Roma III

Posted on June 23, 2015 by paigetc

Buongiorno! Major item on our schedule today, Colosseum and Hypogeum (underground) Night Tour…but until then…I’ve got an idea….let’s walk. Andiamo!

As I mentioned yesterday, Campo de Fiori has a market in the mornings. Like most Italian Markets, you can buy just about everything under the sun here.But I like to look at the food!Finding nothing that really worked with camminare e mangiare, I continue my walk until I see a pastaccieria with these in the finestra. They called it “ravioli” and I think they said it was stuffed with a hazelnut filling. I’m in…a powdered sugar covered breakfast sounds just the thing to get this body started.As I walked, I showed passer bys how good my choice was. I didn’t worry about cleaning myself off until the end. At that point, two smartly dressed woman gave me a knowing look and laugh.From Campo de Fiori, it’s a short jig and jog to the other famous piazza, Piazza Navona. Both of these beautiful piazzas hold great memories for me.

Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) is one of my favorite sculptures in Roma. This fountain was designed in 1651 for Pope Innocent X. The rivers represent four major rivers of the four continents through which papal authority had spread: the Nile- Africa, the Danube- Europe, the Ganges- Asia and the Rio de la Plata representing the Americas. Like many of the historic art pieces of Italy, Bernini’s design was selected in competition. The great obelisk was brought to the site by Emperor Caracalla. It had been buried for a long time along the Appian Way.

My plan from here was to head to the Pantheon. Although I have seen it during my 3 other visits, I cannot pass it up.

Remember how I bragged that I was comfortable navigating around the city? Well that all changed as I attempted to locate the Pantheon. It is not far from Piazza Navona, but for the life of me, I just kept getting turned around and turned around. So, although exasperated, I made the most of my walk.

Two ideas to take home in this window. I like the ceramic fish and the style of the painting below.

This piece kinda reminds me of the Chihuly Inspired project my students did 2 years ago. Love this. But I have molto more tazze di caffe to drink to create something like this.

As this guy walks by me with his milk delivery bumping along the cobblestones, I can’t help but think whipped cream will be what arrives instead.

Molto pedi and directions from several locals later, I see this trattoria and know I must be close.

And sure enough. Pretty magnificent no?

Studying Ancient Rome is one of the highlights for me of Art I’s Art History. I would love to be inside when it snows wouldn’t you?

Cruddy photo I know, but this is Raphael Sanzio’s tomb. There is a beautiful quote that accompanies. “Here lies Raphael, by whom Nature feared to be outdone, and when he died, feared that she herself would die.”

Next, The Column of Marcus Aurelius. This spiral relief was completed around 193 AD. The column is made of 28 blocks of Carrara marble and within is a stairway of 200 steps up to the platform at the top.Things I have learned during my visit so far-

1. Do not play your long wooden horn thingy mid morning in a residential area. Earlier today, I heard this guy, I guess it’s called “playing” his horn(?) and approached just in time for a guy 4 stories above to yell down at him. Wanting to just live and let live, the guy got up, looked up, shrugged and went to find another venue…and here he is now.I am sure this is a hoax, but I CANNOT figure these guys out! Ideas?

And as far as sidewalk “painters” go…I have seen the same paintings displayed by many. The more cunning, have out water and paints, brush in hand, “working” as you walk by.

Piazza del Popolo literally means “People’s Square” and was the furthest point of my roaming. See the rose in the foreground…another thing I’ve learned…NEVER give money to people trying to “give/gift” you something. I did my best to avoid this guy, but as you can see there were, amazingly, no crowds to weave through. He shoved 2 roses on me, one for me and the other for my husband, and wished me a happy, happy marriage. I caved and gave him a euro that I had in my pocket…although it was a “gift”, he was not happy with the amount and took one of the roses back. I promptly dropped the other. I knew better than that….maybe hunger was a part of my weakness. With Osteria Gusto around the corner, I think, “perche no?”.

My choices for lunch were perfect. Proscuitto and mozzarella were perfection and of course I needed some melone anche. I enjoyed a glass of Prosecco in my friend Sandy’s honor.

I had planned to order an espresso, as I have a late night tonight, but I at first declined dolce. The waiter gave me such a disappointed look, that for the second time today, I caved. This time, I was not upset with myself.

From Gusto, I walked by the Spanish Steps. I took this photo just to show the crowds out and about. It really is crazy. It makes you think you are at an amusement park, not walking along real streets.I had heard Trevi Fountain was being renovated, but it was on my way. I feel bad for people that miss seeing this iconic fountain in all its grandeur, but I understand that renovation is necessary. Back to the room to clean up a bit and then I headed to Piazza Venezia where I am to meet my tour. I am early (certo) so I sit on the steps of the Victor Emmanuel Monument, watch and wait.

Guess what? There are 5 guys selling “selfie. selfie. selfie.” sticks. An unmarked car drives by and honks. All 5 guys put their inventory behind their backs. The guys in the car, polizia of some sort I’m guessing, just stare at them as they crawl by. When the car is out of sight, out come the sticks in unison. One of the hawkers, goes up to a family, and shoves a stick in their faces. At the same time he is enumerating the fine qualities of his wares. The family goes through the many ways to say “no”. No, No Grazie, No Gracias, No No, Really No. I don’t know who to feel sorry for.

As time for the tour draws nearer, a small group is beginning to form and then 2 leaders appear, one of whom I have seen on the company’s advertising video. The tour company I chose for this one is Walks of Italy. They get very good reviews and not all companies offer this particular tour. We are divided into 2 smaller groups. My group gets “Guido the Guide” for our leader. He introduces himself and says the official name of this tour is “The Colosseum Under the Moon”. He then tells us, “Before-a we-a get-a started. I would-a like-a to show-a you a picture-a of-a my-a cat-a.” Funny.

