell them it is not tonight that I am worried about.  As my dad does, Luigi’s voice raises as he shares the story, as if the increased volume will bridge our language barrier.  After we finished our cena fuori, Elisa and I accept Luigi’s invitation to take a walk around the village as he shares his knowledge of the local history. imageAnd of course, there is a stop for caffe for Luigi and gelato for Elisa and me.

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Elisa chooses cono con stracciatella and cioccolato and I try marscapone con nutella and stracciatella. Molto buono. Grazie Luigi.

We return to the casa where Mara and Anna have already retired.  Elisa asks me to be ready for the cooking lesson tomorrow morning at about 9:00.  I settle into my bellissima camera for a buonanotte.

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The glass door separates the bed and bath from the living and kitchen. To the right, facing the garden Elisa has a similar set up. This way 2 families can rent the space.

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The winding , stone steps lead you to the updated bathroom. “Pay attention to the heada” warns Luigi.

Giorno Uno

My first night in my appartamento was ok.  I stumped by toe 2x during the night due to the 1″ rise from the hallway to the bathroom and vowed not to do it a 3rd.  The little airconditioner does not get to my home sleeping temperature of 64, but that was to be expected.  I woke up in the morning refreshed and ready to start giorno uno.

My day began at the TIM store.  If you remember, yesterday I spent about 2 hours in the company of Stefania, my personal (ha!) tech assistant but because I could not get the phone to go beyond the spinning “search”, I had to return.  I am not sure what time they opened, but I arrived at about 10, pulled my number and found there had already been 17 people in front of me; 8 or so of whom were still crammed in the small store.  Stefania was once again on duty along with another female phone specialist.  I went in with the attitude that I had nothing else pressing today, so just to be patient.  That sentiment was not shared by numbers 15,16,17 and 21.  It was amazing to me that people would openly fuss and heatedly complain about the amount of time the 2 workers were spending with “clients”.  I just enjoyed it as a form of Italian Theater and it helped the 2 hours go by.

Once Stefania called “diciotto”, I knew I would have her undivided attention for awhile.  Long story short, my old iphone was apparently “locked” even though verizon said it was not.  I considered putting the Italain SIM card in my new iphone, but then imagined getting a verizon bill on top of the amount of the SIM card and quickly decided against that.  I thought the cheapest, easiest way to go was to purchase an unlocked phone here…so I did.  You should have seen the faces and heard the groans of numbers 19-infinity as Stefania patiently showed me how to ramp up my new phone.  Now “all” my Italian amici can contact me AND I can google map a destination (even though once it shows me the location, it shuts down…oh well) out on the streets without fear of having a $1,000 phone bill when I return home.

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When I went back to my appartamento to ditch the iphone and the new phone box, I researched a spot for lunch and headed Oltrarno (on the other side of the Arno).

A blog I frequent “Girl in Florence” (another Texas Tuscan) suggested Chicco di Caffe for a great lunch, budget friendly and loved by locals.

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Rigatoni al pesto di asparagi e ricotta salata

Rigatoni al pesto di asparagi e ricotta salata

This primi plate and a bicchiere di vino bianco locale was a great recommendation.

After lunch, I searched out the studio of the street sign artist Clet Abraham.  Last year I got a kick out of his clever sense of humor and roamed the streets looking for the many different manipulations of municipal signage.  Since then, I somehow stumbled across who the artist was and that he had a studio in Ortrarno.  On the way, I saw several new works by Clet.imageimage

When I arrived I was disappointed that the studio was closed.  I stood there peering through the glass door hoping someone might be in and have pity on me.  No such luck.  I roamed a bit around the immediate area and decided to stop into an osteria have perhaps the studio would be open afterwards.

Osteria San Niccolo was a great choice for dolce and conversation.

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Here I enjoyed one of the best Tiramisu I have ever had.  The zabaione was light as air.  After a short bit, a young couple walked in and told the waiter, “We’ll have what she is having.”  He was from Syria and she from Egypt.  Of course both spoke perfect english (damn us monolingual Americans!)  We enjoyed a lively conversation about the riches of traveling and experiencing different cultures.  They got a kick out of my “Eat Pray Eat” agenda.

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Uno altro per la raccolta!

We parted ways and to my delight, the Clet studio was open!  What a coincidence I thought it was that the girl working in the studio was also just at Chicco di Caffe…she did not.  As I was choosing a few items to buy, I asked her if I could take a couple of photographs.  “Of what?” she said looking around  with attitude.  She agreed.  I took a few quick shots before she changed her mind.image

So cool to see an artist's workspace!

So cool to see an artist’s workspace!

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I know this last one is a little blurry, but I feared she might lose patience with me at any moment.  I love the simplicity of stencil work.

