During my stay in Monterosso, I never unpacked, so repacking was pretty easy. Last evening, I decided to purchase an earlier treno to La Spezia. My connection there was only 10 minutes and that makes me a bit nervous. So instead of spending the morning on the terrazzo, I will make a quick exit and spend my time at the La Spezia stazione. Not apples and apples I assure you.
Checking out at Hotel Margherita, the desk girl was her rude self. I usually try to consider that a person might be having a bad day, but the due desk girls this year are the same due desk girls as two years ago…so, I think it’s them. She would rather twirl her hair and look at her computer monitor than clarify the treno schedule.
Although I like the location of Hotel Margherita and I LOVE the terrazzo, between the maddening internet connections (and reconnections and reconnections and reconnections and….you get the idea. If I had a euro for every time I had to reconnect, I could buy this place and have all hire my congenial friends…who’s in?) and having to put out the desk girls, I might research a different place for a return trip. In the hotel’s defense, the manager/owner is very attentive and kind. My assumption is that the majority of the staff here are family.
But another point in the + column is it is down the ramp and due steps to the sinistra to the focacceria. I grab a couple plain pieces for the treno.Joining the roller bag group heading out, I dodge the roller bag group heading in. When stopping to take this parting shot of la spiaggia, I hear a girl declare, “THIS is what heaven looks like.”For those of you who followed in 2013, I know this very similar to my “National Geographic” shot then. Sorry…it’s hard to take a bad photo here. The water is especially clear today…certo.I board the treno to La Spezia, standing in the baggage area for the 15 minute journey. I intend to say Arrivederci to the sea at the last Cinque Terre stop, Riomaggiore, but my carriage was stops in the tunnel, so this shot through the grimy glass will have to do.
Two couples board the train in Vernazza. They stand in the baggage section as well. They are German. When the ticket guy comes around to check our validations, theirs are not validated. Remember a tip I gave you from the last trip…ALWAYS validate your ticket. Even if no one has checked your tickets in your last tre treno rides…ALWAYS validate.
This shot shows his weariness from listening to every excuse under the sun, in every language under the sun. He is SO not interested. Each of the quattro try their hand at an explanation. He keeps the same look and the same posture. He points to the sign that says there is a 50 euro fine, but tells them he is charging them 5 euro each. They finally pay. When he leaves, although I don’t understand German, I am sure they are talking about him. And I’m thinking “ya,ya, ya” and chicken sounds can’t be a compliment. I arrive in La Spezia and wait.Oh, have I shown you my new charm from Storie in Italy? I got mom one too. It is the window at Chiese di San Giovanni Battista. Bella no? It adds a bit more jingle to my jangle.
I arrive in my connecting stazione of Viareggio. Boarding here to Lucca seems the most hectic yet. People hesitate to board. People hop off once they have hopped on. Everyone is asking someone. I realize all it takes is for one person to say, “Si Lucca” and we all end up somewhere else.
A woman in a Trenitalia jacket walks by. She is on the phone and gives me the universal signal of “NOT NOW” when I lean out the carriage. I blurt out “Lucca?” anyway and she give me an almost imperceptible nod. That’s going to have to be good enough for me.Arriving in Lucca, I walk out of the treno stazione and make a decision not to grab a taxi. WIth no mappa, and no prior knowledge of the town…how hard can it be? Oh silly Paj!
I cross a couple of streets and head towards the wall surrounding the old city. I seem to remember my hotel is inside the wall. As I approach the wall, it curves and from a distance, looks like it deadends. Then I see a girl stoop and go through a small opening. I feel like Alice in Wonderland. I follow. That leads me to a tunnel…you might remember, I’m not a fan of tunnels…through a small courtyard, up a couple short staircases that zig-zag.
And I arrive atop the wall. Now, destra or sinistra? A girl passes me dragging her roller bag along and asks if I need her to look up my hotel on her phone. How kind. She does, and it says to head straight. After she heads left, I decide I’ll head that way too. I’d rather have an overall view from the wall, than get in the mix of the buildings just yet….Anyway, straight over the edge of the wall is not an option I’m entertaining… at this point. Around the wall I go, note a little trattoria I might want to come back to, and then approach a gelato vendor for guidance. Through his very italian directions, I do get “canale” and his arm pointing forward and forward then “grande statua”. So I head straight looking for the large statue.