He tells us a little bit about the area where we are. It is from Guido that I got the information about the guys sitting in Vic’s horse having dinner. He points out Mussolini’s balcony. He says, “We-a cannot-a judge-a history, but…” goes on to tell us what destruction Mussolini caused and what a “nut-a” he was. Let’s not beat around the bush Guido.

We come to a spot I passed earlier. He tells us this is a 4th century condo. He further explains why condos are needed, because there are too many people living in a specific space. He said about that time, Rome had around 1 million residents. The frescoes on the wall were created later in the 13th century.

This statue is a symbol I am familiar with, but during my stay in Roma, I gathered a lot more information (some conflicting) about Romulus and Remus.

Next we stood at the base of the Capitoline Hill. It is one of the 7 hills of Rome and was the citadel of the earliest Romans. I am currently listening to a lecture series (38, 45 minute lectures by a professor at Penn State) covering the history of Ancient Rome and although it is confusing to me at times, it is always fascinating. The Forum has always been one of my favorite spots in Rome. It boggles my mind being able to walk in the footsteps of such history.

Now onto the highlight of the tour, the Flavian Amphitheatre, or as most know it, The Colosseum.

When we entered, we were guided by Francesco, an Art Historian working at the Colosseum. Hearing the historical highlights, I am happy to know we do a great job covering this in Art I. Much of what he shared I was already familiar with, but my main reason for attending was not just to learn more about this iconic building, but to simply be there without all the crowds and be able to enter the hypogeum.

Being one of 40 or so in this massive structure was kinda surreal. Although my photos do not do it justice, the sunsetting behind and through the arches was breathtaking.

And now we go down.

Francesco discusses the architectural and engineering feats of the early Romans. The keystone, he points out, holds these massive stones in place using outward force only. He says how structurally sound this method is…but then adds, “we hope”.Underneath it is dark and quite. The sound of the water dripping brings to mind the Cloaca Maxima, one of the world’s earliest sewage systems, that runs under the Colosseum.

One of the most interesting things I learned was what they have found on site. Just like we eat at the movies and productions, so did the Romans. Dishes, cups, seeds, bones from meats eaten, even toothpicks have been excavated.

During our last few minutes, we were allowed to walk around a bit, soak in the moment and take a few more photos.

Evening views from the balcony of the Colosseum.

After we exit, Guido gives us a little bit more information and then assists anyone needing a restaurant recommendation or a tip on how to get back to their hotel.

I decide to walk around the exterior one last time, then grab a cab back to Trastevere.

It is late but Trastevere is hopping! I walk by several trattorias and the waits are long. I instead decided to go back to the spot where we had pizza last night. However, I walk and walk and walk and just about give up when I notice a girl hurrying by me with sacks and sacks of bread in her arms. Our guide last night told us that most of the restaurants around here get their bread from that forno, so I head the direction she was coming from and there it was.

I told you more research was needed, so I try 3 different kinds. Heading back to my GuestHouse proved to be just as difficult as finding the forno. I am sure people got a kick out of seeing me pass several times carrying my little pizza box. But as long as I can find the Tiber, I can find my way back home.

Buon Appetito!

Roma II

Posted on June 22, 2015 by paigetc

My first full day in Roma began with grabbing a quick Italian breakfast. The guesthouse provides tickets to get a bite to eat and a beverage of choice at a bar around the corner. This was a ritual I loved during my last visit. Unfortunately, this bar is not quite as tasty as the last. On future mornings I will just grab espresso. When Gabby welcomed me to Roma, she highlighted three or so walks around the city. Today I will follow her Red Line. As I pass from Trastevere over Ponte Cestio, I see this sign. To me this is a reminder of what Roma needs to do…clean up their mess! I have accepted the graffiti, this was a surprise in 2007, but just mounds of trash scattered about, I can’t accept in the “ambience” column.

Ponte Cestio is a stone bridge spanning the Tiber to the west of Tiber Island. The original version of this bridge was built around the 1st century BC.

Walking in Rome, you are struck by the sheer number of ancient buildings in such a concentrated area…so bear with me as I share a couple of today’s highlights.

To my left you will see the Teatro di Marcello, Theatre of Marcellus. This was the largest and most important theatre in Rome completed in the late 1st century during the reign of Augustus. The facade would later influence iconic buildings such as the Colosseum.

The project was started by Julius Caesar but completed by his nephew who then dedicated it to his nephew Marcus Claudius Marcellus (did you follow that). The theatre had a capacity between 15 to 20,000 spectators. It originally had two tiers, each with 41 arches (the Colosseum’s have 80). The theatre hosted cultural events such as plays, musical contests and poetry recitals. When the popularity of circuses and gladiator games increased, the theatre fell into disuse. The materials from it was used to building other projects, in particular, the bridge we just crossed, Ponte Cestio.Now we approach the enormous monument honoring Italy’s first king, Victor Emmanuel II. It was built on the slope of the Capitoline Hill, which is the heart of this city. The monument was dedicated in 1911. At the center of the monument is the equestrian statue of Vic himself. If you google “inside the horse of Victor Emmanuel” you will find an old photo of men dining inside. This image gives you an idea of the scale of the horse and the entire monument. There is also a tomb of an unknown soldier below the statue of the goddess Roma. The tomb holds the body chosen from 11 unknown remains by Maria Bergamas, a woman whose only child was killed during World War I. I arrived just in time to see the changing of the guards.

Next we head over to Trajan’s column. This is basically an ancient comic strip sharing the victory of the Roman emperor Trajan over the Dacians. The column stands 126 feet tall.