After leaving Oltrarno, I just roamed noticing more and more street art that most simply are oblivious to.  There is a new guy out there, goes by the name “Blub”, creating a new street art series.  After researching the signature, I learned he is a mystery.  He has yet to reveal himself to the public.  He takes iconic works of art and iconic people and puts a diving mask on them. Way quirky, but I’m a fan.  He has a Instagram @lartesanuotare.  My eyes are peeled to see how many divers I can find on the streets of Firenze.

My first to see.  Botticelli's cherub.

My first to see. Botticelli’s cherub.

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Even the ermine has a mask!

Even the ermine has a mask!

As often happens with street art, someone has added a mustache to Dante.

As often happens with street art, someone has added a mustache to Dante.

Other works seen along the way…imageimageimageimageimage

This one is a great example (I censored) of building on the “work” of someone else.  I laughed out loud.  Clever, clever!

Next stop il Mercato Centrale.image

Mom and Dad told me about this place.  It is fairly new.  They just celebrated their 1 year anniversary.  It is an open air food court of sorts.  Located above the traditional Mercato San Lorenzo, it is a foodie’s paradise.  You can graze from stall to stall enjoying pane, carni, pasta e dolci.  Of course there is also a bar area in the middle serving espresso, spritz and wine.  This is a wonderful place to get out of the heat for a bit, reconnect with free wifi and relax.

Roaming about, I passed this street artist several times through out the day documenting his process and sharing my spare change.imageimageimageimage

At last it was time to meet Elisa.  To catch you up on my Italian Amica, I knew for this trip I wanted to add to my “language experience”.  I had searched and searched for a unique, one on one approach.  The only thing I was finding were traditional language schools that offered 1 hour lessons to weeks of classes.  Then I found The Florentine.  This is a bi-weekly newspaper printed in english covering italian news, events and culture.  They also have a classified section.  At first I was very excited to find this.  There were several people offering their services to tutor.  Then I thought it was a little “craig’s listy” and probably not a wise idea.  My third thought was “what the heck” so I contacted 2 females.  Both responded.  The first said she was interested but did I speak italian so that when she is explaining the history and culture I would understand…nope…that’s the point of this.  The second was Elisa.  She shared her interest in learning what I had in mind.  I foolishly responded back asking about her experience with the Italian language.  She said she had lived in Florence all her life and her parents were Florentine as well.  Check language and city culture/history off my “interview” questions.

Elisa and I continued to design our program.  She was so generous with her time and ideas.  We “met” through Skype to nail down our plan.  A plan which now included accompanying her and her familia to their sea home, cooking with her mom and great aunt, going with her sister to a friend’s agriturismo for more cooking and eating, exploring the markets, cooking and sightseeing with her friend Paola and spending a day (again cooking and eating) with another of Elisa’s friends, Costanza, at her country home.  Ya might say I hit the jackpot!

Well tonight that adventure began.  I was to meet Elisa atLa Prosciutteria for an aperitivo. image

Although I was fairly comfortable finding the spot (it is on the same street as yesterday’s panino), I headed over a bit early.  When the people inside on the right left, I snagged that prime spot and waited.

A few minutes later, a woman I knew was not Elisa seemed to be looking for someone.  We glanced at each other a couple of times and then she asked, “Paige?”  Si, si!  It was Paola.  This is Elisa’s amica that I will be spending time with later in the week.  What fun this was going to be.

Shortly after Paola, Elisa arrived.  We chatted and joked like old friends.  They were kind to my attempts at their bella lingua as we shared wonderful food, drinks and stories.

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Salute! Cin, Cin!

Afterwards, Elisa recommended a new gelateria by the duomo.  We grabbed her bike from a nearby rack and walked over.

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The line attested to Gelateria Edoardo’s reputation.  Who can complain waiting in the shadows of the duomo?  Not I.

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Both Elisa and I chose cioccolato e zabaione on a wonderfully crisp, fresh cono.  On our passeggiata through the still crowded,  cobblestone streets, Elisa ran into a couple she knew.  The woman had been her english teacher while in middle school.  It was heartwarming to see their greeting and listen to their lively conversation.  I joined in and immediately knew these were people you could talk with for hours.  I know Elisa, Paola and others will continue to make this trip a once in a lifetime adventure and a  sweet, sweet memory!

As it is almost 3:00am here, I wish you sogni d’oro and a presto.

Italia 2015- Jumping In

I’m sitting in my appartamento in Firenze, pretty much worn out from the last 30 hours or so…but I am going to jump in, filling you in a bit on what has gone on thus far. I feel if I don’t jump in…I’ll get behind and lost.