Straight along the canale, by the family of anatra, past where the lady lives that likes pink, and sure enough, there is a grande statua. Sinistra there. I wind around a bit, ask a few more locals, consult my italian phone (by the way, every time I try to use google maps, it closes down) and there…it’s that easy. B&B Anfiteatro.I told you I had not researched Lucca at all. Well I had found out there were Puccini music festivals here and have a ticket reserved for tonight…but that is ALL.
The owner of the B&B marked the ticket office for the concert for me on a mappa. While I am waiting to be checked in, I also grab a leaflet for a night tour of Lucca. They are offered Thursday and Saturday nights…today is Saturday right? I think if it works into my plans, I will pay the 10 euro to get acclimated a bit. The concert is scheduled for 7:15 and suppose to last about an hour. The tour meets at 9:00 in front of one of the major chiesas. That might just work out.
On my way to the Puccini ticket office, there is plenty to look at…although I don’t know what any of it is…
I pay 18 euro for the Puccini biglietto and find a spot to wait. I order a spritz and watch and listen for the next 45 minutes.
I arrive at the concert one of the first 10 or so. I choose a spot in the front. Within minutes the church it is held in is full. We are given a program which includes bits of operas from other composers along with Puccini. Lucca is Puccini’s birthplace. But from the information, it sounds like his success was not welcome here for years.
First the pianist enters from behind the panels, then the first of the due tenors we will be hearing. The acoustics in this small chiesa are amazing. The strength of the performers’ voices doesn’t hurt. The following video is poor visual quality. I think photo were allowed, but most people were trying to be discreet. This was the encore of the evening.
This was a special experience. I suggest working a concert in if you are visiting Lucca. They perform every evening of the year.
Now for some cibo. I have not eaten since my torta this morning. Earlier I passed this pizzeria and there was quite a crowd. I have learned that crowds indicate good food…most of the time. So with 30 or so minutes before the night tour begins, I pop in. I tell the older woman behind the counter, “Due pr favore.” Luckily she did not ask “due what?”, because I do not know the italian equivalent to “Whatever”.
She hands over two piping hot pieces of margherita on a little silver tray, I add a piccolo Moretti to my bill and it comes to under 5 euro…my kind of place! I sit on a stool in front and enjoy.
I look at the time and it is 5 til 9:00. I walk around to the front of the church to see if I see anyone congragating. My plan is to ask if it is not too late for me to pay and join those who have reserved. I’m still not 100% dedicated to the idea. I do not know the area well enough to find my way back to the B&B in the dark, so that is a question I will need to ask as well.
When I arrive there are about 7 or so women standing near a woman with a little guide sign. I walk up and ask if I might join. The very friendly guide tells me, “certo”. I then ask the 2nd question of where the tour ends. She tells me they end at the Anfiteatro…perfetto!
Then, the really lucky news comes. I am the only english speaking member so the others will go with another guide and I get this one all to myself. Another great decision Paige!
My guide’s name is Ilaria (Hilary in English). She is a middle school English teacher and part time guide. Our first stop is to find a restroom. She takes me into this way cool enoteca. They are kind enough to allow me to use the facilities and take a couple of photos. I will definitely return here during my stay.
During our “tour” Ilaria and I basically just walk and talk. To tell you the truth, I don’t remember much about Lucca. I do know one of their symbols is the tower with the trees growing atop it. Also, there is this symbol by one of the churches. It was a reminder to the merchants and bankers that use to deal here to keep a straight, honest path.
This, Ilaria says is a version of the Volto Santo or Holy Face of Lucca. There were several of these decorating a medieval wooden door.
Ilaria also pointed out a few places I might want to eat and recommended some of Lucca’s traditional foods. Our entire walk, I kept telling her how lucky I was to have this private tour. She said it was nice for her as well. I did consider she might be missing out on tips from a larger group, so I made sure to share my appreciation in euros. At the end of the tour, Ilaria deposited me at the door of by B&B and bid me a buonanotte.