Trajan’s Market was a sort of shopping mall (also housed administrative offices for Emperor Trajan) for the common Roman, where Trajan’s Forum was reserved for the important and well-to-do. As my Art I students study, Trajan’s Market was built in 100-110 AD by Apollodorus of Damascus.

A Roman Guard headed to the gym.

Now Gabby’s Red Line directed me to continue right, but I cannot wait until the Green Line walk tomorrow to see the next highlight. So I turn left, walk 5 or 6 blocks and am now standing at the site where Julius Caesar was stabbed by members of the Senate. Largo di Torre Argentina is a square in Rome that hosts four Roman temples and the remains of Pompey’s Theatre. What we “know” about Caesar’s death is a mix of several versions, including Shakespeare’s “Et tu, Brute?”. Nevertheless, the lesson here is clear, when you declare yourself “Dictator for Life”, you put a target on your back.

Proving everyone is a student, while I am at this historic site, I hear a guide sharing information about Mark Anthony and Julius, “Mark-a Anthony-s…he-a, as we say-a in Eeetaly-a, he-a sitz-a in-a two chairs-a….He-a has-a one-a face-a to the Senate and-a one-a to-a Cleopatra”. As I always like to eavesdrop on a free history lesson, I look over and recognize “Turtle” from Entourage. Later, Avery tells me she also spies “E” in my stealth (ha) video of the group.

OK, back to the Red Line and on to the Colosseo.

The area around here is CRAZY. I do not think I have ever seen it this crowded. This is when I am glad Blaine is not here. It just takes away from the moment. The crowds, the vendors, the incessant sound of “selfie…selfie….selfie” as the Indians hawk their goods, not to mention the “Beware of pickpockets” announcement, in every language known, blaring over a PA system. As the wind whips up dirt older than dirt into my eyes, I maneuver to get a decent shot, knowing I will be back tomorrow night and move on.

I fold my map into yet another origami masterpiece and head back to Trastevere. On the way I pass the Arch of Constantine and Circus Maximus. Back at the Guest House, I clean up for my Foodie Tour.

As most of you know, I love to cook and I love to eat, so signing up for another Foodie Tour this year was a must. The company I chose was The Roman Guy. The tour, Trastevere “Locals” Food Tour. We were to meet by the fountain outside Palazzo Farnese at 5:30.

Since I tend to arrive early, I took a few minutes to walk around Campo di Fiori (tomorrow’s Green Line walk). At this time of day, there was little left to see but garbage. In the mornings, this piazza is filled with flower and food vendors…you can also find a “selfie…selfie…selfie” stick if ya need.

Avery and I love peonies!

When all in the group (2 from Colorado, 1 from Canada, family of 4 from Houston and me) arrive, our tour begins.

First stop, formaggio! In this piccolo mom and pop, we are allowed into the back where we try an assortment of Pecorino and Parmigiano with Prosecco certo!Next something I would not have tried, Filetti di Baccala. I wouldn’t have thought this fried fish was traditional Roman…or even Italian. But deep fried, salted cod with a glass of vino bianco locale was molto buono. The photo of the guy below reminds me of the look I got from Paola’s son in Sorrento last year when I could not stop laughing as he tied my suitcase to a rope to hoist up to the B&B. He looked at me like, “What…”.

Also, see the blurred guy carrying the pane? Well, they are all in a hurry around this time of the evening, so most of my restaurant workers are blurred.

What is a visit to Roma without some Roman style pizza? La Renella Forno is THE place for it in Trastevere. Our guide chose for us or else the decision would have been molto difficile! (I do return later for further research…certo!)Trastevere is very proud of their foods. Organic, Slow Food and Biological are important terms to look for as you eat your way through.The Street Art scene is not as rich in Roma as in Firenze, but I have noticed a few like this one. Our guide tells us the artist’s inspiration is Michelangelo’s Pieta.Of course, if you layer graffiti…it starts to look pretty cool…(work with me here).

On to TASTEVERE…clever no (finger to eye here)? I think we tasted 4 or 5 different, oh so fresh, samplings here. Lorenzo was kind enough to allow me to photo each before serving. Like all the places we visited, TASTEVERE is very proud of what they are doing with fresh ingredients. On the door you will see a sign that states “0 km”. The streets are starting to fill as we enjoy a bit of exercise between each stop.An item you see on most menus this time of year is the Jewish Style Artichoke. This is my first time to try. They are beautiful. At Trattoria de Teo along with the carciofo, we sample Cacio e Pepe and a pasta with guanciale (pig cheek) and pomodori. A stroll through the Jewish Ghetto is an Anthropology lesson- food, culture and history.These brass threshold plates share the names and dates of Jews taken from their homes, transported to camps like Auschwitz and killed- a sobering reminder.

Our last stop is dolce, certo. We end our tour at a gelateria across the strada from Pompey’s Theatre. Although it is good, it does not compare to Edoardo’s in Firenze…I am spoiled.

All in all the tour was buono. The spots were well chosen, the food, very good and the time, well paced. The main drawback for me, this is my opinion only I am sure, was that our tour leader is British. When I am in Italy, I want to understand, sure…but I want to hear a thick Italian accent. I want the words to roll off their tongues not sound labored and practiced. AND I want tomatoes called pomodori, NOT toMAHtoes….again, I’m sure it’s just me.

Walking back across the Tiber for the 4th or 5th time today, I notice the abandon white tents of day have been magically transformed. Although during the day, I have been nervous to venture down due to the homeless presence but now…the lights call me.

These crate pieces you see here are cozy spots to enjoy a spritz or glass of wine with friends. All along the Tiber there were unique lounges and bars set up.

There were used book and record spots, even arcades. This was, no doubt, the coolest nightlife scene I have ever witnessed.