Earlier in the week, I decided to call United and Swiss Air just to double check my reservations. Good thing I did. Monday night I was told by Swiss Air United had cancelled my flight and had yet to reinstate one. Four hours later, almost 3 of which were spent on hold listening to the garbled United jingle, I was given a new flight, no longer going through Zurich but routed through Frankfurt instead. I had lost my good aisle seats I had chosen in January and was relegated to the back of the plane in a middle seat…But at least I had a flight right?

I made it through the remainder of the week at school, crossing my fingers that everything was going to work out.
And it did. I arrived at the Austin Airport with plenty of time to have a chat with United. Cal was my hero of the day, reinstating my earlier seat choices for free and giving me a $100 travel voucher with United. I would have rather the incident never happened, but at least he seemed like he cared. I asked him what I could do so see that this never happened to me again and he said that when you make reservations that far in advance, you need to check them every once in awhile because schedules change.image

The flight to Chicago went off without a hitch, but when we landed, I noticed I had only 15 minutes to get to another terminal and to my gate.  The flight attendant warned me not to stop at the restroom.  She advised me to take the shuttle and hustle.  I arrived in the shuttle line to be told the shuttle could only take 23 and I was the 25.  So I Amazing Raced it through 3 terminals at O’hare and arrived at the terminal before the shuttle.  No time to grab a snack, not restroom break, but I was there.

Walking through the first class “lounge” area really makes you feel like a peasant when you reach your section.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a nice set up.  As I was walking up to my aisle seat…the one I had originally reserved, then lost, then paid extra for, then was reimbursed for, I noticed a woman looking at me.  The man in the row in front of her was turned around discussing something with her.  Before I even arrived, I knew what they had in mind.  In a heavy Russian accent she said, “You mind if husband sit here and you sit there?”  Before she could even get it out, I said, “No I am sorry.  I paid extra for the isle.”  They continued to “discuss” me in Russian, but I stood (or sat) firm.

Before we took off, the chipper captain kept telling us what a short flight we were going to have, less than 8 hours.  And he was right, we even arrived in Frankfurt 45 minutes early.image

Once we arrived in Frankfurt, I located my new gate then enjoyed my first European pastry and cappucino while I practiced my Italian on my phone.image

Not sure how handy this sentence is going to be…but I got it correct.image

The flight from Frankfurt to Firenze was a short, beautiful one.  I do not know if I have ever flown over the Alps before but this time I will never forget.  From a distance out, I wasn’t sure what I was looking at.  Tufts of clouds in the sky seemed to be dipping below the horizon creating what looked to be a mirror effect.  Then I realized there were snowcapped mountains in the mix.  Lakes fingered through the valleys creating a confusing sense of size and of time.  Thin veils of misty clouds drifted above blue lakes.  Two ridges were split by a beautiful green valley, a river snaking through it.  I looked at these craggy, rugged mountains contrasting with the small villages nestled between.  What must life be like there?  How do you even get to the villages?  How much must a red bell pepper be?image

The mountains soon gave way to lush green hills, spotted with terracotta roofs and cypress trees.  Toscana, just like in the movies.I was excited the moment my foot touched the Italian Terra of the airport runway, but disappointed when no one checked and or stamped my passport.  We were just all allowed in.

Your heart cannot help but race when you are waiting for your luggage, especially when some of the same pieces make their 2nd lap.  So I was relieved to see the Ferrari coming around the carousel.  As I waited, I watched a brief video welcoming visitors to Firenze pointing out the choices one had to get to the city center.  I chose the cheepest of the 4, autobus/6 euro.

As I exited the terminal, the smell of cigarette smoke wafted under my nose. Finding it oddly welcoming, I smile and know I am in Italia!

As the autobus pulls out of the airport, I am greeted by a Fernando Botero sculpture, “Paloma”.

Fernando Botero's "Paloma"

Fernando Botero’s “Paloma”

Is it not the cutest thing.  I have always loved Botero’s (Fernando Botero,1932-   , Columbian, Modern Art) style.  I still regret not buying a copy of his chubby Mona Lisa from a sidewalk vendor in Central Park years ago.

As the bus moved into the Historic City Center of Firenze, it seemed like just yesterday I was here.  The bus let us off at Santa Maria Novella Station, I walked confidently in the direction of the Arno knowing my appartamento was close to Ponte Vecchio.  I found the street and the correct number pretty easily, but that is when I hit a wall.  The door did not have the name of the appartamento on it, only the little buzzer with 6 or so names.  I turned the data on on my phone just for a moment to try to make a call, but it did not go through.  So I quickly turned it back off  and considered my options.  2 young girls had walked by twice obviously looking for their hotel as well.  When they buzzed into the one directly across from mine, I asked if I could tag along and possibly have their hotel call Tomaso at mine.  They said sure, but the guy at their hotel said he “could not help”.  I was tempted to help him define the difference between could not and would not…but I simply slipped back out to the street.

By the way, I have some VERY classy neighbors!  The Salvatore Ferragamo Museo that I enjoyed so much during my last visit is catty corner to my place.  Via de Tornabuoni is like the Rodeo Drive of Firenze.image

Anyway back to my saga…I decide to buzz a couple of the buttons at #20.  Nothing.  I peek into a trattoria next door and give a guy my “lost and confused” face.  Carlo clicks his heels on over and says “Si Signora?”.  I hand him my reservation papers, try to explain my issue and he says, “Well, let us call them.” About 20 minutes later Tomaso appears to let me in.  Grazie mille Carlo!  I’ll tip him well when I have a glass of wine there later this week.

Tomaso and his heavy scent of tobacco let me into the appartamento and he shares the highlights with me.  Very cute, great size, glamorous location and fairly budget friendly.

My entrance once through the beautiful, heavy wooden doors.

My entrance once through the beautiful, heavy wooden doors.

The room from the kitchen.

The room from the kitchen.

Mi Cucina.

Mi Cucina.

 

My view from my open finestra della cucina.

My view from my open finestra della cucina.

There is a nice bath, lots of storage space (drawers and closets) and even a washing machine. Good things can be found when you plan REALLY early.

After I unpacked, I needed un morso a mangiare.  Blaine had asked me what my first meal would be.  At the top of my list was a return visit to my favorite panino shop.

All' Antico Vinaio

All’ Antico Vinaio

And this time, I was fairly comfortable telling the guys what I wanted on my panino- prosciutto, pomodori, basilico, mozzarella, olio d’oliva e balsamico.  Meraviglioso! imageIt’s bigger than my open hand and it’s ONLY 5 euro!!!  I walked through the streets noshing and wiping my mouth…no body knows me here.

As I headed to the TIM phone store, several works of street art caught my eye.  This one I’ve already seen several versions of.

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And these spoons are each at least 5 feet tall.image

da Vinci's "Lady with an Ermine".

da Vinci’s “Lady with an Ermine”

Hey wait...I missed my first wedding!

Hey wait…I missed my first wedding!

I am trying something new this trip.  I brought my old iphone and had the TIM people put in an Italian SIM card.  I waited in line at least an hour.  Like our phone stores, they do a booming business.  I will need to go back tomorrow.  I foolishly brought it to them without any battery life.  The woman was very helpful, but now that it is up and running, I do not understand the directions and numbers she gave me.  The great part about this is that I paid cash, so when my minutes are used, they’re used.  I do not get charged for going over.  I’ll let you know if it works out for me.  I only plan to use it to call my hotels (would have come in handy to contact Tomas earlier) and search places and maps when I am away from wifi.

Next I roamed around deliriously in circles looking for a small grocery.

When I was trying to ask the owner of a bookstore, he could not understand me.  Then I told him my list, “acqua, zucchero, latte” and he understood me.  I’m making progress!  The one I finally found was quite a ways from my appartamento, so I lugged back my goods including 6 1.5 liters of acqua and called it a day when I got back.

Tomorrow I’ll talk with Elisa to see what she has planned for me/us this week.

Buona notte.

 

 

 

Best of- The Rest

Gallery

This gallery contains 27 photos.

As you can tell I have put off and put off this final post.  I felt as long as I left something hanging, I was still living in the present regarding my trip and not the past. Now that I … Continue reading

Best of- Food

Not that this came as a surprise to me, but a major focus of this trip was food.  Many people seem think that just because you are in Italy, amazing food is going to be all around you and all you consume.  Like anywhere, food in Italy varies.  Not every bite you put in your mouth is worth the calories or the euro….so I tried to be selective.  I researched, talked to locals, checked out plates as I passed.  However, some of my best bites were serendipitous..  Grazie mille San Lorenzo!  As I answer my own “Best of Food” questions, I am not looking back at photos for reminders.  These answers are based solely on sweet (and savory) memories!

Best Pizza– Pizzeria Franco, Sorrento

I’ll start with the question I get most, “Where did you have the best pizza?”  Without a doubt it was  in Sorrento.  Even though Sorrento is not on my list of cities to return to, catching a train just to eat at Franco’s is!

Peperoni, salsiccia e formaggi

Peperoni, salsiccia e formaggi

Best Gelato– CCC, Capri Crema Cafe, Anacapri

Capri Crema Cafe

Capri Crema Cafe

I loved the whole vibe here;  a little retro but definitely cutting edge, clean and crisp. Presentation is spot on and taste….molto buono!

Best Pasta Gnocchetti fatto a mano…..le mie mani!!