This tent made me curious. I asked what the purpose was and a young woman told me they were Photography students and this was their project. People were answer the question, “What makes you happy?” on a small chalkboard and then they photographed them. For their final, they will be creating a book of the photographs….Again, an idea I will be taking home.Unfortunately, I didn’t feel this was the place for an older, solo traveler to sit and enjoy a beverage. So after walking the span of a couple of bridges, I made my way to street level again and bid buonanotte to Roma who was obviously just getting started.

Roma I

Posted on June 20, 2015 by paigetc

My train to Roma does not depart until around noon, but I wake up early enough with plenty of time to spare. One never knows what challenges might be placed in front of you.

I start with my last tazza di caffe (I bought this cute little tazza at that Tiger shop. I hope it makes it home in one piece), publish my 60th post to you, take my chiavi off my Florentine chiavi chain, and load up. The Zara bag has my goodies from the pasticceria…and anyway…EVERYONE carries a Zara bag around here.

When I say arrivederci to my appartamento (It has been great! The best location ever!) Guess what…it is raining once again. I feared this, but what’s a girl to do? Adding one more object (umbrella) to my balancing act, I begin my walk to the stazione.

Being quite early for my treno, I find a place to stand to people watch. The people coming into Firenze come in all shapes, sizes, ethnicities, ages and capacities for fashion sense. Ma, we are in luck. It is Fashion Week. If you like to people watch and major in fashionable people watching, may I suggest you schedule your travel around Santa Maria Novella Stazione during this annual event.

My photos DO NOT show what I saw justice. I have not mastered the true art of the discreet photo. I did learn to position yourself near the center of an exit. NONE of the cool people are coming in leaving Florence, I assure you.Here are some fashion tips I gleaned for you: Although girls/women wear every short of Converse with every sort of outfit…not when attending Fashion Week. The Louboutins were out in full force, cobbled stone streets or not. Come to think of it, most of these people probably had cars waiting for them outside the stazione….darn, I didn’t think to look.

Men ALWAYS wear or carry a blazer…a well fitting blazer, and I love this. For men, socks are optional and pants are slim and short. Most men carried a small portfolio…kinda like a clutch. Sunglasses madatory, and either walk with purpose or consult your phone to see where the heck your photographers and models are.

Speaking of photographers and models. The photographers were easy to spot, sensible shoes, scruffy (but well chosen) look and a large bag. The models…they came through with nothing but their tall selves.

I hated to put my camera away. I just knew when I did someone fabulous would rush by. But it was time for me to go to platform 5 and uscita this citta.I entered the train careful of the Italians exiting, cigarette poised in mouth, ready to light when their second foot touches terra.Arrivederci Firenze, a dopo. Ciao Roma!

Roma Termini is 2 miles from Trestevere, so I get a taxi. Passing through the city, it feels oddly familiar.. I know where I am and what is around me as we drive. In front, is the monument to Victor Emmanuel II and behind, the street where my room 2 years ago was.We arrive in the neighborhood of Trastevere and to my strada.. Trastevere is where I took my cooking class with Chef Andrea 1. Staying here is one of the main reasons I am revisiting Roma. To see if can get a more local feel.

I find the building in my small piazza, buzz, enter, walk up the 50+ steps and am greeted by Gabriella.When I enter Trastevere Luxury Guest House, I am very happy. The outside of most of the buildings are ugly, grimy and covered with graffiti. Mine is no exception. But inside, clean, modern and refreshing.

Gabby shows me to my room and shares a few quick things I need to know. For example, you must put your key card in this little slot in order to get power (electric, air, etc.) to your room. It takes me a moment then I realize I cannot charge my electronics when out and about…this is going to take some planning. But the room is fabulous….and they leave me treats in my piccolo fridge.

After I get all situated, Gabby is kind enough to spend time with me acquainting me with the area. She would tell me something, like a trattoria and then bring it up on google maps so I could get a better idea. Although she and Alesseo are not here much of the time, when they are they are very helpful and molto gentile.

As I am hungry, I take Gabby’s advice and not go to the busy trattoria across the street, but instead to the small one to the left. I have my choice of tables so I try out a few to get the best view before I order. I begin with bicchiere di vino bianco locale. The bring it in this piccolo ppitcher. Is that so cute….II think I will ask to buy one before I leave on Sunday.I then order, what I later find out is a local specialty, Cacio e Pepe. I can see why it is a favorite. I will definitely be making this at home. It is simply pasta fatta in casa, pecorino cheese with a bit of pasta water and black pepper.

The sky chooses to open up again and I am seated inside for my fiori di zucca fritti.After a lunch like that, it is time for molto pedi. I head through Trastevere to Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. Before I enter the piazza, the unmistakable sound of a trumpet greets me. I stand for a while, enjoying the moment and his talent. He plays the theme from Rocky. Daddy would LOVE this

I decide to buy the cd to relive and share this moment later. When he gives me change, it burns my hand it is so hot from sitting in the sun. Later I pass the guitarist and he asks me how my day has been.I head towards the Vatican passing by familiar monuments as I roam. I turn a corner and there it is!This year I have no intentions of a visit inside. Which seems to be a good thing. After the rain, the air is hot and humid and the lines are very long. I just reflect of the memories made here with Mom and Jim, Mom and the kids, Papa Francesco and myself, and that is enough.

As I turn to leave, the sky is once again threatening. I am struck by the formation of the clouds. They are perfect for this moment and this place. In The Agony and the Ecstasy (the movie depicting Michelangelo’s experiences while painting the Sistine Chapel) there is a scene where Michelangelo is up in the mountains and receives Divine inspiration for the Creation of Adam among the clouds. The clouds in front of me now, so close to the Sistine Chapel and it’s focal point, resemble Irving Stone’s portrayal. This calendar always makes me laugh. To think, a handsome priest of the month…BTW, this is the same coverguy from 2013.On the walk home, there is no rain (probably because I have carried along a loan umbrella from the Guest House), but there is plenty of wind! The leaves and dirt swirl.