Gnocchetti Sardi fatti in casa con Ragu alla Bolognese

Gnocchetti Sardi fatti in casa con Ragu alla Bolognese

I am sure the fact that I/we made this in our cooking class and the love and laughs that went into the preparation flavors my perspective…..but this truly was the best pasta I had during my trip. I could have easily made myself sick on it.  But being in the company of “strangers” and needing to save room for all the other dishes we prepared, tempered my portion.

On my first Sunday back home, I prepared this for my family.  It received rave reviews here as well.

Fatto in my Texas Casa

Fatto in my Texas Casa

Best Street Food–  Frito Misto, Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre

Fritto Misto calamari e gamberi

Fritto Misto
calamari e gamberi

This is one of those places I roamed into.  The calamari was the freshest I have ever had.  It is pretty much a given now that I love my food in a paper cone.

Best Ristorante– Al Pozzo, Monterosso   Trattoria Mario, Firenze   Trattoria Katti, Firenze

This category has a three-way tie.  All three are here due to the quality of food but also because of the personal attention/willingness to interact,  and for me, both are key in creating a memorable experience.

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Al Pozzo has previous memories attached to it.  I have enjoyed beautiful evenings seated in the street here my family.  I have a photo of Chef Gino preparing his famed frutti di mare risotto (which I have yet to try).  Both of my children fell in love with gamberetti gnocchi here.                                         Wonderful memories can be a tough thing for a place to live up to as well.  On my first night in Monterosso, when being presented with my gamberetti gnocchi, my heart fell…. the gnocchi failed to sport its tell-tale ridges.  I guess as a time saver, instead of hand rolling each gnoccho on the ridged board, they stopped at the step before, creating a less appealing looking dumpling.  I so wanted to inquire, but I knew my question could only be taken as a complaint (which to be honest….it would have been) and I chose to make new memories instead of trying to relive past ones….that’s growth huh!?

Not to be Missed!

Not to be Missed!

Trattoria Mario is just one of those special places.  Yes it is packed with tourist that have read about it, but it is run by locals that I think are there for the locals….we just happen to be a byproduct of their love of Firenze and its food.

Now Trattoria Katti is all me.  I did not read about it, I did not hear about it, I just roamed into it and I am so glad I did.  As you know, I enjoyed a dinner there twice.  Both times the food was very good, but the dish that put it over the top for me was the Pappa al Pomodoro.  I have since longed for a spoonful often!!  The fact that when I would walk by (countless times…it was on “my street”) and Katti or her mamma would see me and say “Ciao!” didn’t hurt either.

Comfort in a bowl!

Comfort in a bowl!

Best BItes– Fried Calzone, Anacapri     Coccolo, Firenze     Papa al Pomodoro, Firenze       Panino, Firenze

I had a lot of wonderful food during my trip…if I look back through my photos, I am sure I would add more to my list, but again….I am going with my memory and my gut here.

To me, this is what it is all about…that first bite….the moment you put something into your mouth and you are simply sent….the second bite or the second visit may not compare….but it is that first bite that you remember…

When I first bit into the fried calzone in Anacapri, right then, I knew it was the best thing I had eaten in Italy yet….I will admit, when I finally found the bakery the 2nd time, after days of trying to retrace my steps….the 2nd experience did not measure up to the first.  It was still wonderful….but just not the same…

Fried Calzone...need I say more...

Fried Calzone…need I say more…

Coccolo, dusted with salt...

Coccolo, dusted with salt…

OK…there is a trend here….more fried dough.  Hey, I am not proud…IS there anything better!?  I have yet to make these, but I do have a happy hour on the books and am planning to serve Aperol Spritz and these!

I have already shared the photo of Papa al Pomodoro, but it makes the list again….

And last, but certainly NOT least was my amazing panino in Firenze….

All'Antico Vinaio

All’Antico Vinaio

Once again rewarded for roaming on!

You will notice that most of my BEST BITES are from my eats in Firenze…another reason the city is a fav of mine!

Best Sips– A Pie’ de Ma’, Riomaggiore    Caffe Gilli, Firenze

During my previous trip to Italy with my mom and kids, I would look at people just sitting, enjoying a glass of wine or an aperitif, perhaps reading a book….I longed for that experience, that pace.  This trip, I enjoyed many such moments.

a Pie' de Ma

a Pie’ de Ma

I am thankful for the tip to look for a Pie’ de Ma….it isn’t a place you would just stumble on.  Definitely a place to return to.

My first Aperol Spritz...and more coccolo!  Heaven or What!?

My first Aperol Spritz…and more coccolo! Heaven or What!?

During my evening at Gilli, I just kept pinching myself….I was so happy.  Seated outdoors overlooking Piazza della Repubblica…people watching…pretty much heaven for me.

Best New Discovery– Fresh Cherries  and Fresh Anchovies

I know you are probably thinking, “How can cherries be a discovery?”  Well, I am not a fruit person.  As I have gotten older, I have tried to broaden my fruit horizons (remember the fig….).  I tend to be attracted to “pretty things”.  When I was younger, I put a tomato slice on my plate simply because I thought it needed the color.  So with cherries being in season, stacked and piled at every stand…I had to.  And once again…rewarded.  Cherries became my staple snack.  I am sad to say that I bought some here at home…and they did not compare.

It is art!

It is art!

The moral of my italian eating is that fresh is key….my anchovy experiences speak to that as well!

Shrimp, Calamari and ANCHOVY!

Shrimp, Calamari and ANCHOVY!

I know I am leaving something (many things) out…I could probably give everything its own category….my picnic on the beach in Monterosso….so perfect….the limoncello Franco unlocked from his “private collection”….so-a strong-a and-a so-a beautiful-a!….the warm, oily bag of pane in Trastevere…..ALL my CAPRESES!!!…..

As you read, if there is a category you would like me to award…please…let me know…

My plan is one more post from this trip….The Best of…THE REST.

Best Of- B and B ‘s

First…some great news!!!!

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The scatola gialla has arrived!!  I was so happy to see the pink slip in the mail box.  And even happier when Mom and Dad brought it in.  It looks as if it had a tough journey; all broken and taped, but what matters is all the goodies (yes, more ephemera!!) are here…no more loose ends; me, the Ferrari and the scatola gialla all arrived at different times, but we all arrived.

I wince a bit when I say I have been home two weeks now.                                                No doubt…there are wonderful things about being home; family, comforts of home, friends, family, comforts of home….wait, I already said that….ok….I am stumped…I know there are more, but I’ll have to get back to you.

Two weeks has allowed me to reflect, tell stories, miss certain things, etc.  During this time, I ask myself questions; “What was your best fill in the blank?  More often than not, a debate ensues.  I have to qualify and qualify, substitute, consider a different opinion, be reminded of something ….and that’s just talking to myself….                                                         But I think I am ready to make a few non-binding (my favorite kind) commitments…

So let’s start with my B & Bs.

Gosh…I actually got a bit nervous just then….I guess this is making it feel like a formal ending…..

Best Bedroom/Bath Layout & Comfy Bed– Chiusi and Vence

L' albero di gameli, Chiusi

L’ albero di gameli, Chiusi

Le2, Vence, France

Le2, Vence, France

These two B & B’s get three Best Of’s each!  I loved the eclectic mix and feel of the decor in Le2, but L’albero di gameli’s understated elegance made me feel pampered for the night.  Did I ever mention the wonderful scent that filled the air there?  I  know scents can be tricky.  Something someone loves gives someone else a headache.  But the scent Milena has here is so subtle…just enough to make you think “aaahhhhhhhh”.

Best Room View- Sorrento and Assisi (See now I thinking Anacapri should make this list as well….)  But I am going to stick with my first two because I tend to like heights….I so loved being on the rooftops of these places.  B&B Belvedere Sorrento gets top honors I think because of all I could see and hear; Piazza Tasso, the sea, the rooftops, people’s windows, the streets below.

Rooftop B&B Belvedere

Rooftop B & B Belvedere

B&B Belvedere Sorrento

B & B Belvedere Sorrento

I guess it gave me more “scenes” to picture myself in while Hotel Alexander’s (Assisi) view of the rolling hills of Toscana were like something out of an Italian fantasy.

Hotel Alexander, Assisi

Hotel Alexander, Assisi

Plus, in B & B Belvedere’s column, I so enjoyed my evenings on the rooftop with a glass of wine or a treat I had grabbed from the streets below.

Best Hotel Host/Hostess- OK…no surprises here…say it with me….FRANCO!!     Because I was Franco’s guest for 5 nights he of course gets top honors, but Milena comes in a close 2nd with only 1 night to impress!!

Il mio amico Franco!

Il mio amico Franco!

Franco and Family were just absolutely wonderful.  I cannot say enough about my time there and without Franco’s kindness, Anacapri would have just been another bellissimo posto on my trip.

Milena at work

Milena at work

Milena, with two precious girls in tow, went al di sopra e al di la to make my one night in Chiusi perfect AND help me.  With both of these special people, I feel I now have amici in Italia.  Are there ANY better souvenirs!?

My parents are already planning on adding these two spots to their next trip to Italia.

Best Breakfast- B&B Roma Central

Pasticceria across the via from B&B Roma Central

Pasticceria across the via from B&B Roma Central

A typical italian breakfast is so very different from a typical American breakfast.  Cakes, cheeses, pastries and of course cafe.  In Roma, every morning I looked forward to going to the pasticceria across the street, handing the guy on the other side of the counter my hand stamped post-it note, choosing my pastry from the glass counter and deciding how I wanted my caffeine presented that day; cappuccino, espresso, macchiato…no way an Americano!!  I didn’t sit at a table alone, I stood at the counter quickly eating my pastry and  downing my cafe in no more than 3 gulps like all my other italian neighbors.  Perfetto!