As I walk along the Tiber, I get the feeling I am very near where we (mom, Avery, Dalton and me) stayed in 2007. I cross and find Via Giulia. It is a posh address, but like most of Rome, gritty and dirty.I take a quick right, and my instincts were correct. I find the appartamento were we stayed, complete with Avery’s favorite- graffiti and trash.There are prettier things on Via Giulia, like this bridge designed by Michaelangelo,And one of my favorite fontanas built in 1626.

Heading back to the Guest House, I am not hungry enough for an Italian dinner, so I grab a birra, watch a puppet show in the piazza (the puppet is actually painting!)

and enjoy what’s left from this morning’s snacks.

Moda Martedi

Posted on June 20, 2015 by paigetc

This being my last morning in Firenze ( for a bit) I wanted to get myself organized for tomorrow’s departure. As you can see, my appartamento is beginning to look like home with things placed and stacked here and there. As I am writing a bit, ironing a bit, recharging a bit…the power goes off. Thank goodness Tomaso had warned…no that’s a strong word…Tomaso had mentioned this in passing and showed me what to do in case.

I was to tak-a the smallest-a key-a, go-a outside-a in the hall-a, unlock-a thees leetle brown-a door-a and-a fleep-a the sweetch-a. So still in my pj’s and “morning about the apartamento” self…I attempt to do just-a that-a.

Leetle brown-a door-a…check.Flip-a the sweetch-a….Hhhmmmmm….Am I a “”Bianchi” or a “Bici”? I know he told-a me-a…..So, I stick my head back out the door-, look around and switch both of them….I go back to my appartamento to check and nothing has happened. I try this again, scurrying back and forth each time, starting to geeeet-a beet-a worried now-a.

The room is getting warmer (or is it just me), so I leave the door open and wait for passer bys. I am thinking at least the Biachi or Bici that I am not will come check to see what the heck is going on with their lights. There is a girl that goes by a couple of times, but understands no english. Same with the 2nd guy. At the point of the 3rd woman, I am sure I am looking pitiful. I will say this, I continued to tell myself this could be so much worse. It could be night, it could be tomorrow morning when I am trying to catch my train. Oh, and in the meantime, I tried to email, text and call Alessandro and Tomaso (but the wifi here is not strong enough to accept or send any emails). Anyway, this 3rd tenant, listens to my issue and walks off telling me she will call Alessandro. About 15 minutes later, she returns, walks in the appartamento, opens another leeetle closet and says, “Ah yes (as she is fleeping a different switch). Theees-a appens all the time-a. Een-a Italy, we-a are-a us-a to theeesa”. And with that, my day is back on track.

After packing and cleaning up, I choose to wear my new vestito. I think during Florence Fashion Week, I should wear something from here. Feeling confident, I once again enter the Ferragamo store to sample their perfume. It is another way I think I can support my neighbor, buying the perfume before I leave. After smelling several, I choose my favorite, the woman sprays me down, and I am off again.

Well, I thought I was off. When I stepped out the main door of my building, the shopkeeper across the street was enjoying a melone. With the juices running down his face, I was assured the melone was perfect for eating. So, I buy one for tonight, run back up, set it on my tavola and NOW I’m off again.

More progress for tonight’s party. A shot of me in today’s fashion- Gucci window.

In Mercato Centrale, there is a little shop highlighting some of the products from Eataly. I think mom and dad had mentioned this and I know Jim and Tricia love the one in New York. I am pretty sure I overheard someone mentioned there is a larger Eataly near the Mercato, so I start poking around. Sure enough, right off one of the side streets to the left of the Duomo…I find Eataly. Eataly is, they say, the largest Italian marketplace in the world, comprising a variety of restaurants, food, beverage counters, bakeries, retail items and a cooking school. What’s not to like right? So I enter.

I walk around a bit and find the casual dining area, I am seated at the bar looking over the chef’s prep area. I choose the bruschetta sample plate, a glass of white local and aqua frizzante. My review would be that the food was good…it did not blow me away. I felt like I was eating at the cafe at Nordstrom. It is a good place to know about, no doubt. Especially if you have an appartamento here where you can cook. But I would rather roll the dice and eat from the streets.

Speaking of le strade, they are full of areas being set up for those in the fashion know.

Time for dolce e cafe, no?

Still looking good, even full of cibo.

With all the preparation for parties, I think the Pitti, where I understand much of the festivities are being held, should be pretty spectacular. So I cross the Arno to find it looking like its stodgy self. What a Pitti.Although it is a lovely, breezy day out, ducking into a dark, cool chiesa is always special. This is the Chiesa di San Felice. The church with a single nave was built during the 11th Century. The Renaissance facade was added in 1457. Parts of 13th Century frescoes are still visible on the walls. The large, painted crucifix is attributed to Giotto or his school.

Strolling through this area of Oltrarno, I jot down ideas to take home and places to return to in July during my last days in Italia.

I loved this studio, where no space was safe from embellishment.Knowing I will be hoping a train tomorrow and making the mistake once of grabbing a bite across from the stazione, I enter this pasticceria and buy some things for the rails. I chose some plain cake (the woman indicated it was plain by slapping her hands together like “all gone”, some thin, thin, oily, crispy bread with rosemary on top and a small bag of roasted mandorle salate. These were amazing!During my conversation with Australians Kate and Mark, Osteria Santo Spirito was one of the places that had been recommended to them. Peering into bowls as people ate and a peek into the kitchen sold me. I will return.