Best Location, Location, Location (Hotel)-

This is a toughie.  There are pluses about almost every single place I stayed.  The total number of B&B is 10 and I have to say I would rebook 8 of them.                                Rome, although the location put me near some cool neighborhoods and close to the train station, I would try another location before returning.  That has NOTHING to do with the quality of my B&B, it was great, but next time, I am thinking Trastevere.                                 Anacapri, part of the charm was that I would walk to town several times a day.  Staying out of the city center allowed me to peek into lives and the same lives at different times of day.  That I loved.  The aromas of what was for lunch or dinner, the conversations floating out of open windows, passing familiar faces on the streets.  And of course the tranquil beauty of Il Giardino dell’arte; my terrace, the Bay of Naples in my arms…bella!                   Sorrento, couldn’t have been better.  Walking distance from the train station, a corner off Piazza Tasso, my rooftop terrace…..ya gotta love the luggage pulley!                                                                                                     Chiusi, with a car and the intention of exploring Toscana and Umbria….definitely a place to return to.                                                                                                                               Monterosso, Hotel Margherita has a perfect location and I love their shared terrace/patio.  It was definitely one of my favorite “offices”.  A common outdoor area is a huge plus, especially if you are staying for several days.  This space allows you to hang and unwind without feeling closed up in your room.                                                                                          Florence, Great location.  Far enough from the touristy centers to allow you a buffer zone, but close enough to everything; train station included.  Via Faenza is lined with small trattorias, groceries, enotecas and more.  On my next visit, I might check out options  in Oltrarno, but that is nothing against B&B Bencidormi.  I would love a place with that common outdoor area I was speaking of…I’ve got a while to do some research…I’ll let you know….                                                                                                                                     Assisi, Again, if you are going to Assisi, the location and terrace of Hotel Alexander seem perfect.                                                                                                                                     Vence, As long as church bells, LOUD church bells add to your experience LE2 is ideal.

8 out of 10....not bad!

8 out of 10….not bad!

Best Overall B & B Experience, Il Giardino Dell’Arte

Top Honors go to Franco e Famiglia

Top Honors go to Franco e Famiglia

This is taking EVERYTHING into consideration.  To put into Franco’s words, the time here will “crazy you”.   Bravo e Grazie Mille Franco!!

Is there anything about the B & Bs that I neglected to mention?  If so, send me a comment and I am sure I will have an opinion to share.

Next up, Best Of- Food!

Reflections and Tips

Now that I am home Safe and Sound….I feel the need to slowly acclimate to my own culture again. I guess I basically just want to sit here and continue to let the reality of my experience seep in.
You know how something in the future can feel like such a dream….like it will never really happen, the time will never actually come. It is a bit frightening to me that something in the very recent past can also feel like a dream….did it actually happen….was that really me?

This dream of mine could have never become a reality without the support and understanding of my family. My parents fed it, my husband accepted it, my children were I think kind of proud of me. My sister-in-law, probably unknowingly gave me a last minute pep-talk that I needed at the time. And my friends humored me by letting me share.

I began this blog, truly not knowing what a blog was. I always thought they were self-indulgent and pretentious. And I guess they are, but being able to put my thoughts and experiences down each day was such a needed outlet for me; both then and for the future. Without this daily account, I fear my days would have rushed together into a beautiful, overlapping blur. With this, the tangled knot of words that tumble constantly in my head, became an account. An account that can transport me at will… sort of time travel. Allowing me to revisit places, people, moments. In the future, I will probably be able to see aspects more clearly than I did in the moment. This is pretty special.

I am glad to be home. I am thankful for the 2 nights I just had with my family of four under the same roof. When I would wake up in the night, unsure of where I was, that realization was wonderful.

I started a list (many actually) during the trip of things to do when I return home.
*Low-key entertain more….someone else arrives, go in, grab another table and chairs
*Find a recipe for coccolo, make, eat, repeat
*Keep the ingredients for Aperol Spritz on hand and embrace the Aperitif!
*Write Franco & Grazia
*Seek and enjoy some of the same things I loved in Italy at home
*Contact woman I met that teaches Italian lessons via skype and continue to learn the language
*Make my own pasta…fatta in casa

As promised, here is a shot of all the ephemera I packed out of Italia.

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My dad said it looks like the only paper I left behind were euro. And he’s about right. Remember, I needed a carry on bag for only this.
oh, and these…

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I do think carrying a collapsable, smallish bag is a good travel tip…..

Here are are few more I jotted down.