Ready to head back and enjoy my melone and left over wine, I look for a place to buy some prosciutto. Since Tamero Pasta Bar, where I ate last night, is across the piazza, I try there. I am told (after minutes of Italian conversation by the waiter, another waiter and the chef) that selling the prosciutto to me by the slice would be very expensice. The chef instead advises me to go to a very nice market right by Ponte Vecchio instead. So I head that way.

Near Ponte Vecchio, I see several bars and enotecas. They are bustling as it is aperitivo time. I go into a piccolo one where I see meats hanging. They sell me 8 slices of prosciutto for less than 2 eruo. When I walk 2 more steps I know see the market the chef was talking about. I enter to see what I missed. Yes, this must be the place. Again, very good to know about. BUT you must not enter too hungry. The lines to check our are crazy. So, my uninformed choice was a good one. Happily I enter my appartamento to the smell of my melone, Mom would die, but it makes me smile. I cut up the entire melone, toast the leftover pana from last night (baggies in your purse come in handy), open my prosciutto from its paper wrapping, take a few of tomorrow’s mandorle salate, pour some olive oil and wine and there…A fabulous dinner!Passing the street set up on my way into the appartamento, the party was just getting started. I decide to throw on a scarf and some sunglasses and walk through the crowd.

I leave you with your special invite.

Giorni di Pioggia e il Luned

Posted on June 19, 2015 by paigetc

The Carpenters sang “Rainy days and Mondays always get me down.” For me, summer Mondays are as good as any other day and as far as rainy days go, I’m more in the Eddie Rabbit camp (I’m sure I lost of few of you there with that reference). Looking out my window, I once again see light rain. I have learned to pack my piccolo ombrello when heading out.

As I head out my porta and down my strada, I notice these scarpe in the Ferragamo finestra and go in to investigate. I’m nervous entering these oh so posh stores. When a well dressed man has to open the door to allow me to entrare, that is a sure sign I should not. But, as I said, these shoes, adorned with paint, caught my occhio.Salvatore Ferragamo designed only one style of shoe for men in his lifetime, and you’re looking at them. Andy Warhol owned a pair and naturally, he painted in them. In 2006, the Ferragamo family bought those paint-specked Warhol shoes at an auction and now create copies available for purchase. I am LOVING them. Perhaps this Halloween I’ll dress as Warhol (last year I was van Gogh, Salvador Dali and Frida the years before). I assure you my scarpe will not be Ferragamo.Now these replicas of The Rainbow Sandal created for Judy Garland, I CAN afford. The upside is I only have to buy one. It is probably the only Ferragamo I will ever own.

With the weather threatening, I stay close to my neighborhood, but cross the ponte. As I do, I see this happy guy painting away. He has his bicicletta set up as an easel and is using a LP record as a palette. You KNOW we will be doing this in studio602! I stood and watched him for a moment. You get different reactions from different “artist”. This guy…welcoming as can be. I don’t even think he expected me to buy something. I admired a cute, silly little painting (he uses a palette knife) of a church and graveyard. He had attached a clear piece of plastic in the shape of a ghost. When I commented on it, he smiled and said, “Eeettaaa eeeesssa justa for funnnaaa. oooooooo-a”. His ghost sound cracked me up!

I know…I’ve got my bridge upside down…

I chose a painted rock with Ponte Vecchio on it…seemed fitting as that most famous ponte was in our sight, the next bridge over. His “studio” was on Ponte Santa Trinita. This original work of art cost 1 euro!!! AND he threw in the ghost painting as a “geeefttaaa”. I bought 2 more rocks after that. You would have thought he just pocketed hundreds of dollars. He was so very tickled. From halfway across the bridge, he was still telling me to have a bella giornata! He had just made it that.After my big purchase I head to the Santo Spirito area. I had understood there was a market near but could not find it. I checked out the menus at the trattoria’s framing the piazza. Tortelli Mugellani (the recipe Anna shared with us…certo!) sounds great, but of course they are not serving now…Well, there is a restaurant on my strada that I have wanted to try…no go either. Most restaurants…good ones at least, serve lunch and dinner only. Aperitivo in between, but I am hungry. With the rain really coming down now, I get a spring in my step when I remember I still have the schiacciata I bought with Costanza. Perfetto. and I have left over chips AND left over wine from a bottle I bought at La Volpe e l’Uva. I turn back around and head for home (all of 10 steps).

Paola and I are to meet at 5:00 in front of the Dante statue at Santa Croce. This is very near her appartamento. The great news here is Paola (with Elisa’s help) has agreed to allow me to leave a small bag of…stuff…with her until I return. I’m not sure how I’ve collected what I have in only 9 days, but this is such a luxury. When I return, I can sort through and decide what I really want to lug home.

Before leaving for Italy, Paola and I had communicated once. Our original plan was to meet together in the morning, visit a market, cook lunch, tour a rose garden and then enjoy dinner together as well. However, the rain has changed our plans quite a bit. At this point we are only meeting for a brief visit. During lunch she texts me advising how to call a cab due to the rain. I tell her I will walk anyway- I will not melt. Not sure how that translates. I walk over in quite a downpour, but I love the sound of Italian thunder. During the walk she has texted me again. This time giving me the exact address of her appartamento. She wishes for me to come there so she does not melt. Negotiating the streets of Italy is molto tricky. When I reach Dante’s statue, I ask a shop owner standing outside (they ALL stand outside) where I might find Via San Giuseppe. He says, “I-a weeelll-a show-a you”. Along our 4 step journey, he adds, “Howww-aa did-a you-a get-a so lucky to have-a found-a me-aa?” Then he point up and says, “We have-a arrived-a.” Moral of the story is the street names change at any given point. Like I said, molto tricky.

The rain has ceased now and Paola comes down to greet me. Kiss/Kiss. Oh and by the way, this is Paola1. We walk up a narrow corridor with many steps. On the way, she stops every once in awhile to tell me something. She has lived here for several years. I think she mentioned she does a four year lease. She is a bit concerned about what will happened at the end of this current lease. Her landlady is 97 years old. Paola’s appartamento is the tiniest one I have visited yet.

Leaning out Paola’s living/office/bedroom gives a view of Santa Croce.

I think we are in the whole of it when she walks back down a couple of narrow steps (I can’t even explain this well. I felt like I was in a storybook) opens another little door, and we enter her separate, piccolo, piccolo cucina.Talk about tidy, organized and cute! This girl knows how to get the most out of her space. On the sill she has a little herb garden and inside she uses fruit boxes as shelves. How clever! (Finger to eye here!)

We sit and talk a bit enjoying succo di mela e biscotti.We then go on a short walk where Paola shares some of her favorite spots. The first was the same cafe bar where Constanza brought me to. It does have a spectacular view of the Duomo’s dome through its large glass finestra.

Our next stop was a very nice grocery. Paola says she visits when she needs a specialty item. She bought a bit of prosciutto while here.We parted ways after she showed me this fabulous art supply store. Paola is not sure if she will be in Florence when I return, but I know we will stay in touch. What a gentle soul she is. Kiss/Kiss, Ciao, Ciao!!

I walk around this amazing story trying not to get too invested. There are so many things I would like to bring back home. When I return in July, I will definitely come back to grab some of these palette knives. I want to use them as cheese knives. (Finger to eye again.)Walking back to my appartamento the skies have cleared and the air is cool and crisp.

I have passed this finestra several times and each time I admire that polka dot dress. This time I decide to go in and try it on. I walk out with a new Florentine dress that I cannot wait to wear.

It is aperitivo time, so I grab my book (a prop at this point) and head back over to Santo Spirito. As I am crossing Ponte Santa Trinita, I look over at Ponte Vecchio and am struck by the amazing light. People just walk past as I capture the bridge in its golden hour….Again, Living Right!

In the photography portion of Art III, I have students take multiple images of an object, person, place or event and then create a montage work of art from the multi images. I took multi images of this scene to create one myself.

When I arrived at the piazza, it was already quite full of people and their spritzs. I hovered near a prime table as the waiter cleared it. Instead of choosing the restaurant I had eyed earlier, I chose Tamero Pasta Bar soley because I liked their thrown together look. Again, good choice Paige!

I start, as one should start in Florence with an Aperol Spritz. The waiter looks at his watch when I order. I noticed people coming out with plates of Happy Hour looking food and I think they were getting ready to stop that service. Not to worry. I wasn’t sure how I would hold my table, watch my borsa AND carry a plate of food out. So I just order from the menu.Sitting out under the trees, listening to conversations, smelling cigarette smoke (ok not so much that part), watching people, feeling the welcome breeze…I am molto felice. I mentioned this last time that it would be wonderful to be sitting with a loved one right now, the evenings are always that way, but would they have enjoyed the day?On this summer evening, I chose Panzanella and this year’s favorite, Prosciutto e Papai. Heaven!!

As with most evening dining experiences in Italia, they do not rush you off. The table is yours for as long as you would like. I decide I will stay until they light the candle on my table. When I do leave, I first go inside to check out the interior. This is a hip, gritty place. The kind I’m sure get rock’n as the night gets later.

When I get ready to exit, I pass the kitchen area. I LOVE the way they have their meats displayed. A guy is working with the prosciutto when I walk by and I ask if I may take a photo. “aahh…si, si…un momento.” And he proceeds to stop what he is doing, replace the prosciutto and turn the other meats to their most photogenic side. Grazie!Although I am leaving the piazza, most are just arriving. Sitting around the fountain or the steps of Santo Spirito makes for a classic Italian notte.Crossing back over Ponte Santa Trinita, I catch Ponte alle Grazie in sunset.

On my last trip, there was the photograph I took of the 3 boys and their dad in the waters of Monterosso. It is a photo I would have loved to share with them. I feel the same way about this one. Snagging one of the points off the side of the ponte seems to be the thing to do in Florence. What a date night!Arriving on my strada, there are signs Fashion Week will be in full swing tomorrow. I am sorry I could not get these guys from the front. Although most Italian men do not wear shorts, especially during the evenings, the guy to the left is an exception. Notice his short sleeve blazer, fitted perfectly over his bare chest. As I said, at 11:00, the night has just begun. Having salad and fruit for dinner (work with me) allows me to enjoy dessert…Edoardo’s again!!?? Perche no?

Cena con Gli Amici

Posted on June 18, 2015 by paigetc

Just like at home, it is nice to have a day every now and then, while on holiday, to sit back and don’t do much of anything. And just like at home, rain can feed and substantiate that urge. This being my settimo day, and Domenica, I declare today a day of rest.

I slept as late as I wanted, disregarding the clip-clop of horse’s hooves down Borgo Santi Apostoli. I know there are carriages passing by weighted down with tourist on their way past the Ferragamo building (a Medieval palace originally built in 1289. From 1860-1870, when Florence was the capital of Italy,i it became the seat of the City Council. In 1938, Salvatore Ferragamo purchased the palace making it the headquarters of his company. During my last stay in Florence, I walked through the store…can you even call it that…and visited the Ferragamo museo below. The exhibit at the time, highlighted his life and career. It was truly one of my favorite experiences. I am told there is a new exhibit detailing the history of this beautiful structure.) and into Piazza di Santa Trinita, but I ignore the call to tourism. I’m not touring, I’m living.