These are things I always had in my purse….it may seem like a lot, but I can substantiate everything in here.

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Here is my black borsa I referred to often. The brand is Co-Lab by Christopher Kon and it was perfect!! The ONLY thing I would want to change about it is give it a zipper closure instead of a magnet one. But it withstood a lot and still looks brand new.
Inside you will find; Sunglasses, an extra pair of readers, a collapsable water bottle, wipes, tissues, wallet with passport inside, fan (love it), hand sanitizer, lotion stick, Chapstick (albeit Dior), phone, camera, extra charged battery, phone case that is charger in one, small journal, pen, sharpie, gum, advil (not easy to find over there), shout, bandaids, earphones (for audio tours…thanks JP), baggie (don’t laugh…you have some extra yummy bread from somewhere….ya take it with you for later), hair tie, fingernail file and pashmina (visiting churches, cooler evenings, dress you bought that stretches out too low when you sweat…..multi use!)

Here is what I carried in my overnight bag.

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Lovie from Avery, clear folder with files (hotels, tours, trains, etc.), zipper pouch with all chargers and adapters, scissors, extra pair of under garments, go to dress, socks (just incase a room gets cold and you do not have enough covers), deodorant, comb, brush, bath gel, moisturizer (I highly suggest visiting Sephora a couple of times and getting a few samples a sample or two of perfume is a must as well) toothbrush & paste and make-up.

Here is what I slimmed down my makeup regimen to-

20130728-183406.jpg The glasses are there just to show you the size.

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That is all. I researched and bought these in December, never opened them, just tucked them away until the trip.

Other essentials-

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Although all but one of my B&Bs had “hairdryers”, I played it safe and packed my own.

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Here are a few more tips from me regarding packing…
*First and foremost….invest in a good, lightweight suitcase with rubber wheels. The wheels are key, especially on the streets of Italy…investing now will save you grief later.
*Pack early and often. I truly started packing a good 6 months ahead of my trip. I would revisit it every few weeks, add to , take away…I still made mistakes, but they are fewer I am sure due to this.
*If traveling alone, make sure you can handle what you have and still “look” in control.
* As far as clothes go….my main tip is pack and wear what makes you feel good (inside) and fairly comfortable outside. I have always heeded the advice of Billy Crystal’s SNL character Fernando, “It is better to look good than to feel good.” And in Europe, what matters is that YOU think you look good. Because I am here to tell you, ANYTHING GOES!! ANYTHING.
But….here is my 2euros….
*an outfit you wear there, pack away and then wear home is great
* anything too big, will get bigger
* dark and tight show sweat
*dark, sleeveless shows deodorant and if that LBD MVP gets white all under the arms, it loses its appeal.
*light, flowy, prints are best
*Maxis are great day and night
*breezy is good but being caught up by the breeze is not (at least for me)
*although heels are worn, (and Lord knows I love my wedges) I only brought sandals….walking on those uneven, cobblestone streets is a challenge.

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I only wore the fold up flats on the plane to and fro, but it was nice to know I had pair of comfy shoes in reserve. The flip flops are a must for beach and bathrooms. The little white pumas were worn (reluctantly) three times; both bike rides and my aborted hike in Cinque Terre. Thank goodness I did not go with my mental image of the girl on a bike cruising along with flowing skirt and scarf…especially on the 18 mile Tour de Apian Way.
The two pair of sandals were workhorses. Again I suggest investing in good, leather sandals. The Tory Burch pair have rubber soles which was great for hilly towns. The nude pair I probably wore the most. Their thin straps allowed for swelling without discomfort.
*I may have already mentioned this but 1 purse is best. Cross body is essential.
*bring your nail-polish for toenail touchups
*White and flowy is very chic….don’t know if you can have too much white
*I think I have touted the merits of a “Travel Pant” enough
*1-2 mix match swimsuits
*wash cloth….not white
*socks and foot lotion
*packable hat (fedoras look the sharpest)
*packable umbrella
*If you are staying several days someplace and you have room, a couple of plastic hangers…never enough
*a mailing tube for posters, art, etc.
* a couple of sharp, white v-neck t’s
and as for my must have…a polar fleece blanket….forget it….we cut a throw in half for this trip and I will tell you, a 1/2 of a blanket does not a blanket make….and it is a pain to pack.
* if traveling with others (husband, kids) EVERYONE needs to carry their own things…guys should not be timid about man bags….Mom should not be in charge of anyone else’s anything…

Much of this might sound silly but I did a lot of research on line for packing tips and could not find much more than “Be sure to bring athletic or walking shoes”…I don’t think so…..
So some of these tips would have helped me.

Later on this week, I hope to post a Best Of list and photos, but for now I need to go make good on some of those promises I made to myself…

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Buon Appetito Ya’ll!