I got up, made cafe and began writing you. The way I felt after all the great food of yesterday, was I would never eat again, but after a morning of only cafe, I grab my 2nd Edoardo’s.

This time zabaione and pistacchio. Amazingly good! And I am not even a gelato/ice cream kinda gal.

There is a window that I have been watching be transformed day by day. Today was the day it was up and running. To really appreciate, you need to see the video.

I am not sure if you can tell or not, but there are fancy, rhinestoned My Little Ponies. I even spotted an elefante in the mix.

I may have mentioned this, but this coming week is Fashion Week in Florence. Merchants are really stepping up their game. The people I pass seem to be even more chic than usual. Case in point…

Fashion Shoot

Louise Roe was getting an early start.

After passing this type of street scene, I was reminded of another. In a window of a local gallery, they were showing photos of the Calcio Fiorentino.Crazy looking, no? If you remember, I could not get tickets and the way they were setting up the Santa Croce area, I’m pretty sure I cannot get a glimpse, but I decide to walk in that direction anyway. Maybe the rain deterred some fans.Nope. All gated off. And these guys don’t look like they are in a negotiating mood. So I walk around in a different direction. At one point, I pass more polizia and then see these guys…I’m kinda frightened at first, remembering what I was told about the players being from prison, but I decide to backtrack a bit and ask them for a photo….mak’n amici everywhere! Roaming has given me an appetite and several of the places I considered are closed on Sunday. I am meeting Paola, Elisa, Angela and a few of Paola’s friends later tonight for a glass of wine, but I still have plenty of time to spare. I decided to go with what I know.

Passing some more cool street art on the way…

Can’t remember if I have seen this already or not.

For something new and…different…

I wind my way back Oltrarno to La Volpe e l’Uva for a glass of wine and one of my favorite crostinis from the other night. I asked for the same wine, showing a photo I took to be clear, and cuz I’m living right, they had 1 bicchiere left. Perfetto!

I bring along a book to read but strike up a conversation with a couple from Australia instead. (Way better making my own story than reading someone else’s.) They had just arrived in Florence and were told if they went to one enoteca, it needed to be this one. They said they were forever indebted to that friend. We shared some traveling notes and suggestions. I’m wanting to check out one of their recommendations, Osteria Santo Spirito, and I told them Al Pozzo was a MUST while they were in Cinque Terre. Some of the nicest tourist I met last visit were from Australia and Mark and Kate fit nicely in that category.

When I looked at the time, I realized it was time to run by the appartamento, ditch my book (that I have yet to crack), and head over to Via dei Neri where I am meeting le ragazze.As I have mentioned many times, I LOVE, LOVE the way life spills into the streets of Firenze. After my last visit, I swore I would entertain more and drag our furniture to the street just for the fun of it. Someone hold me to that this year!

When I walk up, Angela and Elisa are waiting. Kiss/Kiss, Kiss/Kiss then Paola arrives, Kiss/Kiss. We chat just for a moment, then Paola tells us her two other friends are waiting at an appartamento just down the street. Andiamo!

As with many places, there is a climb involved.

But when we arrive, it is worth it! This was the greatest space! I kept thinking all I could do with it. Paola2, Paola1’s friend, is currently living here but is moving out within the week. hhhmmm……

Paola2 works for a university, (the university?) here finding appartamentos and rooms for exchange students. What a great gal to know. I think Dalton should head over soon!As if the view from the huge, open windows are not enough, walk up some more steps and you have a terrazzo. Again…Oh What I Could Do With This…and if I got stumped, I’m sure Costanza’s mum could lend a hand.The girls have prepared a wonderful, fresh summer dinner. We toast to meeting new people and the kindness of strangers.

Cin Cin!! Paola2 and Cinzia

As has been the norm, table conversation is lively. We all talk about our where we are from, traditions, cultures, popular cocktails and foods. When I talked about Margaritas they said, “Oh, Boom Boom something or another…” I wish I could remember, I think Avery would get a kick out of that. At one point, they were naming some of the dishes we were enjoying and I asked if there were fennel in one, “Mmmaayybee-a” Paola2 slowly answered. This cracked me up. It was like, sure whatever you say lady. She laughed too. It is a good response to have handy…it fits just about anywhere.

When it was time to say Buonanotte, Elisa and Paola1 presented me with a gift. A gift for me…after all they have done. When I opened it, I found the greatest, little coffee table book illustrating and defining common italian sign language. This had been a fun table topic with Luigi, Elisa’s father. I had noticed he often put his finger to his eye when he spoke. Later in the evening I asked what that meant. At first he seemed to not even realize he was doing this gesture (along with others), then he laughed and explain-a to me-a. It is the italian sign language for “clever”, although sometimes I think Luigi used it in a sarcastic way.

I found this gift so touching. It is THE PERFECT gift. It is SO ME and the girls have only known me for a breve, breve time. Am I so very fortunate. How is it some people just click.During the evening, we discussed this adventure I am on- how I found Elisa and what all she has shared with me. They said, for them, I do not fit the American stereotype, their idea is American woman need things planned out and just so. They said they thought I was very brave. I asked, “Brave or stupido?” After laughing quite a bit, they agreed- Brave.

	Layne on Mia Figlia e la Mia Città
	Carolyn moore on Cibo e Arte…Ancora…
	Carolyn moore on Cibo e Arte…Ancora…
	Sheryl on Mia Figlia e la Mia Città
	paigetc on Mia Figlia e la Mia Città

Girl in Roam

/rōm/ verb 1. to move about or travel 2. to go from place to place 3. to range or wander

Tag Archives: Solo Travel in Italy